windsor

It's so ironic that as soon as we start talking setups for the average racer, the thread dries up. Looking for mod setup if anyone can help. Like was posted earlier by someone, hupos was a little off for me too. Thanks guys!

Max K

iTrader: (26)

hey i hope this helps. setup for a very bumpy track.

.50 fronts
5 degree blocks
30,000wt lube on the kingpin
brace, long arm
all shims back
0 degrees camber
servo up
Magenta front tire 1.62
Gold Center spring
White Sides, very little preload
30wt oil in shock
20,000wt in the tubes
Pink rears 1.67
batteries back

march to my own

Hey Max

Nice run last week. Just a bit shy of the win. I watched you run at the 08 nats in Omaha. I believe you were in the main at 17 years old. Where do you practice and what has helped you come through the ranks so fast!

Have you ever run any touring car?

Travis

Max K

iTrader: (26)

thanks travis,

Yea!!! That was my first big A-main race. What an experience at 17! I race at Rapid Competition Raceway in Grand Rapids, MI. All i can say is that it takes a lot of practice. It also helps to run against some great drivers every weekend too! Terry Rott, Chuck Lonergan, James Brink, Chris Mockerman, and Andrew Knapp also race here. If anything just getting a transmitter in front of you and run laps. Thats what i do!!!

I used to run touring car. Not anymore tho...

Andrew Knapp

This was my setup at the Halloween Classic for 17.5 12th scale. TQ and Win with this setup.

.55 fronts
5 degree blocks
30,000wt lube on the kingpin
brace, short arm
all shims back
0 degrees camber
servo up
Grey front tire 1.62 (Glue the Fronts!)
Red Center spring
White Sides, very little preload
30wt oil in shock
20,000wt in the tubes
Greylow 1.67
batteries back

windsor

Awesome, I will give it a try this weekend. Just one other thing, if the grip gets greater during the day do you usually go higher in wt. In the tubes? Thanks a ton!!

DriftDreamer06

iTrader: (12)

I have a question because I am learning about link cars. Why go to heavy tube lube instead of going to a stiffer spring?

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

What's a gray front tire? How does it compare to Jaco purple, double pink, lilac, etc? Shore rating?

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Jaco, 1/12th scale tire chart. Use this chart to enhance your racing program.

Black - 40 shore: This is a low natural rubber compound. Special tire for insane traction carpet tracks. Does not get gummy like Purple. If you don't have insane traction you car will likely push with these.

Purple - 40 shore: This is a natural rubber compound. Popular front stock tire, carries good corner speed because it's firm. The foam this compound is made from gets more gummy late in a race. The more you run this compound the gummier and stickier it gets. A little more forgiving than some of the other fronts.

Lilac - 37 shore: This is a natural rubber compound. Great front tire for stock carpet or if dbl. pink is too much steering.

Double Pink - 35 shore: This is a natural rubber compound. This is the standard front tire for carpet in all classes. It is used front and rear for 19T and Mod carpet and front and rear in all classes on asphalt.

Grey - 35 shore: This is a low natural rubber compound. It is just as hard as dbl. pink but it has FAR LESS traction. It is used to free up the rear of stock powered carpet cars for more efficiency and corner speed. This is the old standard rear carpet tire, most stock carpet racers use the softer yellow compound now for more forward grip.

R.Dalnogare

iTrader: (9)

I'm having a problem with the steering links hitting the servo case when turning. Since the links need to be run on the inside of the servo saver, every time I turn the links touch the servo case. I think it may be a servo saver problem, what servo saver are you guys running? btw this is with a futaba 9650.

Phazewun

iTrader: (40)

whats going on in here.

Max K

iTrader: (26)

not usually. i try to keep the dampening the same, if the traction goes up i usually just dial out steering. if the car gets harder to drive put blue sides on, or a blue center spring. hope this helps.

WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

I installed the encore shock on my regular Gen-X and have to pop off the shock to install/remove the battery. Gets very annoying especially now that the ball links on the new encore shock are rounded and there is nothing there to grip with pliers.

I had this quick-release thing for the stock Gen-X shock (which I have no idea where I got it nor can I find it on CRC's website). This would work great with the stock shock but won't fit on the large diameter shaft of the encore shock.

So two questions, hopefully you guys can answer:

1. Any suggestions on installing and removing 1S LiPo battery packs without having to painfully pop off the shock each time?

2. What is and where can I get this quick-release thing? I've attached a picture.

Three

You mean this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFV40&P=SM
Sullivan Ball Joint & Sleeve 4-40 p/n S562 $4.29

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

+1, I hate popping that shock off...just doesn't feel right. I'm looking for a ball stud that a hex driver fits into, then I'm going to use the eyelet shock end.