dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

that was probably because the T1R has so much flex.


The Factory Kit bearings dont need to be touch. They are ultra smooth and spin very freely, you dont need to flush and re oil them until they are gritty. The seals on the new bearings dont falloff like the old ones used too.

I ran my car on 26mm foams on asphalt, as we are allowed to in Australia. the land of open tire and motor choice

HEWITT

iTrader: (14)

do you think that the bmi xray really helps it the the stock one

HEWITT

iTrader: (14)

i mean does it help it more with the bmi chassis then the stock one

HEWITT

iTrader: (14)

do you think the xray have proved it self to be the best car or is it still working on it

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

there isnt much to improve on performance wise because they are so adjustable, they can suit any condition. as a kit they should include swaybars (full set) full spring sets, and spring steel wheel axles (rear ones to put in the front c-hubs).

here is an idea you can try, take 1mm off the front and rear of the front arms and take up the slack with 1mm castor clips, just adds some more finetuning to the chassis.

RandyB

iTrader: (2)

I agree with the sway bars. they really should include at least one thickness!!!

sands

I've got some long arm parts and pivot ball parts for sale. Head on over to the "for Sale" section. There has to be somebody still running long arms or pivot ball setup...

Pace72

iTrader: (2)

Sand..i was running around .5-1mm in front and 1-1.5mm in the rear for droop

for the akerman i was running inside hole on the saver and outer hole on the steering block

for the shock oil i m running #3piston in front with 30wt trinity oil....#4piston on rear with 30wt trinity with Associated copper spring all around(25lbs)

i run saddle pack on the back

front diff is tighter than rear

outside hole on fron tower....for camber link i m running outside hole and down

outside hole on rear tower...camber link in on the hub and standard on the bulkhead

0 kick up front middle hole on bulkehard caster block 3deg
1.5 antisquat middle hole back and up in front of the rear arm

front sway bar 1mm

tire jaco orange purple front and purple rear

for the tweak issue i will check the next time i will run my car..maybe my screw was not tight...but i doubt about that!!

Pace

sands

If it doesn't turn in fast enough, that usually means the front is not transitioning fast enough or not enough weight is moving to the front.

It matters where it is not transitioning. If it is initial turning of the wheel or if is the 1st third of the corner after the initial turn of the wheel. The initial bite is a contact patch problem with the front tires. Otherwise it is probably a weight transfer problem.

Try running more rear droop to allow more back to front weight transfer. Or running slightly softer front damping and laying down the shocks a hole. Removing the sway might also do it although that is more a mid-corner effect, not so much on entry as it will need to load up for a fraction of a second before it starts to work. Running slightly more front camber will also do it since more of the softer purple will be exposed to the carpet rather then the orange ring.

What is your rear toe? Try taking a mm shim out. Although this will also make it squirley on exit. I've also heard (but not tried) adding front kick back. Like rear toe adjustment, but with the front carriers on the front suspension.

some front kick up will also improve the turn in. It allows more weight transfer to the front on throttle lift.

barnacle

iTrader: (9)

new92,

I am assuming you ran at TQ Hobbies on Friday, correct? If so, I can give some suggestions because I am familiar with the surface and layout. The track has tons of traction and is very abrasive.

Make sure you are running 0 kickup and 3 degrees of caster.

Try standing up rear shocks (make sure you are in outer hole in arm) and close some pistons.

Run antisquat in rear

Move front shocks to position #2 (middle) and open some pistons.

You should end up running baby blue and/or blue springs or some combination of them.

When you can, try a few of these suggestions and it should help at that track.

John Malin

Mike let me know by e-mail tonight what you need for your xray @ my e-mail address.

new92

Thanks alot for the info Barnacle. I didnt run at TQ (but I am making a trip there soon). I was at HobbyWorld in Jax....outdoor asphault. I will have to double check tomorrow what all my settings were since I dont have the car in front of me. I know I ended up with yellow front springs and did try moving the shocks.

I will post the complete setup tomorrow. My next move suggested by the 2 fastest guys out there was to take some rear toe out and/or stiffen the rear springs.
I was going to play around with the piston openings this week also.
Thanks for any tips though. Like I said earlier, even with the push I still turned a faster qual time than I did with the TC3. I love this car and as soon as I find the setup I have a feeling it is going to be FAST.
Heck, I just found out tonight that one of the other guys at the track ordered an X Ray this week too after seeing mine

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

I know for stock the guys around here run 1* rear toe in at all times for stock. We've also all gone to the long wheelbase.

Blake

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

i might try the 1* toe, whats the long wheel base? is that the longest wheelbase?

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

Spacers all in front of the rear arms.