zanernator

im looking at a car and can i put rubber tires on a foam spec car? i race off-road so not new to rc just on-road

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

It's perfectly smooth, even when you turn the wheels just a bit. Anything beyond that and it sounds terrible. I made a vid, and will host and post it tomorrow. Then you guys can see.

I started to think the drive belt was hitting the steering somehow, but it isn't. It just chatters badly when the CVDs are deflected far enough. Limiting the throw would make it impossible to navigate the track I race on.

I don't see why not. The primary difference seems to be the stiffness of the chassis. Try it.

PDX-Spike

Onroad 1/10th sedans chassis' have hex adaptors that fit both rubber and foam tire wheels.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Usually the difference between foam and rubber spec chassis are the overall stiffness, springs, and diff options, most foam cars run dual diffs, most rubber run one diff and a spool or one-way. You can mount either tire on either car. If you run high traction carpet tracks many use the foam chassis to help the car not traction roll.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Here's a vid of the issue. I still need to take it apart and confirm the CVDs are free:

+ YouTube Video

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Are you 100% sure its not rubbing on the spring perch of the shock? if its not, that's still about the point you'd start to hear chatter, I'm not saying that you can't make it better.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

After watching the video.. id be surprised if loctite was your issue.... when loctite contamonates your driveshaft grease, the chatter is 10x worse than that... the whole front end of the car shakes. What you are seeing there wont affect performance on the track... but checking "Free wobble" of your driveshafts out of the car would still be a good thing to look at.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I just looked again, and nothing is touching anywhere. I guess that's just the nature of this beast. I wonder if it'd still happen with a one way up front... Oh well, if I can't get this thing to drive my way, I'll get a one way. [shrugs shoulders]

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

I thought the one-way was a joke, a one-way is NOT your answer, a diff up front would be much better.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Well, I've driven all three types of diffs(not all in the same car) and of the three, my favorite is the one way. I run faster with my old Pro 4 than I do with my brand new T2R. The Pro 4 turns in SO MUCH BETTER that I feel like I'm gonna take a nap waiting for the T2R to finally turn in. It's also loose on power, making it very frustrating to try and be fast with it.

We have a race coming up in about a week. I plan to spend the day deep in my setup book, and try everything. I don't want to just give up and spend $70 if I don't need to. The problem is, if I stick to the spool, and get the setup to where I'm happy, it'll still be a significantly different driving style than my other cars. I have a hard time going back and forth on the same race day. I get used to one, and when I swap, it's like I forgot how to drive. Going from the M18 to the Pro 4 seems easy, even with the big difference in size. Going from either of those cars to the T2R is a headache, very frustrating.

sammies

iTrader: (1)

Have u looked here? http://nexusracing.net/newsdesk_info...6db93d961b4222

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Yep.. there is a great little piece in that artical on reducing chatter in the factory drive shafts... youll need a dremel.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

WOW! Great info there, thank you! Looks like a 5 degree improvement is the best I can hope for with a spool. I'll give it one more good try, then I'm switching to something that I know works.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Take out these screws

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

This would give me more Flex, which = more traction, thus increased turn in?