R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-11-2004, 11:38 PM   #6751
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,721
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

that was probably because the T1R has so much flex.


The Factory Kit bearings dont need to be touch. They are ultra smooth and spin very freely, you dont need to flush and re oil them until they are gritty. The seals on the new bearings dont falloff like the old ones used too.

I ran my car on 26mm foams on asphalt, as we are allowed to in Australia. the land of open tire and motor choice
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 11:49 PM   #6752
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: California
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

do you think that the bmi xray really helps it the the stock one
HEWITT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 11:50 PM   #6753
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: California
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

i mean does it help it more with the bmi chassis then the stock one
HEWITT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2004, 11:51 PM   #6754
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: California
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

do you think the xray have proved it self to be the best car or is it still working on it
HEWITT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 12:02 AM   #6755
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,721
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

there isnt much to improve on performance wise because they are so adjustable, they can suit any condition. as a kit they should include swaybars (full set) full spring sets, and spring steel wheel axles (rear ones to put in the front c-hubs).

here is an idea you can try, take 1mm off the front and rear of the front arms and take up the slack with 1mm castor clips, just adds some more finetuning to the chassis.
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 06:22 AM   #6756
Tech Master
 
RandyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Columbus OH.
Posts: 1,171
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I agree with the sway bars. they really should include at least one thickness!!!
RandyB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 07:37 AM   #6757
Tech Addict
 
sands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Iowa
Posts: 620
Default

I've got some long arm parts and pivot ball parts for sale. Head on over to the "for Sale" section. There has to be somebody still running long arms or pivot ball setup...
sands is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 02:30 PM   #6758
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Drummondville, Quebec
Posts: 150
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Sand..i was running around .5-1mm in front and 1-1.5mm in the rear for droop

for the akerman i was running inside hole on the saver and outer hole on the steering block

for the shock oil i m running #3piston in front with 30wt trinity oil....#4piston on rear with 30wt trinity with Associated copper spring all around(25lbs)

i run saddle pack on the back

front diff is tighter than rear

outside hole on fron tower....for camber link i m running outside hole and down

outside hole on rear tower...camber link in on the hub and standard on the bulkhead

0 kick up front middle hole on bulkehard caster block 3deg
1.5 antisquat middle hole back and up in front of the rear arm

front sway bar 1mm

tire jaco orange purple front and purple rear

for the tweak issue i will check the next time i will run my car..maybe my screw was not tight...but i doubt about that!!

Pace
Pace72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 05:52 PM   #6759
Tech Addict
 
sands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Iowa
Posts: 620
Default Pace72....

If it doesn't turn in fast enough, that usually means the front is not transitioning fast enough or not enough weight is moving to the front.

It matters where it is not transitioning. If it is initial turning of the wheel or if is the 1st third of the corner after the initial turn of the wheel. The initial bite is a contact patch problem with the front tires. Otherwise it is probably a weight transfer problem.

Try running more rear droop to allow more back to front weight transfer. Or running slightly softer front damping and laying down the shocks a hole. Removing the sway might also do it although that is more a mid-corner effect, not so much on entry as it will need to load up for a fraction of a second before it starts to work. Running slightly more front camber will also do it since more of the softer purple will be exposed to the carpet rather then the orange ring.

What is your rear toe? Try taking a mm shim out. Although this will also make it squirley on exit. I've also heard (but not tried) adding front kick back. Like rear toe adjustment, but with the front carriers on the front suspension.

some front kick up will also improve the turn in. It allows more weight transfer to the front on throttle lift.

Last edited by sands; 04-12-2004 at 09:21 PM.
sands is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 08:35 PM   #6760
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: FL
Posts: 1,604
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

new92,

I am assuming you ran at TQ Hobbies on Friday, correct? If so, I can give some suggestions because I am familiar with the surface and layout. The track has tons of traction and is very abrasive.

Make sure you are running 0 kickup and 3 degrees of caster.

Try standing up rear shocks (make sure you are in outer hole in arm) and close some pistons.

Run antisquat in rear

Move front shocks to position #2 (middle) and open some pistons.

You should end up running baby blue and/or blue springs or some combination of them.

When you can, try a few of these suggestions and it should help at that track.
__________________
Mike Dobbs
barnacle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 08:42 PM   #6761
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,006
Default

Mike let me know by e-mail tonight what you need for your xray @ my e-mail address.
John Malin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2004, 10:56 PM   #6762
Tech Regular
 
new92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Middleburg (Jax), FL
Posts: 356
Default

Thanks alot for the info Barnacle. I didnt run at TQ (but I am making a trip there soon). I was at HobbyWorld in Jax....outdoor asphault. I will have to double check tomorrow what all my settings were since I dont have the car in front of me. I know I ended up with yellow front springs and did try moving the shocks.

I will post the complete setup tomorrow. My next move suggested by the 2 fastest guys out there was to take some rear toe out and/or stiffen the rear springs.
I was going to play around with the piston openings this week also.
Thanks for any tips though. Like I said earlier, even with the push I still turned a faster qual time than I did with the TC3. I love this car and as soon as I find the setup I have a feeling it is going to be FAST.
Heck, I just found out tonight that one of the other guys at the track ordered an X Ray this week too after seeing mine
new92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2004, 06:37 AM   #6763
Tech Elite
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,503
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

I know for stock the guys around here run 1* rear toe in at all times for stock. We've also all gone to the long wheelbase.

Blake
__________________
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2004, 11:12 AM   #6764
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,721
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

i might try the 1* toe, whats the long wheel base? is that the longest wheelbase?
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2004, 11:24 AM   #6765
Tech Elite
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,503
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Spacers all in front of the rear arms.
__________________
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS - NEW !!!! XRAY NT18T and XRAY NT18 plus HUDY micro truck starter box w/ battery Omarko Australia For Sale/Trade 2 06-25-2008 08:47 PM
Xray T2, Brushed Motor Combo, Setup Tools, Xray Springs, Bodies etc... GroffBall R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 13 09-23-2007 08:53 PM
WTB: NIB Xray T1FK05 & Xray Teflon coated aluminum Shock Body Adam.A Australia Wanted to Buy 4 01-02-2007 03:30 PM
WTB: Xray T1FK05 & Xray Teflon coated aluminum Shock Body Adam.A R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 12-30-2006 03:26 PM
XRAY sedan spring kit / XRAY multi-diff / PRS 114t spur / RR 64p pinions / Stratus evostyle R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 6 12-19-2006 09:33 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:54 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net