What about stacking two top plates? I myself have been having these tweak problems and really want to sole them. This car is good on the carpet but, like everyone is saying the tweak is a huge problem. Where can I get that KAI Chassis? is there an overseeas online hobbyshop that carries it? how much is it? and finally what makes it better than the stock chassis?

I work on the basis of if your doing something do it properly and stacking two top plates aint doing it properly. However a 3mm countersunk top deck is Rick

I have one set to spare, will put it on eBay next week. I'm posting the link here when it's up there.

So what is the reason behind countersinking the top deck? Does it spread the load better?

It will help the screws center better and hopefully help keep them there, it certainly helped my evo 3. Rick

Could someone maybe post the last page of the Evo4 Manual where the parts are listed?
I need the sizes an numbers of the screws.
Or could somebody post a list?

Thanks

http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58331.pdf

I would use a countersunk 3mm chassis but, wait... THERE ISN'T ONE AVAILABLE. I'm sorry but I'm not going to shell out the cash to get a custom one. I think we need to talk to the guys at BMI to get a new chassis for this car!

If anyone is interested in my car and parts as a whole PM me resonable offers...There are 300.00 worth of parts alone. Will post in the swap and sell page later.

EA

We've not really noticed a problem with kickout. The indoor EVO4 behaves perfectly in stock and the outdoor one seems OK with a 12T reedy PT. I don't even use the centre braces indoors.

The only thing I did was to loctite all the screws in on the outdoor one. Last thing you want is an out-of-control mod flying away at about 45 mph!

FWIW, I countersunk my to deck and it seems to be pretty good. The car held its tweak well but I didn't hit anything very hard either. In one of my heats I got a big radio hit and went straight into a wall at the end of the straight and while I was shaken up, the car seemed pretty good for the remainder of the race.

I didn't countersink the four screws at each corner of the top plate but I did the other six. You need to be really careful when doing the ones for the steering posts and just don't torque them down hard. You shouldn't have to anyways. I also reinforced the countersinks and edges with CA glue and it seems to be holding up well so far. If I get some time I will post pics.

EA.. you never replied back to my PM. i was inquiring.

PM Sent..Sorry !!!

Can I get a PM too Eric

I spent some time today really stiffining up my chassis. I countersunk all screws on my top plate accept the 4 that connect to the diff cases. On those screws I used a very long countersunk screw with the HPI countersunk aluminum washers to really clamp down on the carbon fiber. I also used loctite threadlocker to hold in all chassis and top plate screws. I was thinking about having a special chassis made but, the chasis feels much, much stiffer. You can hardly twist the chasis by hand!