sands

There are a bunch of us at my track that run xrays. My setup seems to be the stiffest with 40lbs front and 35(?) lb rear springs 50wt front with all holes closed and 40wt rear with 2 clicks on the shocks.

Other guys run essentially the stock setup, maybe a little stiffer. I didn't like it because the car really leaned into the corners and came close the traction rolling.

Is this a driving style thing or is there a benefit to running a softer setup with more angled and shorter camber links? When my car is working (not consistent, still learning TCs on carpet. 1st season in about 10 years...) I can turn within 2 laps of TQ and show in the A main.

pucho?

Kennedy

The way I see it the lower the ration the closer it gets to 1:1. Direct drive is the most effcient drive train and the closer you can get to direct drive the better

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

Kennedy,
What pinion and gear set up do you have with the 5800ss? What run time you get the the 3300s and how does the 5800ss set up run against 19T motors. What are you motor and esc temps after a 5 min run?

Kennedy

Rollout Between 28.5 - 30. 15 mins just with GP33's. Smashes 19t motors. Have never taking temps. I just gear to thermal shutdown so it kicks in about 8 min mark.

I run standard gearing on 48 pitch so about 90 Spur and 28 pinion

I also run a 5V fan if I take the gearing up to 30-32

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

is a futaba 9451 over kill or not enough power for a T1R. Will it be tooo heavy, will it fit in the car, to slow of a servo?

The T1Rs will be for club racing only with a brushless systems.


One is for myself, some experiance racing with a 5800ss
one is for my wife, no racing experiance with a 4300ss

Both cars will be T1Rs'.

Kennedy

Sounds like a perfect set up. The futaba 9451 is an awesome all round digital servo and if you all ready have one then use it bu don't gop spending money on one until you wanna take it to the next level

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

kennedy,
I have several from my nitro car. Putting the 1/8 scale away for the time so I can race electric with my wife. Thanks for the quick response, 9541 it will be.

Kennedy

No probs. You must have one of teh 0.0000001% of wives that actually enjoy playing toy cars as much as us guys

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

So far Im very lucky, hope things dont change too much..

KMW

iTrader: (11)

I think this is mostly driving style. You probably carry more speed than these other drivers do entering corners. So for you a softer setup, which provides more traction, is too much traction potentially causing traction rolls. The other drivers with the softer setups are probably entering the corners slower and/or smoother, shifting less weight, or lowering the rate of weight transfer, and therefore not having a problem with traction rolling. The question is: are you over driving the car and needing a stiffer (too stiff?) setup to compensate for it, or are the other drivers under driving their cars, i.e. not carrying enough corner speed? This is sometimes answered by who's faster...

My understanding is that you want the car to be as stiff as possible, yet still be able to handle bumps and have enough traction to carry good corner speed. Too stiff and you'll probably need to slow down to avoid loosing too much stability and/or your car won't handle bumps well. Too soft and the car will roll more putting more load on the tires--this can also cause the tires to break loose and make the car unstable, or do just the opposite and cause a traction roll. Again, you'll need to slow down in order to keep the car in check.

There's another part to this which is drivability. A softer car is usually easier to drive because it reacts slower. For many people this is a "faster" setup because it can help them run consistent lap times. A stiffer car is generally quicker, provided it's not too stiff for the surface, but it can be harder to drive because it reacts faster (commonly referred to as "twitchy"). This type of setup can make a driver "slow" because they're making too many mistakes--or they have to slow down too much to avoid making those mistakes. Someone who can drive what you might consider a "twitchy" car fast and consistent is usually a person you're trying to catch.

So you want you car to be setup such that it can be driven consistently (i.e. easy to drive for your skill level), yet still be quick. For some people this is a setup on the stiffer side and for others it's on the softer side. (I often see newer drivers find and stick with a "soft" setup because the car is handling well and is easy to drive, so they assume it's as fast as it's going to get...) Part of being a fast driver is being really smooth and limiting weight transfer. This gives you more traction than other drivers, given the same or similar tires, allowing you to run stiffer setups and thus be able to carry more corner speed...

It would be great to get some comments/corrections from Alex Lopez on this topic! Alex?

GoldFinger

This sound more logical to me...
Being use 710 for about 3 gallon (almost 6-7hours) with no bearing maintenance.

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

all the guys up the a main mod final at the US champs were running 28mm foams. i might cut down some 30mm rears to see what happens on ashphalt.

ccm399

iTrader: (8)

Hey Joneser if you come up on thurs. would you mind bringing a set of 6* caster blocks? Let me know. Thanks Chris

True R/C Racing

wow, fromt eh factory kits of xray they are testing new chassis At 3.5 mm thick and 4.0 mm thick Don't know if they already posted this. If They did Sorry.

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

ultra stiff chassis, the less chassis twist the better