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Old 04-10-2012, 06:45 AM   #3406
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Mark, thanks for the answers!

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Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
I've had the same problem with the XRAY Gear Diffs in my T3 2011.... My fix was to change to 50mm drive shafts.
I guess this is the best options considering everything.

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Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
I assume these are the double jointed (or ECS Drive Shafts in XRAY speak). ... The only fix here is the purchase the correct C Hub.
Good. I just recieved the "narrow" one as a spare, I guess I'll order two more, for T3, this time .

Thanks,
Miha.
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:09 PM   #3407
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Default ECS

Orignal Box T3, Xray Drive Shaft 52mm - Hudy Spring Steel from front move to rear if buy Equalized Corner Speed (ECS) Drive Shaft 52mm - Hudy Spring Steel for front , no problem? Xray Alu Drive Shaft Swiss 7075 T6 - Hard Coated - 52mm ( REAR ) remove before use Drive Shaft 52mm - Hudy Spring Steel ( rear ).. or FRONT ECS and REAR Alu Drive Shaft Swiss? remove drive shaft - hudy spring steel? Any advise...

Last edited by hondawong; 07-12-2012 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:39 AM   #3408
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Originally Posted by hondawong View Post
Orignal Box T3, Xray Drive Shaft 52mm - Hudy Spring Steel from front move to rear if buy Equalized Corner Speed (ECS) Drive Shaft 50mm - Hudy Spring Steel for front , no problem? Xray Alu Drive Shaft Swiss 7075 T6 - Hard Coated - 52mm ( REAR ) remove before use Drive Shaft 52mm - Hudy Spring Steel ( rear ).. or FRONT ECS and REAR Alu Drive Shaft Swiss? remove drive shaft - hudy spring steel? Any advise...
50mm ECS up front and 50mm alum std axles in the rear.
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:09 PM   #3409
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
The spec-r diffs tend to leak more than the x-ray ones when used as a rear diff. Not generally as smooth either. They'll work perfectly fine for a front diff with heavy oil, putty or diff lock in them though. For the rear, I'd recommend an XRAY gear diff. They're worth the extra $$
I agree the X-Ray diffs are worth the extra dollars. They will not leak if built properly and they are 9.2 grams ready to roll and the Spec R diffs are 27 grams. Big difference!
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:24 PM   #3410
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
more weight on either end means more weight to transfer to the other end ex.more weight on front means on acceleration more wight is transferd to the rear=more rear grip, more weight on the rear means on braking or deceleration more weight is tranferd to the front=more stearing
hope that helps
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:00 AM   #3411
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Default ALU Steering Block and ALU C-Hubs?

DISREGARD. DELETE.

Last edited by saxo; 03-18-2013 at 10:08 AM. Reason: Found the answer.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:03 PM   #3412
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I bought a t3 2011 with what i think is a spec r rear diff and its messy!

can this diff be leak free or should a different diff be used that wont leak?

what weight oil is recommended for asphalt?

thanks
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:44 PM   #3413
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Default 2010t3 vs 2012

Getting back into on road have 2010 t3 with very little use, can get second hand 2012 with spare chassis for 300 dollars should I get 2012 and have 2010 as spares or upgrade 2010
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:16 PM   #3414
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Getting back into on road have 2010 t3 with very little use, can get second hand 2012 with spare chassis for 300 dollars should I get 2012 and have 2010 as spares or upgrade 2010
Hmmm, Good question! I think shoot for the 2012 but look around and you might get one for around $250.00!
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:49 PM   #3415
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Hmmm, Good question! I think shoot for the 2012 but look around and you might get one for around $250.00!
I agree with josh 2012 is a much better car it is still competitive and many of the modern designs of later model cars. It is a fundamentally sound race car!
I found this one on RCtech it has a exotech conversion for $300!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...some-deal.html
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:03 AM   #3416
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
I agree with josh 2012 is a much better car it is still competitive and many of the modern designs of later model cars. It is a fundamentally sound race car!
I found this one on RCtech it has a exotech conversion for $300!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...some-deal.html
Good one! Even better with exotek chassis. That's what I have by the way!
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:38 PM   #3417
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What's a good outdoor asphalt set up for vta?
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:05 PM   #3418
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Hope this gets read


T3 2011 rebuild questions

Hey people, trying to get my car ready for the fall.

Question about the hinge pins and shimming.

Following the build instructions it says a 1mm shim in front and behind on the front suspension - this leaves a heck of a lot of slop for the front arms to move.. I always remember this being a bad thing.. is there something I am missing here? The back shows 5mm worth of adjustment for wheelbase.

I also note that Xray talks about 5mm worth of wheelbase adjust with the rear, but does not talk about adjustment in the front.. is this on purpose.. is there a reason you would not want to shorten from the front?

I bought this car used, so there are things I am finding out during the re-build, and I noticed the pin supports are using the lowest setting lowering the roll center, is this good for Niagara? or should I go back to neutral, I dont think high roll centers at Niagara is the right setting?

thanks

James
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:06 PM   #3419
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dbl post sorry.
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Last edited by Bikerbob; 09-30-2013 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:34 AM   #3420
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Hope this gets read


T3 2011 rebuild questions

Hey people, trying to get my car ready for the fall.

Question about the hinge pins and shimming.

Following the build instructions it says a 1mm shim in front and behind on the front suspension - this leaves a heck of a lot of slop for the front arms to move.. I always remember this being a bad thing.. is there something I am missing here? The back shows 5mm worth of adjustment for wheelbase.

I also note that Xray talks about 5mm worth of wheelbase adjust with the rear, but does not talk about adjustment in the front.. is this on purpose.. is there a reason you would not want to shorten from the front?

I bought this car used, so there are things I am finding out during the re-build, and I noticed the pin supports are using the lowest setting lowering the roll center, is this good ozite carpet setup? or should I go back to neutral, I dont think high roll centers for a smallish ozite track is good.. I figure I need more response.

thanks

James
Definately go back to neutral for the rollcenters.
On the topic of wheelbase, most of the drivers i know keep it like the manual says so there's no need to meddle with that in most cases.
Plus i don't know how it affects the car as i never use it
The slop could be normal taking into consideration it's a used, 3 year old car. But it might be the roll center plastic thingies, they tend to get turned a bit away from the original mounting postion when you hit things (just open the screws and retighten while holding them in place and you should be able to remove at least some play).

Regards,
David
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