220LikesTamiya FF03
03-10-2012, 05:56 PM
#2416
I think the Pro version is the better value. Upgrades that I recommend are;
- sway bars #54230
- alloy servo mounts (TB03 items)
- Carbon steering link #54261
- Alum spur gear adapter #54234
- Carbon rear damper stay #54258
- Carbon rear stiffener #54264
- Set of CVD (need several parts)
- sway bars #54230
- alloy servo mounts (TB03 items)
- Carbon steering link #54261
- Alum spur gear adapter #54234
- Carbon rear damper stay #54258
- Carbon rear stiffener #54264
- Set of CVD (need several parts)
03-11-2012, 01:23 AM
#2417
Tech Rookie
Thanks mate. Could I also ask what fwd bodies are availiable to fit the FF03 chassis?
Cheers
Cheers
03-11-2012, 05:52 PM
#2418
Depending on your track
Short technical track use the new honda civic
Longer track use the Beams Acura
The new Sirocco I haven't tested yet
Short technical track use the new honda civic
Longer track use the Beams Acura
The new Sirocco I haven't tested yet
03-11-2012, 11:21 PM
#2419
The new Sirrocco is better than the Beams Integra. Nearly all FWD cars at the recent TITC event in Thailand had the Sirrocco shell fitted. Initially most had the Beams fitted however by the second day the Sirrocco body shell was fitted to most cars because of its better handling on the RC Addict track. This track was high grip and super smooth. Ride heights were much lower than what we run at home. Tyres used were the Ride TITC handouts for the event.
Gives more steering and great traction.
later,
Calvin.
Gives more steering and great traction.
later,
Calvin.
03-12-2012, 05:04 PM
#2421
So I got to test my FF03 out with the VTA cars at my local club last night. This thing is so fun to drive. I'll be able to keep up as soon as I find a fast silvercan to throw in and I gear it up, and mount a fan as I have seen in pictures.
three questions,
1. Is it normal to have a lot of wobble in the spur gear? I built to instructions but the whole spur gear assembly seems loose. It didn't effect it much but it seems odd.
2. What are the best CVDs for the price available for this car? Can you provide a link to where you purchased them please?
3. What is the best diff available? The plastic outdrives that it came with are not going to last long I'm sure.
three questions,
1. Is it normal to have a lot of wobble in the spur gear? I built to instructions but the whole spur gear assembly seems loose. It didn't effect it much but it seems odd.
2. What are the best CVDs for the price available for this car? Can you provide a link to where you purchased them please?
3. What is the best diff available? The plastic outdrives that it came with are not going to last long I'm sure.
03-19-2012, 08:12 AM
#2423
So I got to test my FF03 out with the VTA cars at my local club last night. This thing is so fun to drive. I'll be able to keep up as soon as I find a fast silvercan to throw in and I gear it up, and mount a fan as I have seen in pictures.
three questions,
1. Is it normal to have a lot of wobble in the spur gear? I built to instructions but the whole spur gear assembly seems loose. It didn't effect it much but it seems odd.
2. What are the best CVDs for the price available for this car? Can you provide a link to where you purchased them please?
3. What is the best diff available? The plastic outdrives that it came with are not going to last long I'm sure.
three questions,
1. Is it normal to have a lot of wobble in the spur gear? I built to instructions but the whole spur gear assembly seems loose. It didn't effect it much but it seems odd.
2. What are the best CVDs for the price available for this car? Can you provide a link to where you purchased them please?
3. What is the best diff available? The plastic outdrives that it came with are not going to last long I'm sure.
I use the 4wd cvd as long they are the same lenghts
wobble spur gear ? .I have to check mine ..
03-19-2012, 09:53 AM
#2424
Tech Master
iTrader: (93)
Yes the wobble is normal. the option piece improves the wobble a little bit. I haven't had any problems with is like this. I haven't stripped any spurs.
CVDs I used ones from a previous TA05. someone else can do the homework an provide a link.
