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Old 06-30-2004, 07:56 AM   #7666
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Hi,

That new chassis looks very nice, but don't you think it is a bitt overkill?

I don't think a lot of racers will use it because of the fact that it might be to ridgit?!

The more ridgit a chassis is, the better the suspension and geometrie has to be.
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Old 06-30-2004, 09:10 AM   #7667
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The stiff chassis is superb for carpet racing. Asphalt racing just requires some tuning.
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Old 06-30-2004, 09:25 AM   #7668
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Default Stiff vs. flexi chassis

YUp-you guys got it right-a more forgiving chassis makes setting up your car to be more "driveable" easier, but any Pro will tell you its a crutch!! I mean-you can put in a dud motor and rip off 25 laps within 0.1 seconds of each other, but it isnt Fast.

NOw-given certain tracks like really slick, unprepared or really bumpy surfaces-well-I might even be willing to go with a chassis with more compliance, but not too far!!

And yes-you can dial yourself out faster than you can dial yourself in with cars like the Xray and Pro4 with the ease of changing roll centers, kick-up, anti-dive, pro-squat, inboard toe out, caster, ackermann and the list goes on and on. And this is truly compounded by a stiff chassis.

But take it from one of the RCTech regulars when he went to a high bite asphalt race and change after change netted no change in overall performance. Why? Well-I'd say the chassis flex inherent in his stock chassis masked the changes he was making.

trust me-its almost easier to tune with a stiff chassis because-good or bad-you will FEEL every change. So as long as your a fairly consistent driver-you can dial yourself in faster with a stiff chassed car to be Fast-not just planted and easy to drive.
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Old 06-30-2004, 09:46 AM   #7669
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1 more quick question. What is the difference between using the adjustable layshaft and a dedicated front one-way?

I have never used a one-way on any car but have always wanted to try.

A guy at the track that has run an XRay for a long time said that you could use the layshaft to periodically get "used to running a one-way" instead of going all out from the beginning. I am wanting to try one or the other next month when I get some money and am just wondering which would be the best one to start with?

If it matters I run on a largish outdoor asphault track (permanent track, not parking lot). 2 big sweepers and a long straight with a fair amount of hairpins and switchbacks.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-30-2004, 10:27 AM   #7670
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Dones anyone know if and what is the part number for a complete set of Xray bearings? Thanks
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Old 06-30-2004, 10:52 AM   #7671
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Quote:
Originally posted by Formula1fan
Dones anyone know if and what is the part number for a complete set of Xray bearings? Thanks
Here you go:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...?kategoria=360
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:02 AM   #7672
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Has anyone used the graphite shock towers on the Racer Composite kit? Do they fit? Are there any mods that need to be made?
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:04 AM   #7673
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John, they will work. However you may have to shim the shock mounting positions so you won't get obtuse angles.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:10 AM   #7674
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Talking Mr. Heat

Come on John, steep up and buy the BMI chassis I've heard alot of great things about it. Oh ya, from you. What tires are you running at scotts?

John S.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:15 AM   #7675
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Quote:
Originally posted by R.C.R.
Come on John, steep up and buy the BMI chassis I've heard alot of great things about it. Oh ya, from you. What tires are you running at scotts?

John S.
I had that chassis until that freak accident

As for tires, CS27's work great in the morning but later in the day they get loose after a few laps (get hott) Howard, Alex and Robert have been using Sorex 36's med insert (i think) and are hooked up all day!
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:33 PM   #7676
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Sweet, thats what I ended up with. I tried 32 but they got loose about half way. Has anyone Tried anything harder?

See Ya,
John S
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:33 PM   #7677
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Sweet, thats what I ended up with. I tried 32 but they got loose about half way. Has anyone Tried anything harder?

See Ya,
John S
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:34 PM   #7678
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Talking found my problem!

I found my problem! I had the front dif tightened to allow very minimal dif action, esentually making it a dif. well I guess the lenght is affected by this because there is a slight side to side motion allowed to the dif from the bulkheads. this is why I was getting a rattleing noise. Duh!!! so lesson learned. if you want a spool get one or lock dif/oneway with jb weld.

By the way has anyone made a spool of a dif sucessfuly?
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:47 PM   #7679
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yes, I used the spring steel version and removed the balls and then just crank it tight. I felt that teh duraluminum was just not going to hold up to the stress a spool puts on a diff.
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Old 06-30-2004, 12:52 PM   #7680
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Default Re: found my problem!

Quote:
Originally posted by scmicromike
I found my problem! I had the front dif tightened to allow very minimal dif action, esentually making it a dif. well I guess the lenght is affected by this because there is a slight side to side motion allowed to the dif from the bulkheads. this is why I was getting a rattleing noise. Duh!!! so lesson learned. if you want a spool get one or lock dif/oneway with jb weld.

By the way has anyone made a spool of a dif sucessfuly?
Did you use header card stock on the rings to take up the slack you would leave by removing the diff balls?If not you it will be too narrow and then you would have to shim the assembly to take the play out.Easiest thing is to by a spool assembly and call it a day.

What parts are you guys that are running spools wearing out?
CVD's or outdrives or both?
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