Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree3Likes

Xray T1

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-29-2003, 05:28 PM
  #5551  
Tech Fanatic
 
pucho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Central, FL
Posts: 804
Default

I say T1r with solid Carbon top deck and Front Carpet tower, Cheap, and fast!
pucho is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 05:33 PM
  #5552  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,828
Default

so ur saying my evo isnt good? .. hah i havent gotten that carpet shocktower. does it make a diff?
True R/C Racing is offline  
Old 12-29-2003, 10:03 PM
  #5553  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
 
Oasis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: * Sin Cal *
Posts: 11,013
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

I was told that the T1R's chassis is stiffer(with the graphite top brace) than the evo's is,what I have seen is most racers use the T1R's chassis and put the graphite brace and towers on it.
Oasis is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 05:05 AM
  #5554  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,828
Trader Rating: 95 (100%+)
Default

I just switched from the T1R to the EVO2. Put the exact same setup on the new one. Car feels exactly the same to me. The difference in the chassis for your average stock racer is not that huge.

One thing I did like about the T1R that I didn't realize I liked till I got the EVO2 was the battery mounting. In the EVO2, the battery posts are so close together it's a pain to get the batteries in and out. The T1R was MUCH easier. Not a huge deal but different.

Anyone with an EVO2 that wants to try the T1R chassis give me a shout. I've got one sitting here with a spare set of bulkheads I'm not using.
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 05:26 AM
  #5555  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,617
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Best carpet X-Ray by Far is a C-hub equipped T1 chassis, though Ray Huang now has an excellent chassis conversion set-up by the Warpspeed guys for sale. It's even stiffer than a T1 chassis.
CypressMidWest is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 05:28 AM
  #5556  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,828
Trader Rating: 95 (100%+)
Default

What's up Ian? You coming down to Ultra's New Years Race?
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 06:07 AM
  #5557  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,617
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I'm gonna try. I'll probably just run 12th scale. The little car's so much fun to drive.
CypressMidWest is offline  
Old 12-30-2003, 08:39 PM
  #5558  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (3)
 
BHenderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 1,199
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

OMG we were demoted to the SECOND PAGE!!!! but, I fixed that
BHenderson is offline  
Old 12-31-2003, 08:20 AM
  #5559  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,828
Trader Rating: 95 (100%+)
Default

I was talking with a racer at the track this weekend after I had broken a plastic shock body. He said that the aluminum shock bodies aren't as smooth as the plastic ones. That the pistons actually bind up more in the aluminum bodies.

Has anyone experienced this problem?
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline  
Old 12-31-2003, 08:35 AM
  #5560  
Tech Regular
 
fowlerJr68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 263
Default

Yes, But when you get the aluminum shock bodies, u take the bottom cap off and file down the piston untill it's able to drop to the bottom of the shock body only by using gravity. After I did that, i haven't had a problem yet.

Steve
fowlerJr68 is offline  
Old 01-01-2004, 12:09 PM
  #5561  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 277
Default

Hey guys, I am also new to EP onroad and am considering the Evo2.
Can someone tell me the difference between EVO2 and T1R besides the chassis stiffness?
Also, can someone tell me the pros and cons of belt drive cars vs shaft drive cars? I ask this because I am not really set on Xray yet, as I am still looking at the Yok, Tamiya and Losi...
Thanks yall!
lawndoggie is offline  
Old 01-01-2004, 12:15 PM
  #5562  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,828
Default

To wHat i understand.. The Evo2 is A Stiffer Chassis And Top deck thats it. Also If you Buy Foc You get The choice of two setups C Hubs, Or Pivot. For Belt Vs shaft I Dont know much just know shaft Is more torque i believe Dont Quote me on that also shaft gives you torque steering to the most part.
True R/C Racing is offline  
Old 01-01-2004, 01:24 PM
  #5563  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,198
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

shaft will get you out of the corners a little faster. The belt will take a little bit longer to get out of the corners.

As far as evo2 and t1r, Most guys like the t1r chassis with the evo2 stiff upper deck. This combination is the most stiff, unless you can find a t1 chassis. Also, most of the fast guys are using most of the evo2 stuff on and just changing out the chassis to the t1r. The evo 2 shock towers have more tunability. They are also liking the t1r front anti roll bars better then the blade style.

So as far as Xray, if you want to do these upgrade, then get the evo2 and then get the t1r chassis, battery brace, and front uppper bumper mounts. But the t1r is a good car as is. You just loose some of the tunability that the evo2 gives you. You can try going the other way, but I think it is more expensive to get the same car starting with the t1r kit.
theisgroup is offline  
Old 01-01-2004, 01:27 PM
  #5564  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,828
Default

Yea I just got my Evo2 Its Not fully Built yet But 2 days ago i abught the tir chassis. Just for switch See Which i like better, And later Buyign the stiffer Top Deck, And Front carpet tower
True R/C Racing is offline  
Old 01-01-2004, 01:39 PM
  #5565  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 147
Default

The arguement between shaft and belt is seemingly endless. The basic theory is that shaft drives are faster because they have less drag. When the TC3 originally shipped (years ago), this was definitely true because the TC3 was being compared to the triple belt driven Street Weapon. The belt drive cars today have a lot less drag than those old school Street Weapon cars. For example, the XRay with two very effeciently designed belts has far less drag than the old Street Weapons.

With the low ratio pulleys and the narrow rear belt, the XRay is just as punchy as any shaft drive car I have seen. Obviously there is nothing wrong with XRay's drivetrain, since an XRay won stock class at the most recent Cleveland race.

The other issue is balance. It is a lot harder to properly balance a shaft drive car from left to right than it is to balance out a belt car. It is braindead simple to get the XRay balanced. On the TC3, you may need to dremel the battery slots and slide the cells to get the car balanced. And even after you balance the TC3, the amount of torque steer that the car has will upset the balance. The XRay suffers no torque steer issues, so balance is consistent.

After racing with both shaft and belt cars, I can honestly say without a doubt that shaft drives are not an advantage at all. Belt drives are just as fast, and belt drives do not suffer from torque steer. I drove a FTTC3 before I switched to XRay, and I have been faster and more consistent with the XRay.
Shiloh is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.