New Team CRC Gen-XL
#106
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I need to flatten it out for sure. I can switch to the lower hole on the servo mount too (all 4 holes do not line up ). I haven't done any setup on the front end other than snap it back together after mounting the servo. I need to swap out the ball cups, they're beat. I used a set of GH metric mounts I ordered from my LHS if anyone is curious.
#107
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
A picture is worth a thousand words. Brian's car is on the right.
http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie...C/17.5_1-2.jpg
http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie...C/17.5_1-2.jpg
#108
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
I need to flatten it out for sure. I can switch to the lower hole on the servo mount too (all 4 holes do not line up ). I haven't done any setup on the front end other than snap it back together after mounting the servo. I need to swap out the ball cups, they're beat. I used a set of GH metric mounts I ordered from my LHS if anyone is curious.
Take another set of steering arms (part # 3252) and mount them on top of the steering block, instead of in the middle of the block as instructed in the assembly directions. Leave the steering arm in the middle of the block, but trim the area that you attach the ball to. This will act as a spacer to fill the gap in the middle of the steering block. This essentially will raise the outer ball to level out the steering tie rod turnbuckles. Alternatively, you could use high roll center balls (part # 1361) on the steering arms. Otherwise, you could use a ton of shims. And I mean a ton of shims.
Hope this info helps.
#109
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Here's an idea that may help when running the servo flat to the chassis. I wanted to run my ESC in the center and the only way to do that before the XL chassis was to run the servo flat. This is what I did last year and I thought I would share.
Take another set of steering arms (part # 3252) and mount them on top of the steering block, instead of in the middle of the block as instructed in the assembly directions. Leave the steering arm in the middle of the block, but trim the area that you attach the ball to. This will act as a spacer to fill the gap in the middle of the steering block. This essentially will raise the outer ball to level out the steering tie rod turnbuckles. Alternatively, you could use high roll center balls (part # 1361) on the steering arms. Otherwise, you could use a ton of shims. And I mean a ton of shims.
Hope this info helps.
Take another set of steering arms (part # 3252) and mount them on top of the steering block, instead of in the middle of the block as instructed in the assembly directions. Leave the steering arm in the middle of the block, but trim the area that you attach the ball to. This will act as a spacer to fill the gap in the middle of the steering block. This essentially will raise the outer ball to level out the steering tie rod turnbuckles. Alternatively, you could use high roll center balls (part # 1361) on the steering arms. Otherwise, you could use a ton of shims. And I mean a ton of shims.
Hope this info helps.
Great innovations!
#113
#114
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I did the long arm upgrade last night and flattened out the steering linkage using the shim method. I think using standoffs might work also, but I need to take a measurement. I used almost every Losi hinge pin shim I had in my box. It took an extra couple of axle shims to give the rim plenty of clearance, but plenty of room to get the lock nut seated right. It ended up putting the bearing right at the very end of the shoulder where the thread starts. The only thing left now is the lower arm brass pivot ball.
#116
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie...C/17.5_1-2.jpg
what is the tin front brace on the left car? i havnt found this part...
also, what lipo batteries and RX volt thingy do you guys recommend?
thanks
what is the tin front brace on the left car? i havnt found this part...
also, what lipo batteries and RX volt thingy do you guys recommend?
thanks