jedi, the E block that comes with it stock is like 3 degrees of toe per side and it is a lot. It is fine if you are running mod or are having trouble getting the back end to stick on pavement. With stock I was running A-B and with mod on carpet right now I am running A-C and it seems to work quite well.

The biggest differance is the most obvious one..........EVO4 is shaft drive and the 415 is belt drive. The 2nd thing is the EVO4 has the newer lightweight suspension setup where the 415 has the standard type suspension. I would think the belt drive setup is better to run a spool with as shaft cars tend to strip gears when running a spool. I know I have had this happen several times with my shaft cars and not at all with my belt cars.

It seems that overall the 415 might be a tad bit better but it is real tough call. I think for some reason the EVO4 has more suspension slop with the new arm setup.

Yeh, I use C Blocks at the moment in Stock and I'm yet to try the 415 blocks that I bought, as I believe that they can be used, but they are slightly higher then the Evo IV ones.

In regard to the slop on the Evo IV, I'd say that knwoing Tamiya, they will have a remedy to this soon I'm sure. Its still a relatively new car and they are addressing issues with it like the aluminium drive cups (not that I've ever broken a plastic one).

415 blocks are 1mm lower than the Evo4 blocks.

Yep Jeffrey is right, the 415 blocks are 1mm lower. Hence the number 1 on them like "B1". You can still use them if you put 1mm shims under the blocks. With the normal Evo4 blocks I already have 2mm of aluminum shims under them anyway to lower the roll center. I got a great tip on where to get shims. Use Associated 9630 shims for the B4 kingpin ballstuds and they work great.

Oh okay, that's interesting. I knew it was either 1mm up or down, just forgot which way it went.

How do you measure the roll center, is placing washers under the blocks the only way to adjust it, or can you adjust it by the spacers for the camber links on the bulkheads too??

Actually you raise the roll center if you put shims under the blocks to raise the inner side of the lower arm. The opposite is true with the upper link.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by trf racer

Quote:

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Originally posted by EVOtech
Thursday? Maritime? [/QUOTE

ok change of plan no2.iam going thursday to maritie.u goin?jus come along to see the evo4 on carpet.
iam coming friday and racing both evo4 and 415.
ive found some slick yellows so will use them lol.so u coming thursday aswell?

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Never been there, never likely to go there either. You know why.

Doh:lol:

ok.i no y hehe.
so i will see you friday at eltham and il pit were i normally pit and you can pit on me table and have power.ok?
pm me your mobnile numba again pease as i have accidently misplaced it lol.

No offence guys but this is a bit too off topic. Perhaps this sort of discussion could be done in a thread dedicated to your club or something, not really a Chassis thread.

What we both usually post is on-topic and I believe we have both given you EVO4 advice before. If you look back through this thread you'll see lots of other off-topic stuff as well. Maybe even some from you?

I didn't mean to offend or anything like that. I'm sure you understand where I am coming from though, and I know that you have talked about true Evo IV things in the past and I think that's great!!!! I look forward to seeing more of that stuff.

Back to the topic though, has anyone compared the two different brands of driveshaft cups?? Square and Tamiya I mean of course. I am just ordering the front cup as Tamiya and the rear cup from Square. This is mainly as I don't already have any of the lightweight prop joints, but I was just wondering what people thought of it.

I am also getting the new Lightweight Tamiya shaft as no one seems to have the Team Bomber Carbon Shaft anywhere anymore. :( :( That's okay though. The lightened Tamiya Driveshaft has a tamiya emblem on it. :D :D

I'm also gettin the rear uprights. Can't wait to get the stuff.

We have the square shafts and cups on the outdoor EVO4 and the Tamiya shafts and cups on the indoor EVO4. The Tamiya parts are cheaper than square ones and they are as good, in my opinion. They are virtually identical.

The only thing I don't particularly like is they both use a rubber ring around the rear cup to hold a loose pin securing it to the shaft. If the ring snapped in a race, bye-bye pin and bye-bye front drive.

Both ours also use the bomber shaft, which is a v good piece of kit.

The rear uprights are good if you use threadlock on the bearings to hold them in tight.

To replace the battery bar, either use a Yokomo MR-4 bar and enlarge the holes a little (outdoor car, crashed many a time, never lost a battery) or use a TT-01 alloy bar modified a little (indoor car, not crashed but equally never lost a battery).

that is ok no offence taken.the problem is our clubs are to smal and only a handful of ppl here go to them.
mainly myself evotech and mr jolly.
is that worth a whole thread so just 3 ppl cn talk?no so as soon as me and evotech race the same cars we might aswell talk about it here.but wont no longer lol.