Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

Cornerspeed- Yep I am using the inside hole. Ride height is fine just that I think there is too much preload on the spring at ride height. Im going to play with cutting down the ball cups and making the spring a bit looser. My problem is just slight with car balance. It just seems to want to go one way on acceleration but then it might go the other way at other times. Its odd. Kinda between tweak and bad steering trim. Ive played with it quite a bit but maybe its just excessive preload? The car is still fast though! Hell it holds track record with Australia's best drivers! Would like to fix this little problem and make it actually confident to drive!

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

Schumacher racers good luck next week at the Reedy...let us know of anything new on your missions for that race...lol

Jeff

TWiZTiD

chris the only thing I can think of that would make the car that is if there is a diffrence in spring tension even if its the same color spring, shocks acting slightly diffrent or pre load not the same.

olev

Missions centre of gravity is way off to the right with stock chassis, GP3300 batteries and light electronics. This can also cause ill handling (wandering right on acceleration and left on braking).
What I've been playing with lately is 5 batteries on the right side, one battery on the left (between speedo & servo, where Rx used to be) and Rx on the left side of the top deck. Makes left/right weight balance much better and the car is much more predictable.
Oasis - I don't really get where you're heading with the preload story. You can cut the ball cups to make the spring looser, but at the same time your ride height will drop. To achieve the same ride height, you have to add preload (exactly the same amount that you cut from the ball cup). By cutting the ball cup, you just remove "preload spacer" from underneath the spring, nothing else.

Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

Olev-Yep I am aware of that and should have been a bit clearer sorry about that. I was just wondering if people do cut the ball cups or not? I understand and yes you are right.

Regarding the weight. We have played quite a bit with weight distribution. We find with the GP3300s it is much harder to bring perfect left-right balance to your setup. With 3000s we had it spot on. I am just reducing more weight right thru the car in order to add more to the left. Things like paint on the shell and titanium make a huge difference.

Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

Twiztid-That is exactly what I am thinking. Going to play around

MattW

To save cutting the ball studs down there are 2 other things that you could try. Use AE shock "ball studs" You actually screw through them rather than being a ball stud. This has the disadvantage that the hole/thread in the wishbone will wear and they will end up loose. Also the AE spring seat allows the spring to sit about 2mm lower.

I used to cut the ball studs but was worried that if it was 100% accurate then i would be giving myself spring pressure issues.

MattW

What have experiences been like with the Take Off Pre-mounts?? What are the wheels like?? any air gap?

They haven't ever been imported to the UK, but they are now as we are using them at the upcoming Reedy Race as control in either 22 or 27 ccompound.

TWiZTiD

we are using the take off 27's with the medium insert but we cant get the pre mounted ones over here in Aus that I have seen yet

There is a air grap and there are wearing ridges rather fast but they do work really well

olev

I have cut all the ballcups on my shocks. It may not be necessary for asphalt, but it's sometimes impossible to get the car low enough on carpet without cutting.
It's quite important to check that your springs are the same L/R. If you have lot of them laying around, you may have them from different batches and they are different. Just yesterday I opened some bags of new blue springs and compared them to some of my old ones (really old)... the new ones were not only wound the other way around, they were also a bit softer and 2mm shorter. A good way to test if the springs are at fault is to change them L<->R and see if things change. Checking tweak after the change is probably a good idea too.
Weight distribution: with GP3300 my standard car was off by <100 grams. There's no way I can shave that much weight from the car without going bankrupt (it's a bit overweight as it is), so I chose to move one battery (~65 grams) to the other side. Works well and at the same time makes the total length of wires shorter

Ian S

MattW - the pre-mount 27's are in the UK now, apex have some. I'll be trying them out at ashby in the TORC this weekend if its hot enough.

cornerspeed

oasis- Have you checked that your shock pistons don't hit the top of the shock body with them that long and in the #1 hole on the arms. Just curious because that is what happens on my car the time I had mine set at 66mm. Maybe its just me.

Jay Dub

Oasis- What droop (if any) are you running, and standard or cut hubs?

One thing that helps to battle the weight distribution issue is to eliminate the battery hold down strap and posts. The gp cells are between .5 and .8 ounces heavier(per pack) than previous cells. The strap and posts weigh .5 oz. Simlpy slot the chassis where the screw holes are, and use tape. I know its a pain, but it is the cheapest and easiest way to remove weight from that side of the car.

Oasis2001

iTrader: (6)

Nah my shocks are fine. there is plenty of movement.

Jaydub- Thats pretty hardcore! I know Tamiya drivers have to tape their packs in but I never thought I would! hehe

Im running 3-4mm droop and standard hubs. Im goign to spend a day soon on the car and will work out everything hopefully

Ian S

Anyone else doing the TORC at ashby tomorrow?