Schumacher Corner
10-12-2005, 08:59 PM
jon whats the difference with normal mi2 belt and r12 belt ?
10-12-2005, 09:04 PM
Originally Posted by daz mac
jon whats the difference with normal mi2 belt and r12 belt ?
10-12-2005, 09:08 PM
so does it change the gear ratio abit then roberto.
10-12-2005, 09:10 PM
From what I know no , I still gear my motors the same
10-12-2005, 09:14 PM
thanx roberto. i try r12 belt again.
10-12-2005, 10:22 PM
Roberto is right. It's a little longer and it's stronger than the stock belt.
10-13-2005, 05:14 AM
I noticed on Teemus car in a photo that it has a shorter main belt as it goes around the spur layshaft anyone got a part number for the short belt.
Thanks
Mi2,Peak,Intellect
Thanks
Mi2,Peak,Intellect
10-13-2005, 06:17 AM
That's the new drive train layout that will be on the Mi2EC.
10-13-2005, 06:36 AM
Jon is correct. FYI, the new drivetrain will NOT fit on an Mi2.
10-13-2005, 06:50 AM
All I need is a belt I have modified the layshaft and the rear diff and was wonderiing if the belt on Teemus car would fit.
Thanks
Mi2,Peak,Intellect
Thanks
Mi2,Peak,Intellect
10-13-2005, 10:00 AM
Tech Regular
Bender- It seems as though we have been through just about everything on your car. However, I find that in some cases (usually low to very low bite situations) there is a little trick which can make all the difference. In these situations you can try running alot of bump toe in in the front end. I know it may sound strange, but it can really help. I have a set of steeering knuckles that have the arm shaved down from the top to the molding line (about 50% of the material has been removed). Re-install the ball studs on the knuckles, and they will be lower than they were before. Then I swap the knuckles to the opposite side of the car so that they are now "upside down" (with the steering ballstud facing down). Remove any washers from under the ball studs on the bellcranks that connect to the knuckles. Re-attatch your links, and then readjust your front toe at ride height so that it is 0 to .5 degrees toe out. Now as you move the front of your car up and down through its suspension travel, you will see your front tires toe in drastically when the suspension compresses. It is a little difficult to explain this modification without seeing it, and even more difficult to explain why it works. LMK if you have any questions.-Jeff
10-13-2005, 12:31 PM
Originally Posted by Jay Dub
Bender- It seems as though we have been through just about everything on your car. However, I find that in some cases (usually low to very low bite situations) there is a little trick which can make all the difference. In these situations you can try running alot of bump toe in in the front end. I know it may sound strange, but it can really help. I have a set of steeering knuckles that have the arm shaved down from the top to the molding line (about 50% of the material has been removed). Re-install the ball studs on the knuckles, and they will be lower than they were before. Then I swap the knuckles to the opposite side of the car so that they are now "upside down" (with the steering ballstud facing down). Remove any washers from under the ball studs on the bellcranks that connect to the knuckles. Re-attatch your links, and then readjust your front toe at ride height so that it is 0 to .5 degrees toe out. Now as you move the front of your car up and down through its suspension travel, you will see your front tires toe in drastically when the suspension compresses. It is a little difficult to explain this modification without seeing it, and even more difficult to explain why it works. LMK if you have any questions.-Jeff
I noticed that standard there is quite a bit of toe-out bumpsteer built into the car. I have tried to reduce that by raising the ballstud on the steering bellcranks by 2mm. My car now has very little bumpsteer at all, but I hadn't worked out how to turn it into toe-in bumpsteer.
It sounds like a good idea though - theoretically the outside front wheel is doing the most work when turning (especially if the car is set up soft) - so having the outside wheel turn more as the suspension is compressed makes sense to me
I will do the mods this weekend.
10-13-2005, 06:07 PM
Bender, by running the extra 2mm shim on the steering bellcrank you have all but eliminated bump steer, it should be almost neutral.
Jay Dubs suggestion is an interesting one, allot of the team drivers have modded their steering knuckles by removing 2mm from the topside where the ballstud attaches, this gives neutral bumpsteer as you allready have with 2mm added to the bellcrank end. Jaydubs suggestion - an extension of that by switching hubs over is worth a try.
Im currently running Corally bellcranks, with the links mounted to the underside. Just enough clearance without the link touching the suspension arm throughout its range of motion. Providing almost the same geometry in bump steer to standard, and the length of the bellcranks are close to identical. Only thing is that they dont provide a centre position, only inside/outside. The outside position on the standard bellcranks should help turn in, along with centre trackrod of 40.8.
test Jaydubs suggestion and report back to us your findings.
Jay Dubs suggestion is an interesting one, allot of the team drivers have modded their steering knuckles by removing 2mm from the topside where the ballstud attaches, this gives neutral bumpsteer as you allready have with 2mm added to the bellcrank end. Jaydubs suggestion - an extension of that by switching hubs over is worth a try.
Im currently running Corally bellcranks, with the links mounted to the underside. Just enough clearance without the link touching the suspension arm throughout its range of motion. Providing almost the same geometry in bump steer to standard, and the length of the bellcranks are close to identical. Only thing is that they dont provide a centre position, only inside/outside. The outside position on the standard bellcranks should help turn in, along with centre trackrod of 40.8.
test Jaydubs suggestion and report back to us your findings.
10-13-2005, 09:47 PM
questions on mi2 build:
going to pick up the mi2 i bought tommorrow, will start build soon after. was hoping some of the experts out there could volunteer me some build tips/things to look out for.im sure the car will go together smoothly but any advice is welcome. is anyone using the swaybars for asphalt racing? also, what spring/oil set up should i consider vs. the stock stuff---oh yeah i am most interested in the shock build up tips because i've heard about them being difficult (but i will be using them, not tamiya,ect. for the moment).
thanx
going to pick up the mi2 i bought tommorrow, will start build soon after. was hoping some of the experts out there could volunteer me some build tips/things to look out for.im sure the car will go together smoothly but any advice is welcome. is anyone using the swaybars for asphalt racing? also, what spring/oil set up should i consider vs. the stock stuff---oh yeah i am most interested in the shock build up tips because i've heard about them being difficult (but i will be using them, not tamiya,ect. for the moment).
thanx
10-13-2005, 09:57 PM
Mi2 EC. Can anyone shed some light on this.
I heard that the chassis will retail for something like $700+ AUD. I just checked the Schumacher website and the car is priced at $419.99 USD which means it's $560 AUD. Does anyone know what the AUD price is going to be or if I want to aquire one I should just order from the USA?
I heard that the chassis will retail for something like $700+ AUD. I just checked the Schumacher website and the car is priced at $419.99 USD which means it's $560 AUD. Does anyone know what the AUD price is going to be or if I want to aquire one I should just order from the USA?