nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

951 KO servo
451 sanwa receiver
180mah thunder power pack
Tekin RS Pro (heavier then Tekin RS)
balanced on xray pins

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

if I am not mistaken the front plate is a McKune front end stiffener.


The rear pod has already been replaced with a new design that is on the website. I dont know why they didnt just use the left bulkhead from the Gen X (the Open Pod Design).

The new design reminds me of the 3.2RR Pod I just got rid of!

Shawn.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Hey Guys. Why are you mounting your Steering Servo Flat? I thought that introduced a bunch of understeer?


Just what I have read about the GenX I have not tried it on mine. But we have a low traction track so I am always after traction

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

I've actually found that flat servo placement ADDS steering. The car tends to be more aggressive off-center, and you get added bumpsteer, which when cornering, actually angles the outside front wheel in more, and increases midcorner steering.

avs

iTrader: (2)

what posts are you using?
i would like to try a laid down servo, but shoegoo seems like too much of a commitment.

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

Just stock Team Associated nylon angle up servo posts. I cut the top off, mount them backwards, drill the 2 screw holes and then double stick tape the servo down also. I'll see if I can get a part number. And yes it gives more steering laid down then angle up. Angle up is more easier to drive I have found so I usually reserve that for my 13.5 or mod car.

ASC8435

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3148&P=7

wingman2

Thanks for the replies regarding the new front and rear end parts, nice one.

avs

iTrader: (2)

just guessing, but it looks like they are trying to increase the rear pod rigidity. maybe for mod or 2s applications the openpod is flexible.

or it is to increase the strength of the top plate.

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

The new pod design is definatly not the strongest, we have had a few broken lower pod plates in the club this year, and i broke an upper one last year.

Just sold my 3.2 to a new 1/12 racer and I never broke a part on that car except the front bearings acouple of times.

SHawn

chovden

iTrader: (1)

I ran my 12 for the first time this weekend and had some issues, for the first 3,5-4 minutes it was fast, 0,2-0,3seconds faster per lap than the others but after that I lost rear grip comming on throttle and it was undrivable.
I ran 5deg caster, long front arms with alu brace, white side springs, 35W centershock with blue spring, 3,5mm front-4mm back and approx 1,5mm droop.
I used magnetas front, and tried yellow-grey and magnetas back, 42mm front and 43mm back.
I tried different compounds and had it on from 20-50minutes at the back, the front I tried no compound- 1/4 of the inside for upto 15minutes.
Nothing had a real affect on the behavure of the car everytime I ran I lost grip when going back on throttle espessialy in thighter hairpins.

Any ideas what it can be?

Christian

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

If the issue is forward bite, try Pink rears.

chovden

iTrader: (1)

I thought yellow where softer then pink?
It was forward traction that was the issue after some time when I got on the throttle it wanted to spin out.
First time driving a 12 car so dont have the best knowlege about them.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

The Yellows are softer, but they're from a different "family" of foam. The pinks have a higher natural rubber content. They have more forward bite than a Yellow.

mahamoti

iTrader: (16)

First outing with a new GenXL, first broken kingpin. Anyone have an easy way to salvage the steering block and axle when this happens?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

With a cutting disk in a Dremel, cut a slot into the remaining part of the kingpin. Then unscrew with a flatblade.

Some silvery kingpins were recalled by CRC earlier. If you have such contact John at CRC. [email protected]

Cheers!

Bill