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Old 04-09-2010, 07:45 PM   #1906
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The +75 holders can sometimes reduce grip but should increase the steering reaction time.

Try narrowing the front track at the wishbones to 1.15mm shims
Give the +0.75 a try. I suspect you'll end up taking dual rate out of your steering.

I wouldnt recommend using softer front springs when going up in oil weight unless your track is bumpy.
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Last edited by hanulec; 04-09-2010 at 07:47 PM. Reason: typos
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:08 PM   #1907
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This is the first car I've owned that allows you to raise or lower the front and rear diff.

Can someone explain how lowering or raising the diff affects the car?
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:40 PM   #1908
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What body are you running? And are you running the chassis posts?
mazda6 body

tried the R9-r and that made the car too nervous overall

and i have all the posts removed and all the flex screws out of the top deck
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Old 04-10-2010, 03:52 AM   #1909
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i drive with the mazdaspeed 6 . The car is more healthly with the mazdaspeed 6 than the mazda 6. But with the mazda 6 you have more directivity in low speed.
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:06 AM   #1910
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
mazda6 body

tried the R9-r and that made the car too nervous overall

and i have all the posts removed and all the flex screws out of the top deck
i looked at your set up posted april 5. here are some general comments on that set up (in the order that i looked at them on the setup sheet):

make sure that you try your current set up with new tires. also, make sure all of your shocks are exactly the same length. you might as well throw your car in the dumpster if you tires are compromised or your shocks vary in length. you will chase a set up forever.

once you try a new set of tires and get all your shocks the same length, consider the following:
  • steering throw/symetry/dual rate settings are useful. not sure why manufactureres dont have a place for this on set up. post them if you know them
  • indicate droop by distance in millimeters over ride height. the downstop setting itself is not enough, specifically with your use of HPI springs (see below). start with something safe like 1.5mm front and rear.
  • no indication of wheelbase - probably make it longer
  • too much front toe out
  • change inner ackerment position
  • increase track width both front and rear or indicate actual shimming
  • increase camber all around up to 2.5F and 3R
  • move upper rear shock to position 2
  • use the single hole arms all around
  • lose the HPI springs
  • drill pressure relief holes in shock caps
  • raise front and rear diffs
  • check for binding in rear CVDs at the diff as suggested a few pages back, or use short rear cvds

this might help you get closer to a base set up. from there you can adjust the chassis flex and kickup, etc. good luck
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:54 AM   #1911
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Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
i looked at your set up posted april 5. here are some general comments on that set up (in the order that i looked at them on the setup sheet):

make sure that you try your current set up with new tires. also, make sure all of your shocks are exactly the same length. you might as well throw your car in the dumpster if you tires are compromised or your shocks vary in length. you will chase a set up forever.

once you try a new set of tires and get all your shocks the same length, consider the following:
  • Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • steering throw/symetry/dual rate settings are useful. not sure why manufactureres dont have a place for this on set up. post them if you know them
  • steering throw is 35 degrees left and right

    EXPO is 0%

    Dual rate is 100%

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • indicate droop by distance in millimeters over ride height. the downstop setting itself is not enough, specifically with your use of HPI springs (see below). start with something safe like 1.5mm front and rear.
  • why ?? i dont use this way of measurement

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • no indication of wheelbase - probably make it longer
  • wheelbase is standard as kit recomends

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • too much front toe out
  • ok but i have always run 1 degree toe out , will this give me more high speed steering ??

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • change inner ackerment position
  • to what ?? forward or backwards and why ??

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • increase track width both front and rear or indicate actual shimming
  • ok

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • increase camber all around up to 2.5F and 3R
  • this is a bit too much i think

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • move upper rear shock to position 2
  • again why , this will increase rear grip , i have enough of this

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • use the single hole arms all around
  • again why ?? the option arms are better than the stock ones i think

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • lose the HPI springs
  • again why ?? they work better than the Xray springs , but i do have the 2.2's , 2.4's , 2.6's , 2.8's and the 3.0's which do you recomend

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • drill pressure relief holes in shock caps
  • i only have 25% rebound and this is ok i think

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • raise front and rear diffs
  • already at the high position

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
  • check for binding in rear CVDs at the diff as suggested a few pages back, or use short rear cvds
the diff was rebuild last week , it is smooth and loose but doesn't slip no bind ing on the CVD's or wheel bearings , the car is WELL LOOKED AFTER !!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ballsagna View Post
this might help you get closer to a base set up. from there you can adjust the chassis flex and kickup, etc. good luck
ok thanks for the suggestions please answer my questions I just like to know why I am asked to change some thing before i do it , it is just the way i am

Thanks again Phil
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Old 04-10-2010, 01:43 PM   #1912
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
steering throw is 35 degrees left and right

EXPO is 0%

Dual rate is 100%



why ?? i dont use this way of measurement



wheelbase is standard as kit recomends



ok but i have always run 1 degree toe out , will this give me more high speed steering ??



to what ?? forward or backwards and why ??



ok



this is a bit too much i think



again why , this will increase rear grip , i have enough of this



again why ?? the option arms are better than the stock ones i think



again why ?? they work better than the Xray springs , but i do have the 2.2's , 2.4's , 2.6's , 2.8's and the 3.0's which do you recomend



i only have 25% rebound and this is ok i think



already at the high position



the diff was rebuild last week , it is smooth and loose but doesn't slip no bind ing on the CVD's or wheel bearings , the car is WELL LOOKED AFTER !!!



