Tamiya FF03
#3316
Tech Adept
I had a 3racing carbon fibre conversion and if I recall, it dropped about 100g plus a 4800mah lipo making it about 50g heavier than my ARC R11F. I'll check later to make sure. Also consider a lighter motor
#3317
Ok thank you. In the moment i have the feeling, that the wheels don't bring the Power 100% on the ground. Thats why i want to try thicker diff oil to lock the diff a little bit more.
With the original ball diff i had the feeling,that there was more traction.
Greetings from Germany
Alex
With the original ball diff i had the feeling,that there was more traction.
Greetings from Germany
Alex
#3318
Tech Rookie
Hi all. I'm pretty inexperienced. I've read all these pages and since I consider getting an FF-03 I tried to get an idea what hopups I should get. I don't expect to race on a high level anytime soon, but I might practice for the future. However, some of the recommended hopups seem to be impossible to find at least in Europe. I wonder what is really essential, and if that means essential parts are sold out, is it even worth to get an FF-03?
#3319
Tamiya stopped releasing new cars on the FF-03 platform many years ago, the parts support isn't there any more. I would not recommend an FF-03 for anything other than putting on a shelf or driving gently in the street. I would not recommend the FF-04 either.
If you want an inexpensive FWD chassis, the Xpress is more up to date and quite widely available, Or you might be able to pick up a second-hand high-end race chassis from the likes of XRAY.
If you want an inexpensive FWD chassis, the Xpress is more up to date and quite widely available, Or you might be able to pick up a second-hand high-end race chassis from the likes of XRAY.
#3320
Hi all. I'm pretty inexperienced. I've read all these pages and since I consider getting an FF-03 I tried to get an idea what hopups I should get. I don't expect to race on a high level anytime soon, but I might practice for the future. However, some of the recommended hopups seem to be impossible to find at least in Europe. I wonder what is really essential, and if that means essential parts are sold out, is it even worth to get an FF-03?
Hop Ups should be TRF Shocks, geardiff (needs FF03r housing) and double joint cardan. If you drive on higher grip surfaces, harder suspension parts are recomended (reinforced arms or TRF420 arms and hubs).
The car is fun and fast (with the right setup), but nothing for competition. And parts will get harder to come by in the coming years.
#3321
To reiterate what they said they FF03 chassis while I loved running it while it worked, as you found out parts are getting more and more scarce.
I ran my FF03 with a Sport Tuned motor in our FWD class and definitely turned some heads. Racers at the track kept asking me what it was.
That was until I clipped a pipe and launched my FF03 into the air about 4' off the ground into the wall. Shattered my double cardans, front suspension, and a few more things.
I shelved it until a month ago where I had ordered a carbon fiber deck and other Tamiya pieces. I got it all back together and it sits on my shelf with a Bittydesign FWD body on it.
I would recommend the Schumacher Mission FT if you are looking for a FWD car. At least the part are more readily available. The price for parts of the FF03 is almost laughable on eBay and Amazon.
I ran my FF03 with a Sport Tuned motor in our FWD class and definitely turned some heads. Racers at the track kept asking me what it was.
That was until I clipped a pipe and launched my FF03 into the air about 4' off the ground into the wall. Shattered my double cardans, front suspension, and a few more things.
I shelved it until a month ago where I had ordered a carbon fiber deck and other Tamiya pieces. I got it all back together and it sits on my shelf with a Bittydesign FWD body on it.
I would recommend the Schumacher Mission FT if you are looking for a FWD car. At least the part are more readily available. The price for parts of the FF03 is almost laughable on eBay and Amazon.
#3323
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
If you want your gear diff to feel like a ball diff, you're going to need to go down to 5,000cSt silicone oil, approximately. The diff will feel very loose when you rotate the drive cups by hand, but when spinning at thousands of RPM it will behave as you expect.
#3324
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Not as far as I know, but you can always buy a few different gauges of piano wire at your local hobby shop and bend them to make your own swaybars. That's the same thing RC manufacturers use. I've even made swaybars for RCs that never had factory swaybar kits, and it works marvelously. You just need two strong pairs of pliers that you can use to bend the wire, and a piece of paper that you can trace the bend-angle onto so you can duplicate the same angle on both sides of the swaybar.
#3325
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
Not as far as I know, but you can always buy a few different gauges of piano wire at your local hobby shop and bend them to make your own swaybars. That's the same thing RC manufacturers use. I've even made swaybars for RCs that never had factory swaybar kits, and it works marvelously. You just need two strong pairs of pliers that you can use to bend the wire, and a piece of paper that you can trace the bend-angle onto so you can duplicate the same angle on both sides of the swaybar.
Thanks.
#3326
Tech Rookie
i know this thread is dead just like the ff03 is, haha, but im in so cal and seeing if anyone still has one and if so, if theyre willing to part ways with it?