You can use a sharp 1/8" drill bit or order a 1/8" (.125) reamer from a tool supply company online like McMaster Carr.

Like Dark said you rear will be softer. This willmake your car better over bumps, increase rear traction and make the car turn in less agressively.

On asphalt you run the .063" T bad with 2 screws 99.9% of the time.

On carpet you can run anything from the .063" T bad with 2 screws to an .075" with all 3 screws. Its all about the feel you want to get out of the car, how bumpy the track is and and how much traction yout track has. Don't assume that because its carpet you need to run .075" with all 3 screws.

I had read someplace that BSR is releasing/working on a new rim for their 12th tires as well. has anybody seen/heard this as well?

BSR did already. Our local shop has them. I believe they are just using the CRC High Roller rims.

But do yourself a favor, spend the money, and get a .125 reamer. It's the right tool for the job. I think I bought one for $12 from Niftech, they're probably $8-10 from McMaster-Carr. You're really only removing just a hint of material--I can run my reamer in with my fingertips--but it makes a BIG difference. Remember to do as Adrian instructs, though, and ream the steering blocks AFTER you install the axles.

Scottrik

They should be on our website later today or tomorrow. The compounds for the new Pro 38 wheels are:

16520 purple fronts
16521 magenta fronts
16532 grey rears
16534 magenta rears

Paul

Paul,

Any idea if Parma will offer a "violet" compound for the front? I've taken a real liking to those for 19-T.

Thanks,

Scottrik

Probably to the start of next carpet season.

Paul

what is the purpose of running only two pod screws on a t-bar car compared to running all three?.

one of the things rarely mention that it does: it enables some vertical pod movement and dampening on a t-bar car that you don't get running all 3. the pod is mounted off of 2 fiberglass fingers like the older Delta Phazer/Spyder cars of years past. for some this helps on lo-trac, bumpy tracks, and smooths out a t-bar car. in my opinion also adds alot of forward traction. to make up for this you end up having to run softer or dual compound fronts.

for people new to 12th or if your driving with drivers crashing on a straightaway infront of you for no reason....i don't recommend it. your chances of breaking a t-bar are increased over someone running all three.

i have seen many new to 12th drivers go thru 2 t-bars a race trying to run the pro set-ups they see posted. especially in mod trying try to run dbl pink, magenta, cyan, violet fronts that create more steering than they can drive or handle

what works at IIC, Cleveland, IFMAR Worlds, SB's, and for the Pros may not work at your local tracks. i recommend trying it both ways

does anyone has the part number for 1/8'' reamer from McMaster Carr?
I check the website.. most of the them cost more then $30 :weird:

No pink rears yet?

Here's the info on the Niftech reamer. $10.95


1. Straight flute with close tolerances.
Full Size Image
Reamer 1/8'' (.125) (#3401-.125)
$10.95 Quanity:

See 'em at http://www.niftech.com/ Under Catalog, then Special Tools.

Your guess is correct

Any of these three from McMaster.com will work for you:

3106A15
2975A22
2995A61

They are all between $7 and $9

-E

thank you guys.

~Ming

its the only way to get the t plate car to run fast and be stable;
and this is why after so many years iv changed and im driving the gen x