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Old 10-08-2009, 06:57 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
You should probably mount those steering links to a lower hole on the servo saver, and add some shims under the outside pivot. Basically just make the links flatter overall. Otherwise you'll get some wild bump steer characteristics.

-Korey
I need to flatten it out for sure. I can switch to the lower hole on the servo mount too (all 4 holes do not line up ). I haven't done any setup on the front end other than snap it back together after mounting the servo. I need to swap out the ball cups, they're beat. I used a set of GH metric mounts I ordered from my LHS if anyone is curious.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:01 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by R/C Rich
A picture is worth a thousand words. Brian's car is on the right.

http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie...C/17.5_1-2.jpg
Pictures of the long arm setup! Finally. That's what I was thinking when I saw the parts, but wasn't sure. More fun in the basement tonight!
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:05 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
I need to flatten it out for sure. I can switch to the lower hole on the servo mount too (all 4 holes do not line up ). I haven't done any setup on the front end other than snap it back together after mounting the servo. I need to swap out the ball cups, they're beat. I used a set of GH metric mounts I ordered from my LHS if anyone is curious.
Here's an idea that may help when running the servo flat to the chassis. I wanted to run my ESC in the center and the only way to do that before the XL chassis was to run the servo flat. This is what I did last year and I thought I would share.

Take another set of steering arms (part # 3252) and mount them on top of the steering block, instead of in the middle of the block as instructed in the assembly directions. Leave the steering arm in the middle of the block, but trim the area that you attach the ball to. This will act as a spacer to fill the gap in the middle of the steering block. This essentially will raise the outer ball to level out the steering tie rod turnbuckles. Alternatively, you could use high roll center balls (part # 1361) on the steering arms. Otherwise, you could use a ton of shims. And I mean a ton of shims.

Hope this info helps.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:34 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by R/C Rich
Here's an idea that may help when running the servo flat to the chassis. I wanted to run my ESC in the center and the only way to do that before the XL chassis was to run the servo flat. This is what I did last year and I thought I would share.

Take another set of steering arms (part # 3252) and mount them on top of the steering block, instead of in the middle of the block as instructed in the assembly directions. Leave the steering arm in the middle of the block, but trim the area that you attach the ball to. This will act as a spacer to fill the gap in the middle of the steering block. This essentially will raise the outer ball to level out the steering tie rod turnbuckles. Alternatively, you could use high roll center balls (part # 1361) on the steering arms. Otherwise, you could use a ton of shims. And I mean a ton of shims.

Hope this info helps.

Great innovations!
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:55 PM
  #110  
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How does the long arm upgrade improve the car?
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:10 PM
  #111  
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Could someone perhaps with a manual PM the pn for the center antenna mount/shock brace? Thanks!


AWD
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:32 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Mugen10
How does the long arm upgrade improve the car?
Running a longer upper arm will help smoothen the steering out on high bite tracks. It will take away some camber gain as well. This applies on all 12th scales or pan cars.

EA
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:33 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Could someone perhaps with a manual PM the pn for the center antenna mount/shock brace? Thanks!


AWD
Gen-XL manual -

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...ete_manual.pdf
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:26 AM
  #114  
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I did the long arm upgrade last night and flattened out the steering linkage using the shim method. I think using standoffs might work also, but I need to take a measurement. I used almost every Losi hinge pin shim I had in my box. It took an extra couple of axle shims to give the rim plenty of clearance, but plenty of room to get the lock nut seated right. It ended up putting the bearing right at the very end of the shoulder where the thread starts. The only thing left now is the lower arm brass pivot ball.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:54 PM
  #115  
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Its a car!
Long arm front suspension:

Glamor shot:

Side shot:

The right rear view showing booster location:

What to do with the antena?
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Old 10-10-2009, 03:18 PM
  #116  
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http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie...C/17.5_1-2.jpg

what is the tin front brace on the left car? i havnt found this part...

also, what lipo batteries and RX volt thingy do you guys recommend?

thanks
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:40 PM
  #117  
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What is the CRC red spring compared to by other brands. My hobby shop carries more of AE spings.
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:28 PM
  #118  
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It is an 8 lb windtunnel brand spring in my pic.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:48 AM
  #119  
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I'm just waiting for my antenna mast to show up. The one from the PO was pretty nicked up and the rubber tip was missing. I hope to be testing this week.
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Old 10-13-2009, 09:14 AM
  #120  
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I had my LHS order me the XL conversion kit for my Gen-X yesterday, but it was on backorder at Horizon. Any idea how long until it becomes available?

Thanks guys.
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