Yes you can. You can get them from R10, I did.

well since i havent run my evo4 advice from me seems worthless.
wot is ur problem?just after a decent ashphelt setup or u actually avin a problem ie sounds like ur cars versteering.

a basic set up i nw use for ashelt is on my evo3 with new lw suspension.
i found the evo3 to be faster like for like.
so here it is.
front/rear;

springs;yellow/yellow
shock oil 40/40
camber link position;mid/mid
camber link spacers;5mm/0mm
wheelbase;[LW suspension] all the way back/all the way forward with a 2mm spacer in front of rer wishbones.
camber;1.5d/1.5d.
toe;2d out/a-c
caster;4d
kick up;0mm
anti-squat;0mm.
ride height;6.0mm/6.5mm
droop;3.0mm;3.5m
motor;12*1 peak V2 surikarn
gearing;36/96
body;alfa 2

this is my basic setup.
it feels even better with a low turn mod.
i use it with a 7*2.
id use this se-up at barham.
i dnt now hw ud convert itto evo4 setting.
the camber link length and eveything is exactly the same the only difference is that mine has a shorter wheelbase to produce more grip.
i havent come to barham yet as ive beenn racig almost every weekend.bt i will do within this month.
il c you l8er.

OK,.... so,

Your 2 deg toe out must be on the front? Obvious question.

I take it you mean you shortened the wheelbase by moving the front wishbones backwards and the rear forward?

4 deg caster is no prob as the kit comes with 4 deg uprights as well as 2 (which is what is on it)

I have a 12*1 PT and a 7*2 KR (don't I always get the equipment? Can't use it properly though)

Are you leaving the shocks at true spring length and then controlling RH with the droops? I think what you have is do-able with just the shocks on a 4.

IMHO if you've got a setup that will exterminate with an EVO3, it will totally anhialate with an EVO4!

Anything you want from R10? I've got an order to put in. Carbon propshaft perchance?

As an aside, Alex top points scorer in the whole darned club indoors (194). Colin couldn't be bothered.... too busy with his batteries :weird:

You guys know where I can buy a replacement Owners manual?

Hi, so which is the best car? is it the Evo IV or the TRF 415? I want to get one but not sure which. i have heard that torque steer is bad with the evo. is this true?

thanks for any help

I'm sure you'll get alot of good advice with your question above but, my suggestion is if you can get both, get both and form your own opinion.

As for me, I'm still trying to form that opinion... right now I'm 2 for 2 on my TRF415 :D and will be testing the Evo4 more extensively the following weeks.

I wanted to let you know that last months issue and this months issue of RC car magazine they are comparing the best shaft drive to the best belt drive, then next month is the match up of shaft vs. belt drive. The two cars I believe are the Xray and TC3 . Should be interesting! Getting ahold of these issues might be a good idea if your thinking about buying an EVO-4.
Just my 2 cents! :nod: :nod:

So, I'm nearly there...

WB shortened by 4mm
40/40 oil as before
Yellows rear Schu blues front
Camberlinks per kit (nothing wrong and no spacers needed)
Left front blocks A/A but gave 2 deg toe out
Caster still 2 deg
RH 6.5R, 6.0F
Droop sets at 3/2.5
gearing 31/96

Put the KR 7*2 in......... blimey!!!!!

Any thoughts on swapping ends under brakes? Maybe unbalanced shocks?

I will be attending the Australian TCS with my TB Evo IV at the beginning of October and while it is not my primary class for the event, I'd still like to do well. We are gonna be using the Tamiya 23 Turn Super Stock motors for racing and I was wondering what setups people have tried and had success with with this car?? Also, what gearing should I use with this car?? I am thinking around the 5.8-6.2 area but I'm not too sure. I will be using a combination of the Tamiya Super Stock Type TZ and RZ motors.

Any advise would be appreciated!!!

That would be Xtreme RC Cars Magazine:)

Boy, you got it right on! If you want to go easy on the motor but have decent speed then 6.2 is good. If you don't care about getting the motor too hot but want to go fast then 5.8 is what you need.
I admit that here at the Tamiya test track in Aliso Viejo, some guys went all the way down to 5.6! That's really pushing it! The temperature of the motor is going to go over 200 degrees but for that 5 minutes or so with a good battery, you are going to fly down the track.
This also depends if the track your running on is as big as the Tamiya track here.:eek: :eek: :tire: :tire:
Have Fun!!!!:nod: :nod:

At the European finals we all got down to 5.07. This was with handout TZ motors and handout Tamiya Sanyo 3600 stickpacks.
The cars were balistic! It was a fast and open track tough. We did a set 20 laps in the finals wich came down to 6min 30 sec. Ambiant temp was 25c°. The motors held out all weekend without a problem. We did scim them after every run, but thats only normal at an event like that.

Yes it would be and you guys did an AWSOME job on both articles!! Keep up the good work there!!

EA

Okay, awesome. Well it is held in a tight layout (yet to see the layout, waiting on a map) so I think that around 5.8 will be the go. I have been using the Type S, R, RR, T in my F201 with the high speed gear set (5.88 gear ratio) and that has seemed to be the go. I just wanted to confirm that sort of gearing for these new motors, as they certainly are a huge step over the S and RR.

Any setting tips for running at that sort of speed???

What i do is practice with a 17t or a19t motor. find a suitable setup for those speeds. Then for the race i put in the 23t and have a car that works great at the slightly slower speed.