Xray T1
#466
Tech Adept
Greg: Yup, that's me. I'm gonna have to get with you on that Xray. I haven't given up all hope just yet.
#467
Ok,cool. Bring it in and between Buster and my self, we'll get the car working. My car felt slow through the turns but everyone I talked to that watched my car said I was flyin in the turns and looked like a pig on the straight. It's really hard to see what a car is doing when your on the stand. All you can go by is feel. Right now my car is softer in the front then in the rear and I have the 2mm bar on the back and none on the front. Plus I'm compounding 1/2 the front. In mod, I'd have to go all but full comp. on the front just to make the car steer.
#468
How many people run T1's at MEMEs
#469
Big D, I'd say about a dozen.
I dout I'll be able to race for the next few weeks due to the holidays. I'm going to try to practice on some of the days I'll be off. The car was close already, just need to fine tune. Alittle more HP would help!!!
I dout I'll be able to race for the next few weeks due to the holidays. I'm going to try to practice on some of the days I'll be off. The car was close already, just need to fine tune. Alittle more HP would help!!!
#470
Tech Adept
Greg: Yeah...hp would be nice. I've decided that I'm gonna run my T1 in mod for the Trinity race. My losi is just working so much better and I have a much better chance in stock anyways.
#471
The new spring steel wheel hub hexes are really nice. For those of you worried about the weight.... this is not an issue, they are about the same weight as the original units. The major difference is the "damn good looks!", super strength and the PRICE!
#472
Tech Adept
dtm - What does "about the same weight" mean? Just curious if you have weighed them.
#473
I would weigh the hubs on a postage letter scale. I like the looks of the hub and how we will benefit from running them when crashes are concerned, but I have no real demand for them.
It has been a month since I ran my T1 and it sits in pieces. I noticed on one of the hubs, where the axle made contact with the hub, it is missing 1/3 of the lip so I have to set the clip on in a manner that its open end is not resting where the lip is missing.
I only need a single hub but would go for the spring steel hubs if the permanent track is postponed. I clip the boards during the turns in traffic. I guess I need to relax and wait for a better opportunity to pass.
It has been a month since I ran my T1 and it sits in pieces. I noticed on one of the hubs, where the axle made contact with the hub, it is missing 1/3 of the lip so I have to set the clip on in a manner that its open end is not resting where the lip is missing.
I only need a single hub but would go for the spring steel hubs if the permanent track is postponed. I clip the boards during the turns in traffic. I guess I need to relax and wait for a better opportunity to pass.
#474
Originally posted by Dave Kurschner
dtm - What does "about the same weight" mean? Just curious if you have weighed them.
dtm - What does "about the same weight" mean? Just curious if you have weighed them.
#475
Tech Adept
Replace the screws? I had to add all the hopups to my car for it to make weight. I don't think it'll be needin Ti screws anytime soon....hehe
#476
Dave, me too.
#477
Tech Adept
But on the same taken, I don't want to add rotating mass either if I can avoid it. I don't know if the new axles are heavy or not but a lifetime warranty doesn't do me any good if I have a guarantee of going slower..hehe. I guess its kinda like running steel MIP CVD's verses aluminum CVD's in another car. I typically choose aluminum to try and minimize the mass.
I actually thought about drilling out the aluminum axles like the steel ones to reduce weight even further. But that would require more work than I wish to do right now.... (Knock on Wood) I still have yet to break anything on my XRay. I was involved in an accident that actually snapped one of the ears off of my Futaba 9450 servo but the car still remain in tact.
Buster's chuckling all the way to the bank with my spare parts orders that sit in my pit bag waiting to be used..lol But since the car's gaining some popularity at our track, and our LHS has pretty much just carried kits to this point, I don't mind having spare parts just incase somebody breaks.
I actually thought about drilling out the aluminum axles like the steel ones to reduce weight even further. But that would require more work than I wish to do right now.... (Knock on Wood) I still have yet to break anything on my XRay. I was involved in an accident that actually snapped one of the ears off of my Futaba 9450 servo but the car still remain in tact.
Buster's chuckling all the way to the bank with my spare parts orders that sit in my pit bag waiting to be used..lol But since the car's gaining some popularity at our track, and our LHS has pretty much just carried kits to this point, I don't mind having spare parts just incase somebody breaks.
#478
Originally posted by Dave Kurschner
dtm - What does "about the same weight" mean? Just curious if you have weighed them.
dtm - What does "about the same weight" mean? Just curious if you have weighed them.
The weight of the original front hex is between 2-3 grams each(the letter scale I used could only go down to grams and sometimes it came up as 2 sometimes 3!)
The spring steel ones comes out at 4 grams each.
One other thing I noticed, the spring steel hexes are actually about 1mm shorter. ie the hex face does not protrude out so far! This will upset the track width and you may have some problems with some foam tires! We have had to add Assoc chassis protector onto the hex face to extend it out so the wheel does not rub against the plastic hubs!
However, at least I don't have to worry about 'filing' the hexs to remove then for bearing clean now!!!
#479
One more thing. For those waiting for the 'twist' upper deck! I think you can forget it! Had a look at one last night.
In the original prototype Xray appear to use the same ball and socket joint as the battery bars. In the final production they use 3mm screws with metal collars to bridge the centre piece. I'm not sure but 'I think' the graphite plate may be thicker (maybe?!). I reckon the average Xray driver can do a better or equivalent conversion of the original upper deck without too much pain and a lot less cost!
In the original prototype Xray appear to use the same ball and socket joint as the battery bars. In the final production they use 3mm screws with metal collars to bridge the centre piece. I'm not sure but 'I think' the graphite plate may be thicker (maybe?!). I reckon the average Xray driver can do a better or equivalent conversion of the original upper deck without too much pain and a lot less cost!
#480
;o) <--------"me laughing all the way to the bank"
LOL!
Sorry Dave, just had to do it!
I have that VCD for you, so when you need to order more parts (hehehe) I will include the VCD as well. LOL!!!!
I will try to get it out to you next week.
LOL!
Sorry Dave, just had to do it!
I have that VCD for you, so when you need to order more parts (hehehe) I will include the VCD as well. LOL!!!!
I will try to get it out to you next week.