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TA-05 ver.2

Old 01-04-2010, 07:59 PM
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It's definitely not a Ver-2...
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:05 PM
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I notice it from the bumper support and the motor mount. Then looking at the tub, its not the narrow one from ver2. Hows your ride going so far bro? I only have to buy the Hopup motor mount, carbon bumper support and carbon rear damper stay before i complete everything on my ver2. The TRF dampers are on the way.

Originally Posted by tom_chang79
That looks like an IFS if you look at the rear chassis brace and the motor mount, but I could be wrong...
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 94eg!
It's definitely not a Ver-2...
It's not a V2, I think I've posted a few times now that I have an IFS-R. But those boards are dead so I post in here.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tom_chang79
I just swapped my 17.5 into my TA05 and kept the gearing with the stock gearing. The FDR is 7-something (I forget). The 4600Kv was too much for my Ta05 with my crappy driving skill, and the 17.5 in my SC10 made the SC10 such a slug...

It was a mutual power-exchange program...

Plus, I'm gearing up to race in my 17.5 class locally. They could use more racers, and I can use more practice... ALOT more practice...
FDR of 7+?? holy shit bro, that's insanely high for 17.5. What are your motor temps after your run...room temp?

I'm at a 3.9 FDR in my 17.5 class. Motor temps hold at 150F after my run.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:38 PM
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Nice one tho. Yes i believe this thread is the most active among the other TA05's. Hows your IFS-R doing? I still need to setup mine since everything have shifted right after i installed bulkheads

Originally Posted by Pingers
It's not a V2, I think I've posted a few times now that I have an IFS-R. But those boards are dead so I post in here.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Pingers
FDR of 7+?? holy shit bro, that's insanely high for 17.5. What are your motor temps after your run...room temp?

I'm at a 3.9 FDR in my 17.5 class. Motor temps hold at 150F after my run.
It's funny you mention the temp. I had the same gearing when I had my 4600Kv motor in there (about 10 to 12 turn motor), and the motor came off probably less than 40C. I remember because touching the can after the run, it was only lukewarm... I think that little scoop underneath the motor really helps to cool things...
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Old 01-05-2010, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Akudou
Nice one tho. Yes i believe this thread is the most active among the other TA05's. Hows your IFS-R doing? I still need to setup mine since everything have shifted right after i installed bulkheads
I practiced a lot last week on our local carpet track and made a lot of adjustments. I loosened up the rear diff quite a bit, tightened down the front. Added weights to make up for my lipo and geared it down to an 81 spur, 47 pinion. I still need to get a better tire setup. I might do that today.

Also - while practicing a modified guy thought he could pass me cleanly in the straight - instead he rammed the back of my car. At first I didn't notice any damage until I took the first turn and my car flipped over on its own. Then around another right turn it spun out. It turns out the ball stud was completely ripped out of the rear hub. I had to replace the rear hub and ball stud because I couldn't find the ball stud on the track, it wasn't in the ball cup. I was going to upgrade to aluminum rear hubs after that but my LHS wanted $48 for the upgraded hubs and the plastic replacements were only $5.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Pingers
I practiced a lot last week on our local carpet track and made a lot of adjustments. I loosened up the rear diff quite a bit, tightened down the front. Added weights to make up for my lipo and geared it down to an 81 spur, 47 pinion. I still need to get a better tire setup. I might do that today.

Also - while practicing a modified guy thought he could pass me cleanly in the straight - instead he rammed the back of my car. At first I didn't notice any damage until I took the first turn and my car flipped over on its own. Then around another right turn it spun out. It turns out the ball stud was completely ripped out of the rear hub. I had to replace the rear hub and ball stud because I couldn't find the ball stud on the track, it wasn't in the ball cup. I was going to upgrade to aluminum rear hubs after that but my LHS wanted $48 for the upgraded hubs and the plastic replacements were only $5.
Whatis your spring setting and do you have anti roll bar/
I use yellow spring, yellow anti roll bar for the front and red spring , red anti roll baron the rear. My car keep on throwing out on the rear went in the corner.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bl4
Whatis your spring setting and do you have anti roll bar/
I use yellow spring, yellow anti roll bar for the front and red spring , red anti roll baron the rear. My car keep on throwing out on the rear went in the corner.
I'm running the stock white springs for now, though I have about every spring color known to man. It's going to take some more time for me to get dialed in for my local track. Talking to other guys, etc. Only a handful run Tamiya. And they all run in the VTA class.

I run the red sway bars front & rear. I'll probably change them as I go and try different settings.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Pingers
Morning photoshoot.





Nice looking car there Pingers! And yes, those are Tamiya bulkheads, everything is genuine Tamiya.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:50 PM
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Yeah, I was mistaken. I bought some 3Racing bulkheads, and I just installed them onto my TA05 and they are quite different, in color and also the rear shock tower mounting points...

I just bought two packs of the pivot balls, installed them, pics coming soon, finally finished with this TA05 v2 redux!

I was griping about why the pivot costs $7-$9 retail, but I found out why, these things are metal!!!! YAY! The plastic ones off of the "M" parts tree cracked... These new fluorine-coated metal ones *should* last for a bit.

Will take some photos later and post it...
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:37 PM
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Ran my ver2 on Asphlat last night and my differential holder was knocked off. Installed the aluminium ones and realise no matter how i tighten the diffs, it would always come loose
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Old 01-05-2010, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Akudou
Ran my ver2 on Asphlat last night and my differential holder was knocked off. Installed the aluminium ones and realise no matter how i tighten the diffs, it would always come loose
Differential holder? What part is that?
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Old 01-06-2010, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Akudou
Ran my ver2 on Asphlat last night and my differential holder was knocked off. Installed the aluminium ones and realise no matter how i tighten the diffs, it would always come loose
Well, there could be three possibilities, first, make sure you put the T-nut and the diff screw in the correct sides... The T-nut should be on the longer outdrive and the screw should go into the shorter end...

The other problem could be your thrust bearing. I've tweaked and crushed quite a few of these caged thrust bearings from Tamiya...

These are the same thrust bearings used on various Tamiya kits. On my DF-03 (which is the other car that had the thrust bearings tweaked), I made my own by getting some appropriate steel balls and washers...

If the washers are too thin, just double it up. Then sandwhich the steel balls with the washer, instant thrust bearing...

The third possibility is that the locknut is worn out. Replace it with some fresh locknut for the diff assembly...
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Old 01-06-2010, 12:36 AM
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Here are some pics of my upgraded TA05v2. It's not bling-bling as some of the guy's here, cause i went a bit conservative, but the three things I'm really anxious to try out are the new servo saver, sway bars, and the aluminum hinge blocks and the pivot balls...

Oh, initially, I didn't buy the aluminum rocker arms, but the upgrades didn't seem complete without them...
Attached Thumbnails TA-05 ver.2-ta05v2a.jpg   TA-05 ver.2-ta05v2b.jpg   TA-05 ver.2-ta05v2c.jpg   TA-05 ver.2-ta05v2d.jpg   TA-05 ver.2-ta05v2e.jpg  

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