Xray T1
#7666
Tech Regular
Hi,
That new chassis looks very nice, but don't you think it is a bitt overkill?
I don't think a lot of racers will use it because of the fact that it might be to ridgit?!
The more ridgit a chassis is, the better the suspension and geometrie has to be.
That new chassis looks very nice, but don't you think it is a bitt overkill?
I don't think a lot of racers will use it because of the fact that it might be to ridgit?!
The more ridgit a chassis is, the better the suspension and geometrie has to be.
#7667
The stiff chassis is superb for carpet racing. Asphalt racing just requires some tuning.
#7668
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Stiff vs. flexi chassis
YUp-you guys got it right-a more forgiving chassis makes setting up your car to be more "driveable" easier, but any Pro will tell you its a crutch!! I mean-you can put in a dud motor and rip off 25 laps within 0.1 seconds of each other, but it isnt Fast.
NOw-given certain tracks like really slick, unprepared or really bumpy surfaces-well-I might even be willing to go with a chassis with more compliance, but not too far!!
And yes-you can dial yourself out faster than you can dial yourself in with cars like the Xray and Pro4 with the ease of changing roll centers, kick-up, anti-dive, pro-squat, inboard toe out, caster, ackermann and the list goes on and on. And this is truly compounded by a stiff chassis.
But take it from one of the RCTech regulars when he went to a high bite asphalt race and change after change netted no change in overall performance. Why? Well-I'd say the chassis flex inherent in his stock chassis masked the changes he was making.
trust me-its almost easier to tune with a stiff chassis because-good or bad-you will FEEL every change. So as long as your a fairly consistent driver-you can dial yourself in faster with a stiff chassed car to be Fast-not just planted and easy to drive.
NOw-given certain tracks like really slick, unprepared or really bumpy surfaces-well-I might even be willing to go with a chassis with more compliance, but not too far!!
And yes-you can dial yourself out faster than you can dial yourself in with cars like the Xray and Pro4 with the ease of changing roll centers, kick-up, anti-dive, pro-squat, inboard toe out, caster, ackermann and the list goes on and on. And this is truly compounded by a stiff chassis.
But take it from one of the RCTech regulars when he went to a high bite asphalt race and change after change netted no change in overall performance. Why? Well-I'd say the chassis flex inherent in his stock chassis masked the changes he was making.
trust me-its almost easier to tune with a stiff chassis because-good or bad-you will FEEL every change. So as long as your a fairly consistent driver-you can dial yourself in faster with a stiff chassed car to be Fast-not just planted and easy to drive.
#7669
1 more quick question. What is the difference between using the adjustable layshaft and a dedicated front one-way?
I have never used a one-way on any car but have always wanted to try.
A guy at the track that has run an XRay for a long time said that you could use the layshaft to periodically get "used to running a one-way" instead of going all out from the beginning. I am wanting to try one or the other next month when I get some money and am just wondering which would be the best one to start with?
If it matters I run on a largish outdoor asphault track (permanent track, not parking lot). 2 big sweepers and a long straight with a fair amount of hairpins and switchbacks.
Thanks in advance.
I have never used a one-way on any car but have always wanted to try.
A guy at the track that has run an XRay for a long time said that you could use the layshaft to periodically get "used to running a one-way" instead of going all out from the beginning. I am wanting to try one or the other next month when I get some money and am just wondering which would be the best one to start with?
If it matters I run on a largish outdoor asphault track (permanent track, not parking lot). 2 big sweepers and a long straight with a fair amount of hairpins and switchbacks.
Thanks in advance.
#7670
Dones anyone know if and what is the part number for a complete set of Xray bearings? Thanks
#7671
Originally posted by Formula1fan
Dones anyone know if and what is the part number for a complete set of Xray bearings? Thanks
Dones anyone know if and what is the part number for a complete set of Xray bearings? Thanks
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...?kategoria=360
#7672
Tech Master
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Built By The Racers For The Racers. Corona CA
Posts: 1,307
Has anyone used the graphite shock towers on the Racer Composite kit? Do they fit? Are there any mods that need to be made?
#7673
John, they will work. However you may have to shim the shock mounting positions so you won't get obtuse angles.
#7674
Tech Adept
Mr. Heat
Come on John, steep up and buy the BMI chassis I've heard alot of great things about it. Oh ya, from you. What tires are you running at scotts?
John S.
John S.
#7675
Tech Master
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Built By The Racers For The Racers. Corona CA
Posts: 1,307
Re: Mr. Heat
Originally posted by R.C.R.
Come on John, steep up and buy the BMI chassis I've heard alot of great things about it. Oh ya, from you. What tires are you running at scotts?
John S.
Come on John, steep up and buy the BMI chassis I've heard alot of great things about it. Oh ya, from you. What tires are you running at scotts?
John S.
As for tires, CS27's work great in the morning but later in the day they get loose after a few laps (get hott) Howard, Alex and Robert have been using Sorex 36's med insert (i think) and are hooked up all day!
#7676
Tech Adept
Sweet, thats what I ended up with. I tried 32 but they got loose about half way. Has anyone Tried anything harder?
See Ya,
John S
See Ya,
John S
#7677
Tech Adept
Sweet, thats what I ended up with. I tried 32 but they got loose about half way. Has anyone Tried anything harder?
See Ya,
John S
See Ya,
John S
#7678
found my problem!
I found my problem! I had the front dif tightened to allow very minimal dif action, esentually making it a dif. well I guess the lenght is affected by this because there is a slight side to side motion allowed to the dif from the bulkheads. this is why I was getting a rattleing noise. Duh!!! so lesson learned. if you want a spool get one or lock dif/oneway with jb weld.
By the way has anyone made a spool of a dif sucessfuly?
By the way has anyone made a spool of a dif sucessfuly?
#7679
yes, I used the spring steel version and removed the balls and then just crank it tight. I felt that teh duraluminum was just not going to hold up to the stress a spool puts on a diff.
#7680
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Re: found my problem!
Originally posted by scmicromike
I found my problem! I had the front dif tightened to allow very minimal dif action, esentually making it a dif. well I guess the lenght is affected by this because there is a slight side to side motion allowed to the dif from the bulkheads. this is why I was getting a rattleing noise. Duh!!! so lesson learned. if you want a spool get one or lock dif/oneway with jb weld.
By the way has anyone made a spool of a dif sucessfuly?
I found my problem! I had the front dif tightened to allow very minimal dif action, esentually making it a dif. well I guess the lenght is affected by this because there is a slight side to side motion allowed to the dif from the bulkheads. this is why I was getting a rattleing noise. Duh!!! so lesson learned. if you want a spool get one or lock dif/oneway with jb weld.
By the way has anyone made a spool of a dif sucessfuly?
What parts are you guys that are running spools wearing out?
CVD's or outdrives or both?