onaMISSION....that is a sweet looking paint job!!!!!!!

That is a nice paint job

anybody here do anything to there tires to keep them from chunking? I have heard of people putting show goo or CA on the sidewall but thought it would mess up the balance.

I know a lot of the sedan guys put a small bead of ca along the edge where the foam meets the rim. A small amount shouldn't hurt the balance any but if you are worried you can always rebalance the tire.

Alvin- Check out the pic from the World's at Orions website of the Corrally car. You will see that they made a graphite motor pod top plate and mounted an Associated style VSC center shock to it. They also use what look like CRC Side Dampers on it. If you call Windtunnel racing at 877-596-2403 I bet he could make you that top plate. I also think you will want him to make you a couple of .075" fiberglass T-bars for it since the stock Corrally T-bars may be too thick (I'm not sure).

Newracer- It seems that the number one thing you can do to prevent chunking foam tires is to make sure that the wheel wells on the body are properly cut out and that the body is properly mounted. If you compress the suspension fully by pressing on the body posts (with the body on the car) the tires shouldn't hit the body. Turn the front wheels first one way and compress the front suspension and then while still pressing down turn the wheels the other way. Make sure that the body doesn't rub on the tires or this will cause you to "chunk" them during cornering or a crash. For the rear tires push the side of the body inward and see if it hits the tires. The bigger the rear tires are the better up to let's say 1.95". By having wheel wells cut out for this big of a rear tire you shouldn't cut or chunk a rear tire. If you run on ashpalt mostly then you want to cut the rear tire wells to fit 2" rear tires because you normally need the extra clearance. For carpet racing we normally run from 1.94"-1.82" rear tires and the fronts are usually 1.74"-1.68". For asphalt racing I imagine that you would want rears between 1.99"-1.89" and fronts between 1.78"-1.72" (these are estimates since I don't run asphalt).

thanks for the replies

I haven't "chunked" any fronts yet but did a pretty good job on one of my rears. I think it may have actually hit something on the track or even a board.

what is the proper way to adjust ride height in the front? I use the spacers under the suspension mounts, should I also be using kingpin spacers?

What servo would you guys recommend to be used? Thanks!

Good question. Back in the early-mid '90's I always ran the Airtronics 94143 or 94144, and nowadays my instinct would be to go with the Airtronics 94145Z, however I've been looking at the Futaba 9602 with some interest.

Has anyone used the 9602? Any opinions? My new Switchblade kit arrives tomorrow, and I'll have to choose between the 94145Z and the 9602 pretty soon... I wouldn't mind saving some money by going with the 9602, but not at the expense of performance.

Thanks,

David

look at the hitec mighty mini, if u get it mg + BB its got like 60 oz torque at something like .1 and it didint have slop like my 925 did. the mini are also only like $45

CARPET SET_UP FOR RC12L3?
 

Hey could some help me out with a carpet setup for 4 cell 19t on carpet?

I purchased my first 1/12th scale. And I have no idea about tire size or anything for that matter any help would be much appreciated.......

you could email me one or just post it right here [email protected]

late,
Earl
Jax, FL

EEEE!

What's up speedy! I thought we were running 6-cell Stock?

Duke forgot to mention this is brand new carpet, (if it makes a difference).

Duke1- I'm assuming that you will be racing road course. If you check through some of the prior post (such as pages 18-24) you will get some very good ideas about build and setups. Normal caster/camber/spring settings which are only a 1/3 of a setup in my opinion would be: 3deg caster, -2deg camber, Assoc. .020" springs. Hope this helps.

Kraig- I personally like/use the JR 3550Z and so do several top 12th scale racers due to its centering capabilities (resolution) and good torque capabilities (that seems better than its rating).

Add in JR's awesome support, good size/weight, a fair price ($60), good speed (.12sec/60deg) and tuff gear train (even though its nylon) and you have a great servo.

I had consistent problems with the Hitech 235AG servo's (3 of them) for 12th scale. It usually dealt with resolution loss since the motor isn't a coreles or 5 pole (like the JR and others). Also gear trains were hard to come by for me with the Hitech's and easy for the JR's (I've changed 1 gear in a 2yr old servo!).

However in all fairness Hitech has a new digital 12th scale servo out that may be very good (I can't remember the model number).

NewRacer- You are spacing the ride height correctly by putting washers under the lower supsension arms.
Spacing the the top or bottom of the Steering block will raise or lower the Roll Center. Spacing or "shimming" the kingpin will mostly adjust "Droop". I prefer some "Droop" at the bottom of the kingpin where the spring is so that the car has a little more on throttle steering and works a little better on bumpy tracks.

Alvin - Regarding the SP12G3. I used to run that car about 6 years ago (it seems). I put the small Delta shock on it and made my own fiber glass t-bar from .063 stock. Corally had glass t-bar, but it is thicker. I used the spring and shock to make tuning adjustments, rather than stay with the one t-bar. This combination made the car stable on the bumpy tracks in my area. I treated this part of the car just like the 12LC that was the hot Associated car at that time. Green spring with 30 weight oil in the shock. I now suggest that you use the Associated VCS shock and test oils between 20 and 40. There are also many springs to try, starting with the green and you may make it all the way up to blue. Tiger talks about the upper pod plate and the "rod in tube" style damper, but I don't think that is necessary. Your biggest challenge is to get the Corally damper system to ride properly so that all motion from the motor pod translates to piston movement in the shock. As far as the option part you saw in, I assume, the Corally parts list/catolog, they are Yokomo shocks that are too large for the 1/12 scale car. That shock does not have enough tuning options to be of benefit. I used to use that shock on the F1 Corally. But I built a new F1 two years ago and used the VCS shock instead. That combination ran great. I wouldn't get too excited about the Corally effort at the worlds. I consider that car to be the result of band aids to adapt to the pavement.

Question:
what are the effects of having the servo mounted flat on the chassis instead of angled on mounts?

Car: RC12L3

Thanks,
:confused:

it affects the ackerman a bit. With the servo mounted on a slant, the rotation of the center point moves somewhat forward and backward as well as left and right and this (I believe) helps correct the ackerman angles a tad.

If the servo is mounted flat, there is none of the forward and backward motion.

Is this observation correct, or am I imagining things. . .once again. . .:weird: