Originally Posted by Skiddins

The +75 holders can sometimes reduce grip but should increase the steering reaction time.

Try narrowing the front track at the wishbones to 1.15mm shims

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO

What body are you running? And are you running the chassis posts?

Originally Posted by sidecarphil1

mazda6 body

tried the R9-r and that made the car too nervous overall

and i have all the posts removed and all the flex screws out of the top deck

Originally Posted by ballsagna

i looked at your set up posted april 5. here are some general comments on that set up (in the order that i looked at them on the setup sheet):

make sure that you try your current set up with new tires. also, make sure all of your shocks are exactly the same length. you might as well throw your car in the dumpster if you tires are compromised or your shocks vary in length. you will chase a set up forever.

once you try a new set of tires and get all your shocks the same length, consider the following:

Originally Posted by ballsagna

this might help you get closer to a base set up. from there you can adjust the chassis flex and kickup, etc. good luck

Originally Posted by sidecarphil1

steering throw is 35 degrees left and right

EXPO is 0%

Dual rate is 100%



why ?? i dont use this way of measurement



wheelbase is standard as kit recomends



ok but i have always run 1 degree toe out , will this give me more high speed steering ??



to what ?? forward or backwards and why ??



ok



this is a bit too much i think



again why , this will increase rear grip , i have enough of this



again why ?? the option arms are better than the stock ones i think



again why ?? they work better than the Xray springs , but i do have the 2.2's , 2.4's , 2.6's , 2.8's and the 3.0's which do you recomend



i only have 25% rebound and this is ok i think



already at the high position



the diff was rebuild last week , it is smooth and loose but doesn't slip no bind ing on the CVD's or wheel bearings , the car is WELL LOOKED AFTER !!!



ok thanks for the suggestions please answer my questions I just like to know why I am asked to change some thing before i do it , it is just the way i am

Thanks again Phil

Originally Posted by ballsagna

my feeling is that you have quite a few things working against each other. for example, you have small amounts of camber (so you probably have good forward bite generated by the tires on straights , but less side grip generated by the tires in turns). therefore you are removing screws from the topdeck to add grip in turns. that overcompensates so you add more dual rate or ackerman, etc.

in my opinion, removing screws from the topdeck is probably the worst change to make on this car. it gets lazy, pushes, has too much grip, etc. throw all the screws in the top deck and see what happens. then start trying some of the changes that have been suggested.

anyway... my suggestions were just to try to get you a little closer to the set up other racers are running or more familiar with...might make it easier for all of us internet setup kings (or queens) to help fix your issue, without actually seeing or driving your car.

Originally Posted by sidecarphil1

mazda6 body

tried the R9-r and that made the car too nervous overall

and i have all the posts removed and all the flex screws out of the top deck

Originally Posted by ByteStream

Fairly new and just started to build my T3. Did everyone sand and CA the edges of the chassis. Xray says they sanded the edges smooth, but wondering if it is recommended to 'round' the edges and apply CA, or do you think the factory sanding is good enough?

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO

I sand all the edges so there smooth and on the bottom of the chassis bevel it so it's really nice and smooth

I ca'd all the countersunk holes but I didn't ca the whole chassis. It will look better if you ca it but I wouldn't say it's completely needed

Originally Posted by ByteStream

Did you sand, bevel and CA the battery slots and all the internal cutouts in the chassis? How about the top deck? Would sanding, beveling and CA affect the flex?

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO

I didnt touch the battery slots. I did sand the tape slots though. But on the chassis all I did were the outside edges

I sanded the top deck and shock towers also but I didnt ca those either, I just used loc tite. But no sanding and sealing those wont affect anything. Some do, and some dont. I used to seal everything with ca and stopped, and havent had issues with anything since. It always bugged me because id have glue run off the edge and it would be all over the chassis

Originally Posted by adri-13

i drive with the mazdaspeed 6 . The car is more healthly with the mazdaspeed 6 than the mazda 6. But with the mazda 6 you have more directivity in low speed.