protc3

iTrader: (13)

i would make sure you have the belt guides placed on the rear diff pulley correctly.make sure there is no interference between the 2 belts or the guides and the belts.they should guide themselves without relying on the guides or other belt for allignment.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

Im new to the car, but anyways are you using the 17 or 20 tooth pulley? make sure that you have the correct offset for the lay shaft if not you could have a very tight belt.( I think)

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I ran my MI2 for almost 2 years without snapping a single belt. In fact I know the person who bought my car and they still have not broken a belt. Are they actually breaking apart, fraying, or just blowing the teeth off? I mean this car has one of the best drive tranes out there so this does sound wierd.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Most guys run the 20 tooth. There's some debate on it. Some feel the 17 tooth gives more punch.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I only ran the 20 and I never felt like I lacked anything power wise. I guess its preference

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

I asked Jason Moberly which pulley to run when I first got my car. His response was to always run the 20, the 17 seems to tear up rear belts much more quickly.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

That would make since being smaller diameter creating a tighter bend. I just think the bigger the pulley's for the most part, the better.

bender

iTrader: (4)

The track Iain (and I) are running on is hard on the transmission due to the amount of brakes you use on two corners.

I have noticed that my Mi2 (which has had no belt problems there yet) is now starting to crunch under braking. We believe it may be due to the material used for the diff and layshaft pulleys, as we both have the standard rear pulley. These pulleys (and my stock layshaft pulley) are starting to change teeth shape which might allow the belt to slip over the teeth, or possibly that the diameter of the pulley has reduced due to wear.

If I remember correctly, Iain's rear belt is very loose, even with the tensioner on maximum, and my car's tensioner is now also nearing the maximum setting.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Wow, I don't even run the tensioner on my cars and I get no skipping. The only tensioner I run is the bottom one in front of the motor. Still doesn't explain the snapping belts though.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I actually ran one car with no tensioner and ever other tooth cut out (just to try it) and I had not problems. I did however destroy a plastic Idler pulley when I bolted in the 8 turn during practice

Iain

N4S - No, I have put plenty of new belts on, but not since I've replaced the diff pulley, so I am hoping when I get my delrin diff pulley and the new belts that my problem will be solved.

Jon - They are freying, not just a straight snap. I've just noticed that the pulley fence is loose on that side of the diff, maybe the edge of the pulley is rubbing on the belt??

Protc3 - That's what I'm thinking it might be also? I may have set the guides slightly crooked maybe and that with the loose fence is rubbing on the belt causing it too weaken??

To everyone - how does your belt look after a race meeting?? As mine looks worn, like a feathering only after a couple of runs? Which may point to it rubbing on something?

Thanks everyone for your ideas, as it really is frustrating, I'm really starting to get the car handling awesome. This is the only thing holding me back with it.

So once I've got my Schumacher order with my parts in it, I'll rebuild it, double checking the guides and fences and I'll let you all know how I go on the weekend.

Iain

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I'd say you must have something rubbing. I'm just now changing the belts on my primary car after 8 months of running mod and there's very little sign of wear. And I'm only doing that because I'm getting it ready for Vegas.

jayps

Hi to everyone! I just wanted to get your advice on something. I've recently upgraded to the teemu chassis and shocktowers. The thing is once i put the car back together, it seems the steering servo posts don't reach their holes in the upper chassis. I think it's because of the higher riser plates included in the teemu chassis. I was wondering how you guys remedied this. Thanks very much.

bender

iTrader: (4)

In the Teemu kit you should have 2 small black plastic spacers. These go on top of the steering bellcranks on both sides before you put the steering post in.

This will raise the posts so that the heads fit into the top deck

jayps

Oh ok. didn't spot those in the bag. what i found were just battery posts and spare body clips. Are they included in the first edition teemu chassis or just for the ones for 3700 batts? It seems I got the older version of the chassis.

Anyway, if I can bother you guys some more, would anyone know the part number for that or a pic of it? I'm already in touch with our schumie distributor here. I got a bunch of hop ups from them (the pretty purple ones) and i can't wai to try out the car again.

thanks so much.