Originally Posted by nerdling

I've had the same problem with the XRAY Gear Diffs in my T3 2011.... My fix was to change to 50mm drive shafts.

Originally Posted by nerdling

I assume these are the double jointed (or ECS Drive Shafts in XRAY speak). ... The only fix here is the purchase the correct C Hub.

Originally Posted by hondawong

Orignal Box T3, Xray Drive Shaft 52mm - Hudy Spring Steel from front move to rear if buy Equalized Corner Speed (ECS) Drive Shaft 50mm - Hudy Spring Steel for front , no problem? Xray Alu Drive Shaft Swiss 7075 T6 - Hard Coated - 52mm ( REAR ) remove before use Drive Shaft 52mm - Hudy Spring Steel ( rear ).. or FRONT ECS and REAR Alu Drive Shaft Swiss? remove drive shaft - hudy spring steel? Any advise...

Originally Posted by locked

The spec-r diffs tend to leak more than the x-ray ones when used as a rear diff. Not generally as smooth either. They'll work perfectly fine for a front diff with heavy oil, putty or diff lock in them though. For the rear, I'd recommend an XRAY gear diff. They're worth the extra $$

Originally Posted by 303slowdown

more weight on either end means more weight to transfer to the other end ex.more weight on front means on acceleration more wight is transferd to the rear=more rear grip, more weight on the rear means on braking or deceleration more weight is tranferd to the front=more stearing
hope that helps

Originally Posted by bobseagull

Getting back into on road have 2010 t3 with very little use, can get second hand 2012 with spare chassis for 300 dollars should I get 2012 and have 2010 as spares or upgrade 2010

Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya

Hmmm, Good question! I think shoot for the 2012 but look around and you might get one for around $250.00!

Originally Posted by vivo quevas

I agree with josh 2012 is a much better car it is still competitive and many of the modern designs of later model cars. It is a fundamentally sound race car!
I found this one on RCtech it has a exotech conversion for $300!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...some-deal.html

Originally Posted by Bikerbob

Hope this gets read


T3 2011 rebuild questions

Hey people, trying to get my car ready for the fall.

Question about the hinge pins and shimming.

Following the build instructions it says a 1mm shim in front and behind on the front suspension - this leaves a heck of a lot of slop for the front arms to move.. I always remember this being a bad thing.. is there something I am missing here? The back shows 5mm worth of adjustment for wheelbase.

I also note that Xray talks about 5mm worth of wheelbase adjust with the rear, but does not talk about adjustment in the front.. is this on purpose.. is there a reason you would not want to shorten from the front?

I bought this car used, so there are things I am finding out during the re-build, and I noticed the pin supports are using the lowest setting lowering the roll center, is this good ozite carpet setup? or should I go back to neutral, I dont think high roll centers for a smallish ozite track is good.. I figure I need more response.

thanks

James