2LikesLosi XXX-S
03-29-2004, 09:18 AM
#9572
Originally posted by EddieO
While a ballstud would work ok, they are just nromal threads, not special cutting threads like you find on a tap or the tapping screw.
Try KThobbies.com .....pretty good prices on losi stuff.
Later EddieO
While a ballstud would work ok, they are just nromal threads, not special cutting threads like you find on a tap or the tapping screw.
Try KThobbies.com .....pretty good prices on losi stuff.
Later EddieO
03-29-2004, 09:18 AM
#9573
Tech Regular
Another great option for thrust bearings is Traxxas they have the same part you will get from McMaster Carr. It sells for $10 and can be had at any good LHS that carries Traxxas. I have used both with great succes.
Chad
Chad
03-29-2004, 09:26 AM
#9574
I was too lazy to look up the traxxas part number........by the way Chad, my Ruby diff balls didn't work.....they were SUPER smooth, but when we made the diff slip, they cracked. I guess while they are VERY hard, they have POOR sheer properties.....good news is, I have plenty left to make my wife some Jewelry! The new ceramics I have are just as smooth and ROCK hard.
Sounds like a cheap tap.....one thing I have found is that you get what you pay for in tap sets. I paid way to much for mine, but it sizes holes perfect. The good news is you can buy a quality tap in just the size you need.
Later EddieO
Sounds like a cheap tap.....one thing I have found is that you get what you pay for in tap sets. I paid way to much for mine, but it sizes holes perfect. The good news is you can buy a quality tap in just the size you need.
Later EddieO
03-29-2004, 09:40 AM
#9576
Tech Regular
Randman- What kind of screws are you using? Some of the aluminum and less expensive TI screws are not dimensionaly correct (under-sized). That may be the reason for the problems after tapping. I only use Lunsford Ti screws and tap all holes with a Craftsman tap and the screws are still an the over tight side when going in the first couple of times. Another thing some people do incorrectly is run the tap in to far and the tap bottoms out on the hole then strips the hole out, since you have milling experiance I don't think you are doing that.
Chad
Eddie the rubies sounded to good to be true. I will have to get some stuff from you when I rebuild my car for out door next month after the rap up race at RC/Plus the end of Aprill. Yes it will get a new chassis, 2 1/2 years in a long run for a chassis.
Chad
Eddie the rubies sounded to good to be true. I will have to get some stuff from you when I rebuild my car for out door next month after the rap up race at RC/Plus the end of Aprill. Yes it will get a new chassis, 2 1/2 years in a long run for a chassis.
03-29-2004, 10:00 AM
#9578
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by Randman
I've tried a tap in the past and found it left the holes oversized and a bit sloppy. When I applied even a small amount of pressure to the screws, the holes stripped... I just use a steel cap head screw for each hole, throw it away after 1 hole.
I've tried a tap in the past and found it left the holes oversized and a bit sloppy. When I applied even a small amount of pressure to the screws, the holes stripped... I just use a steel cap head screw for each hole, throw it away after 1 hole.
A wobbling tap will cause the hole to be WAY over sized.
03-29-2004, 11:51 AM
#9580
Originally posted by ChadK
Another great option for thrust bearings is Traxxas they have the same part you will get from McMaster Carr. It sells for $10 and can be had at any good LHS that carries Traxxas. I have used both with great succes.
Chad
Another great option for thrust bearings is Traxxas they have the same part you will get from McMaster Carr. It sells for $10 and can be had at any good LHS that carries Traxxas. I have used both with great succes.
Chad
E
03-29-2004, 12:13 PM
#9581
Just get the one from mccmaster carr....The few traxxas ones I got had bends in the race with the bearings....not sure if it happened in shipping or what......my guess is its being shipped from the company, to traxxas, then to horizon....then to the LHS....way to many hands on it. Its the same part though....
Your LHS might have it in stock....
Later EddieO
Your LHS might have it in stock....
Later EddieO
03-29-2004, 12:14 PM
#9582
Hey all ...back from the Nationals... got my car working VERY well... I'll post my setup here if anyone would like it....
03-29-2004, 12:15 PM
#9583
TRA2729 though if you want it (thats the horizon part number).....
Later EddieO
Later EddieO
03-29-2004, 12:46 PM
#9585
Front End:
Arms Std Forward
Losi Low RC blocks
0F block in Low RC holes (for approx 2'-3' anti-dive)
6' Castor blocks
low profile ballstud on castor block
Camberlink up and between 2 & 3 on the shock tower
Ackerman Flipped and forward
1' Camber
0' toe in
0.080" Sway Bar
Shock Position #3
Standard 56s w/ 45 wt Losi
0.060" limiting inside the shock
0.180" limiting outside the shock
Trinity Purple Congo Springs
Droop set to 2 on the losi guage from the set screw boss
4.25 mm ride height
Rear End
Arms Back
1' toe in blocks backwards (offset)
1-A Camberlink w/ short ballstud on hub carrier
0.050" sway bar
1' camber
Shock position #3 and outside on the arm
Standard 56's w/ 45 wt losi
0.060" limiting inside the shock
0.120" lmiting outside the shock
Trinity Blue Congo springs
Droop set to 6 on the arm under the ouside hingepin hole
4.25 mm ride height
Misc:
Batteries Forward
TRC Marble Fronts 57.5 mm
TRC Magenta Rears 57.5 mm
Parma Alfa Body
Geared 31/128 w/ "monster" handout
I'm sure I must have forgotten something in there... if I think of anything I'll edit it or feel free to ask me your questions.....
Arms Std Forward
Losi Low RC blocks
0F block in Low RC holes (for approx 2'-3' anti-dive)
6' Castor blocks
low profile ballstud on castor block
Camberlink up and between 2 & 3 on the shock tower
Ackerman Flipped and forward
1' Camber
0' toe in
0.080" Sway Bar
Shock Position #3
Standard 56s w/ 45 wt Losi
0.060" limiting inside the shock
0.180" limiting outside the shock
Trinity Purple Congo Springs
Droop set to 2 on the losi guage from the set screw boss
4.25 mm ride height
Rear End
Arms Back
1' toe in blocks backwards (offset)
1-A Camberlink w/ short ballstud on hub carrier
0.050" sway bar
1' camber
Shock position #3 and outside on the arm
Standard 56's w/ 45 wt losi
0.060" limiting inside the shock
0.120" lmiting outside the shock
Trinity Blue Congo springs
Droop set to 6 on the arm under the ouside hingepin hole
4.25 mm ride height
Misc:
Batteries Forward
TRC Marble Fronts 57.5 mm
TRC Magenta Rears 57.5 mm
Parma Alfa Body
Geared 31/128 w/ "monster" handout
I'm sure I must have forgotten something in there... if I think of anything I'll edit it or feel free to ask me your questions.....