I just threw out a set of the Tamiya Aluminum diff halfs out. the plastic blades get chewed up easily then that tears up the aluminum outdrives. the thrust bearing seized into the diff half. I only used them for a month and a half.
The plastic ones work just fine.
use a smear of shoe goo to hold the diff rings to the halves.
Ca the metal retaining rings to their plastic locations (sand lightly first) and the diff will word fine for a good long time between rebuilds.
CVDs I used ones from a previous TA05. someone else can do the homework an provide a link.
I just threw out a set of the Tamiya Aluminum diff halfs out. the plastic blades get chewed up easily then that tears up the aluminum outdrives. the thrust bearing seized into the diff half. I only used them for a month and a half.
The plastic ones work just fine.
use a smear of shoe goo to hold the diff rings to the halves.
Ca the metal retaining rings to their plastic locations (sand lightly first) and the diff will word fine for a good long time between rebuilds.
03-21-2012, 10:03 AM
#2428
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Secret Underground Laboratory
Posts: 2,353
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
^^did that run a little hot, Steve?^^
At last weekend's TCS in Frederick, which is a good sized asphalt track that had two chicanes and some tight infield bits, I ran a 5.22 FDR. Car was as fast as anything out there (and better than the driver) & the motor came off at under 120F.
For a tight/small/carpet track and a truly competitive TCS legal motor (say 18,300 very warm vs the limit of 18,750 @ 7.2 volts), I'd start at 5.4 FDR and go up or down based on feel (sluggish coming out of the turns? winding out too quickly on the straight?) and motor temp (under 140F?).
With a Red Dot full race (20,000 RPM @ five volts), maybe 6.4 FDR to start. With a Red Dot 15K (15,000 +/- RPM @ five volts), maybe 5.8.
At last weekend's TCS in Frederick, which is a good sized asphalt track that had two chicanes and some tight infield bits, I ran a 5.22 FDR. Car was as fast as anything out there (and better than the driver) & the motor came off at under 120F.
For a tight/small/carpet track and a truly competitive TCS legal motor (say 18,300 very warm vs the limit of 18,750 @ 7.2 volts), I'd start at 5.4 FDR and go up or down based on feel (sluggish coming out of the turns? winding out too quickly on the straight?) and motor temp (under 140F?).
With a Red Dot full race (20,000 RPM @ five volts), maybe 6.4 FDR to start. With a Red Dot 15K (15,000 +/- RPM @ five volts), maybe 5.8.
03-21-2012, 10:07 AM
#2429
^^did that run a little hot, Steve?^^
At last weekend's TCS in Frederick, which is a good sized asphalt track that had two chicanes and some tight infield bits, I ran a 5.22 FDR. Car was as fast as anything out there (and better than the driver) & the motor came off at under 120F.
For a tight/small/carpet track and a truly competitive TCS legal motor (say 18,300 very warm vs the limit of 18,750 @ 7.2 volts), I'd start at 5.4 FDR and go up or down based on feel (sluggish coming out of the turns? winding out too quickly on the straight?) and motor temp (under 140F?).
With a Red Dot full race (20,000 RPM @ five volts), maybe 6.4 FDR to start. With a Red Dot 15K (15,000 +/- RPM @ five volts), maybe 5.8.
At last weekend's TCS in Frederick, which is a good sized asphalt track that had two chicanes and some tight infield bits, I ran a 5.22 FDR. Car was as fast as anything out there (and better than the driver) & the motor came off at under 120F.
For a tight/small/carpet track and a truly competitive TCS legal motor (say 18,300 very warm vs the limit of 18,750 @ 7.2 volts), I'd start at 5.4 FDR and go up or down based on feel (sluggish coming out of the turns? winding out too quickly on the straight?) and motor temp (under 140F?).
With a Red Dot full race (20,000 RPM @ five volts), maybe 6.4 FDR to start. With a Red Dot 15K (15,000 +/- RPM @ five volts), maybe 5.8.