shikakae123

iTrader: (5)

My dampers does not have any rebound.Does it mean that it is spoilt?

dragnse7en

Sounds to me that there may be a leak. If there's no oil leaking down the shaft, it might be leaking where you can't see. Check for leaks on the bladder seal under the top cap.

Most of the time I can get away with refurbishing the dampers without replacing any parts. If I do replace anything, it's almost always the O-rings.

dragnse7en

I will post my setup sheet after work

dragnse7en

First setup sheet, before the race coming up on 10/17/2010 -

dragnse7en

I am printing out my V2-R manual tonight. I will read it talk about it tomorrow, I suppose.

Tjello

What downstop value do you run dragnse7en ?

dragnse7en

Are you talking about the suspension arm screws?

Tjello

Yes

dragnse7en

I'm using 3X10mm grub screws. Measured from the tops of my suspension arms, I have 0.5mm screw height for the front arms, and I have 1mm screw height for the rear arms.

I would think that the measurement should be taken from the bottom of the suspension arms, but I can't really get a gauge in between the chassis and arms to do so.

Hope this helps though!

dragnse7en

Updated setting sheet - I added the downstop value in the memo/ notes, and added the upper arm spacer values, which were empty.

Zac_with_no_K

Just received and installed my front spool. Ready to take it to a tennis court tonight or tomorrow to start practicing before my car finally meets a real track!
Is there any secrets or anything I should know while using a spool?

dragnse7en

Yes. Always remember that you only have rear wheel drive braking. Any and every time you pull that throttle trigger, remember you've got a 1.35lb car going speeds of 20-30mph average. Newton's law of inertia makes the car feel like a 6lb object flying around.

Now consider how you can or cannot brake. Braking out to slide into a holeshot, mild braking, and front/ rear braking are completely different.

Sway bars/ Stab bars:

This will help BIG TIME if you're on a track with all hugs, corners, and winds, and then YAY! a 60ft straight. Believe it or not, the medium weight (yellow) and soft (red) stab bars work the best for the front, after speaking with my R version brotherhood and bretheren.

Ride height:

Get the car's nose lower, if possible here. The car might act like a 2WD car at first, but trust us, it's 4WD but just no longer full-time 4WD.

Bank up on spares and try not to kiss your rear hubs against anything solid b/c it will feel like you can fish-tail or do infinite donut burn records

You will fish-tail thru turns more, but the front end of the car acts more like the new TRF417, with a diff that only goes forward. Any tire that needs traction in this application has 150-200 percent advantage on cornering and steering - if you know how to drive.

Maintenance:

Pull it all apart, and blast all the metal parts with liquid wrench, and let it thoroughly dry!!! - not carb cleaner!!!! Wash all plastic parts in dish detergent and dry, inspect, replace parts as necessary, and then re-assemble. Giggity!!!

More on the center one-way if you wanna know. PM me

encore75

iTrader: (26)

^^^^^ ignore all that...he didn't read your post and instead posted a bunch of stuff about one-ways, not spools (and a bunch of other stuff that didn't have anything to do with your question).

The basic lowdown is that you should find the car easier to drive with a spool. You WILL have maximum four-wheel braking and the car will have more on-power steering than with a front diff. The trade-off is a little less off-power steering.

Just keep an eye on the outdrives for wear. Over time, the dogbone pins tend to wear into the outdrives because running a spool is a little harder on the drivetrain since it doesn't have the "give" that a diff has in an impact.

dragnse7en

Steering maintenance.

Please add to that thread if you also have a trick

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...s-secrets.html

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Agreed about spools, it will make it easier to catch(& you WILL have full brakes all the time), so I'd mainly just watch the drivetrain for wear & of course, try not to hit anything....