That would be great... I use my Hudy setup and set the car on the 0 blocks. I would also say to anyone, make very sure that you arms move freely, I had one side with a very slight bind, just needed to give a touch with a reaming tool or drill bit to make sure that the arms moved freely.

What I do is set my car on the hudy station, like I'm going to set the droop, and with a caliper I raise the one side watching the other until it moves, then do the same to the other side, until I get the same reading on the calipers for both sides.

The turning the car upside down as described by Rick is something I will give a try, it sounds very interesting and simpler.

My order on the setup is:
After checking the car for any tweak (does it sit flat on the board? If not get the tweak out.)
1. Droop
2. Sway bar setup
Attached the shocks
3. Camber
4. Toe
Load the car to race weight
Put on the tires
5. set ride height
Install the front bumper (I remove the front bumper to set the ride Height).

Here are my babies:

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7669/dsc00841ak.jpg

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And the collars front and rear

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8515/dsc00843bt.jpg

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http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3475/dsc00842wn.jpg

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I did the same thing... Place collars on the bar just like you.

if others want to do this, make sure the collars are not too wide, it just fits with the diff gear and you do not want them touching.

I'm looking for a gear diff. The only one I see that may be compatible is the yokomo bd5 gear diff from spec-r. Would this work for both front and rear using the stock axles.

Yup, minor mods required. Take about 1mm off the long side diff housing bearing shoulder to fit the diff between the TC6 bulkeheads, dremel the outdrive cups to fit the larger drive shafts and voila. About 10 minutes for the whole process. Or... wait for the AE version, it's gonna be great!

I think I'd rather wait for the proper one to fit. I don't like making modifications and then it won't come out right. That sounds like too much work.

Yeah, I just modded my first one for the rear, but I modded the dogbone. It fits really well but my issue is the blades. They spread in the outdrive when power is applied. I've tried the Yoke blades and Associated ones and they both do it. Just wondering what to try next.....:confused::confused:

Jaybee, put a silvercan in...problem solved.:p

I am fitting a Sakura zero gear diff to mine, waiting on 40t gear to arrive, have made this changes so far, sounds a bit much but it fits nicely.

Changed plastic gears with xRay NT1 metal ones
Changed outdrives with short Kyosho RRR V1, Sakura's are too small.
Use the supplied ball bearings, they are plenty shims in Sakura's set to fit the width, the kit is cheap, I had the Kyosho outdrive and I bought the NT1 gears.

The gear is on the way and should land this week, so as soon as it arrive I will finish it and try it.

Mr Fit: You can fit front and/or rear as they are the same size.

my car runs ok on throttle, but it pushes a lot off throttle, is kick up the answer? my car is currently running zero kickup and silve spring in the front....

Shock oil? rear spring? caster blocks? toe?

Yokomo blades are soft, some BD5 guys are running "white blades". Read back a few pages in the BD5 thread, not sure who makes them but, I guess they're lasting a lot longer.

Kick up could help but, 1st maybe try:
- more rear droop
- softer front spring
- lighter shock oil

Make sure there's nothing binding in the suspension/steering.

Redrill by dremel only diff outdrives!

I made that AE axle fit outdrives and there is no problems with blades ;)

Don't cutt ae dog bone, it is wrong! Pin from dogbone will go off ;)


;)