ok thanks for the suggestions please answer my questions I just like to know why I am asked to change some thing before i do it , it is just the way i am

Thanks again Phil
my feeling is that you have quite a few things working against each other. for example, you have small amounts of camber (so you probably have good forward bite generated by the tires on straights , but less side grip generated by the tires in turns). therefore you are removing screws from the topdeck to add grip in turns. that overcompensates so you add more dual rate or ackerman, etc.

in my opinion, removing screws from the topdeck is probably the worst change to make on this car. it gets lazy, pushes, has too much grip, etc. throw all the screws in the top deck and see what happens. then start trying some of the changes that have been suggested.

anyway... my suggestions were just to try to get you a little closer to the set up other racers are running or more familiar with...might make it easier for all of us internet setup kings (or queens) to help fix your issue, without actually seeing or driving your car.
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Old 04-10-2010, 01:59 PM   #1913
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my feeling is that you have quite a few things working against each other. for example, you have small amounts of camber (so you probably have good forward bite generated by the tires on straights , but less side grip generated by the tires in turns). therefore you are removing screws from the topdeck to add grip in turns. that overcompensates so you add more dual rate or ackerman, etc.

in my opinion, removing screws from the topdeck is probably the worst change to make on this car. it gets lazy, pushes, has too much grip, etc. throw all the screws in the top deck and see what happens. then start trying some of the changes that have been suggested.

anyway... my suggestions were just to try to get you a little closer to the set up other racers are running or more familiar with...might make it easier for all of us internet setup kings (or queens) to help fix your issue, without actually seeing or driving your car.
ok thank you for your explination

i will change my whole set up to what you have suggested and report back ( if i win the A main i will send you the trophey )
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:19 PM   #1914
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mazda6 body

tried the R9-r and that made the car too nervous overall

and i have all the posts removed and all the flex screws out of the top deck
Ditch the mazda 6, that body is worthless IMO. Get a mazda speed, or a LTCR.

Put the flex screws back in the rear and the chassis posts, take the front post from behind the bell crank out and try that. If you need more steering lower your front roll center block (on the shock tower) to the lower inner hole. I havent seen your set up, but im running the 3rd notch for ackerman, 2 deg of camber all around, and .5 deg of toe out in the front with 2 deg of rear toe using the ltcr body. I have never had a car that steering like this while keeping the rear traction, its insane! I had absolutely NO push in mod

I had my car working pretty good today, I want to try a few other things and I will post the set up. Im really loving this car so far
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:42 PM   #1915
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Fairly new and just started to build my T3. Did everyone sand and CA the edges of the chassis. Xray says they sanded the edges smooth, but wondering if it is recommended to 'round' the edges and apply CA, or do you think the factory sanding is good enough?
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Old 04-12-2010, 11:29 AM   #1916
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Fairly new and just started to build my T3. Did everyone sand and CA the edges of the chassis. Xray says they sanded the edges smooth, but wondering if it is recommended to 'round' the edges and apply CA, or do you think the factory sanding is good enough?
I sand all the edges so there smooth and on the bottom of the chassis bevel it so it's really nice and smooth

I ca'd all the countersunk holes but I didn't ca the whole chassis. It will look better if you ca it but I wouldn't say it's completely needed
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:22 PM   #1917
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
I sand all the edges so there smooth and on the bottom of the chassis bevel it so it's really nice and smooth

I ca'd all the countersunk holes but I didn't ca the whole chassis. It will look better if you ca it but I wouldn't say it's completely needed
Did you sand, bevel and CA the battery slots and all the internal cutouts in the chassis? How about the top deck? Would sanding, beveling and CA affect the flex?
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:51 PM   #1918
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Did you sand, bevel and CA the battery slots and all the internal cutouts in the chassis? How about the top deck? Would sanding, beveling and CA affect the flex?
I didnt touch the battery slots. I did sand the tape slots though. But on the chassis all I did were the outside edges

I sanded the top deck and shock towers also but I didnt ca those either, I just used loc tite. But no sanding and sealing those wont affect anything. Some do, and some dont. I used to seal everything with ca and stopped, and havent had issues with anything since. It always bugged me because id have glue run off the edge and it would be all over the chassis
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:10 PM   #1919
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
I didnt touch the battery slots. I did sand the tape slots though. But on the chassis all I did were the outside edges

I sanded the top deck and shock towers also but I didnt ca those either, I just used loc tite. But no sanding and sealing those wont affect anything. Some do, and some dont. I used to seal everything with ca and stopped, and havent had issues with anything since. It always bugged me because id have glue run off the edge and it would be all over the chassis
Thanks for the info, i used the applicators in the link below .. worked really well .. they are like sponges and soak up the CA and don't drip.

Try these next time -
http://www.totalbeauty.com/reviews/p...up-applicators
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:29 PM   #1920
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i drive with the mazdaspeed 6 . The car is more healthly with the mazdaspeed 6 than the mazda 6. But with the mazda 6 you have more directivity in low speed.
i like the ltcr it handles really well
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