yodace

iTrader: (8)

I have forgotten. What is the size for the small turnbuckles? Could any of you tell me> sorry.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I have the BRP front bumper and my breakage hasn't happened since but I am looking into getting aluminum carriers front and rear. I am however looking for blue ones, I know a guy on ebay selling some that are made I think by CML? anyone have experience with these? they are the only ones that are in blue (which I prefer, not big on red).

Also, any know which is better, the Lunsford turnbuckles are the ones made by associated? if I go with lunsford, which RPM ball cups should I use? (I heard they have a super duty set out, will that work with the stock ball studs or should i just go withthe regular cups?)

Cain

iTrader: (294)

did losi make street weapon threaded shocks? if so what is the part # and will they work on the XXX-S? I want threaded shocks all around. if you know of some good ones let me know? (like Associateds, etc)

newracer

Losi 5052 .28 Short shock body & nuts
Losi 5053 .36 Shock body & nuts
Losi 5081 .28 Shock Body with Titanium Shafts & nuts

Doug Gaut

How flat is the chassis supposed to be out of the package? Do they have a slight raise from the center channel to the outer edge but totally flat from front to rear? Should the area at the front and the rear where the four screw holes are be totally flat? The reason I ask is because I have been getting some weird handling issues and just wondered if my chassis is tweaked?

Doug

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

i've looked close at 3 plastic chassis and 2 graphite. the 3 plastic ones had a slight raise going out. the graphite ones sat slightly flater but neight were perfect.

Doug Gaut

My graphite one has a problem front to rear, the rear has a rise to it. (bowed) If you press on the rear bulkhead the left side hits first and then the right side. The car has been handling very inconsistantly and when you put it on a MIP tweak station the right rear needs to have more spring rate put into it than the left side. Granted the gap between the chassis and the table is less than .010 but can this much be a cause of ill handling?

ROLLINGaFTGT

iTrader: (5)

wow, that's a trip i havent had any problem with my graphite chassie being bowed or anyting like that. i think that losi has real tight toleriences. this has to be the most constent car i have driven. the yokomo would tweek and start to wonder after a bump and would break on a hit. the tc3 was fast but turned like a square not an ark. the losi can take a hit, run straight and have the same handling from the start of the race to the end. i was an import rc car fan kyosho,tamiya but this losi has changed my mind on how a touring car should drive. i have always run a one way so im not sure how a car handles with a diff but i love the car and how it drives.

Doug Gaut

Please dont take my comments as complaints. The car has been great and treated me real well. Its just that after 10 months of hard racing everything gets worn to an extent and I am just wondering if it is time for a new chassis to get the consistant handling back or maybe the problem lies elsewhere. Thanks for the replies.

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

after 10 months, shit happens. why not try a new chassis? or just add a little weight to the LR corner

bumpity3xs

hey ive had my xxx-s for a lil bit now and use to have a yokomo mr4tcs and i dono which 1 i like more i like them both but i sold my yok to get the xxxs.


-yes it does push in the rear
-dont get the graphite chassie
-use the composite dogbones off of the sport tc3 and use the little white spaces off of the tcs and find the longer pins to put in them you need the plastic spaces on the poles so it fits right but this will cut off tones of weight. you will not need enything else to make it highter maybe sme alluminum skrews but thats it.


trust me the graphite is over rated and a waist of money i race in sportsmen at the track the kenwald races at, believeme me it is all pointless and dosent save as much wieght as the the tc3 dogbones(composite) and stop drillin frickin holes i your chassie , god dam lol waist of time i will whoop you and i have no holes o ya 1 last thing, take out the center piece on the bottom dont use that and dont use the plastic , all the dirt will pass through easily so it wont get dirty. im sorry but ppl think they need to spent allot of money to do this stuff ... its not like that, i may be only 14 but i got skills and you can trust me.


peace out yall


p.s. if enybody here races at so cal and if they have heard of bumpitybump thats me so talk to me on my AIM s/n mats8ergt or get me at my e mail [email protected]


later peace im out

ZER01

Well all my XXXS racers I tried a new modification for the front shocks and it's working better than my last modification to the front shocks. I'm running .28 shock shafts with half the threads cutoff and the .36 shock bodies. I also had to modify the shock shaft eyelet to gain some uptravel. Before I was using internal limiters to acquire my droop but now I'm using the droop screws and it's holding up well. With the new mod you'll see the piston sitting more in the shock oil.

ZER01

bumpity, whats wrong with the Losi aluminum dogbones? As far as weight, my outta the box stock car weighed 56. someodd ounces and now with all the graphite it weighs 54.1 oz's. I beleive weight is a strong issue especially in the stock class.

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

bumpity, for the mods you have made and the mods i have made, our weights are about the same. butt in a wreck, my car will survive, yours wont

ZER01

bumpity, wait! Kinwald drills holes in his chassis-why can't we? Also, if you run on outdoor tracks I suggest running your drivetrain sealed.