416 WE made in China
07-30-2009, 07:43 PM
#286
On second inspection, yeah, it's a fake sold as a genuine 416WE.
beware boys and girls.
beware boys and girls.
07-30-2009, 09:47 PM
#288
That's gonna help someone looking at an e-bay ad...
07-30-2009, 10:07 PM
#289
Should be ok for a refund, if not paypal might wade in.
07-30-2009, 11:02 PM
#290
I guess fakes will not have pictures of the unassembled kit and the unopened box but generic pictures. I know these pictures can be downloaded everywhere, so beware of listings with such a generic picture. A genuine picture taken in someone's home will have the little backgound details (a table the box is set on, lighting, etc) that give it away as the real thing, not some image downloaded off the web. If I saw the original unopened box in such a home-made picture I would take it as being pretty much the real thing (as real as it can be on ebay, anyway).
07-31-2009, 01:46 AM
#291
Tech Adept
Any Chance of getting a link to that auction and how much he paid for it ?
07-31-2009, 06:01 AM
#292
Tech Adept
This is good news
we should support this company
$180 is a bargain.
the price for a brand original 416 is way overpriced
hopefully more cars will be copy, lets bring down the cost of rc !
we should support this company
$180 is a bargain.
the price for a brand original 416 is way overpriced
hopefully more cars will be copy, lets bring down the cost of rc !
07-31-2009, 06:31 PM
#294
07-31-2009, 07:39 PM
#295
Tech Adept
08-01-2009, 01:02 AM
#296
Yeah, but not such a good deal on a chinese knock off.
08-01-2009, 12:53 PM
#297
Tech Adept
08-17-2009, 12:57 AM
#298
New 416 full option!! WOW
08-17-2009, 05:44 AM
#299
deleted
I've got the answers
I've got the answers
Last edited by yokemad; 08-17-2009 at 06:33 AM.
08-19-2009, 11:05 AM
#300
Tech Adept
Hi guys.
This is my first post on here, but have been keeping an eye on this 416 copy or clone etc etc. I ordered one from RCMarket and it arrived in 4 working days from Hong Kong, which is pretty quick (as usual for RCMarket!)
On first inspection, the Chinaman put the c hubs on the wrong way round, so the tops of the hubs were pointing towards the bumper. I also looked at a few other issues, like the shocks and they felt a bit wrong in feel. I thought looking at this thing so far, i'd better undo the whole thing and put it back together.
I thread locked in all the bottom screws. Shimmed everything in the steering rack so the least amount of play was left. The diffs problem which was already pointed out on here, was the long screw which actually only works how the Chinaman did it -the wrong way round, so the thrust bearing is in on the other side. The only downside in this, is that the diff cannot be adjusted quickly. I actually undone it and replaced the balls with tungsten ones and sanded the plates flat on both sides. I greased it all and also even greased the crappy thrustbearing and plates that came with it with Tamiya Antiwear grease. (Which is my favourite grease in RC because its incredible on my 1/8scale on road driveshafts, incredible lack of wear when applied right.)
The shocks I checked and the bodies look remarkably good quality. I thrown out the red o rings and put in clear ones. I then changed the oil caps with old TRF ones that I already had. I also had old tamiya shock rods that I feel are better than the gold ones that come with it and I had them already too!
Next, I filled them all with 50wt oil and they actually rebound well and dont squeak at all. They are very very smooth if done right and actually feel like TRF shocks with proper rods/o rings/oil seals.
When I finished the car, I spent nothing extra on it, as I had the parts already. The car looks amazing. I have a feeling the anti roll bar cups are too loose, so they will probably pop out. Also the cups on everything else are possibly too likely to pop out on impacts. Apart from those things, the car should handle brilliantly as everything is made well enough.
So things I did -
Replaced all o rings and oil seals for dampers.
Replaced shock rods with standard tamiya ones.
Used tons of anti wear grease on the thrust bearing and plates, but I would replace the thrust bearing with the original and get the correct screw.
smimmed the steering rack to try and remove play.
Anti wear greased the cvds fully.
Hopefully the car lasts a full race meeting on Thursday and will let you know how it went. The handling should be great but my only concern is the diff and if the car is fragile. All in all the car is easily worth the money, even with the changes that need to be made. Even if the car breaks the c hubs/blocks easily, they can be replaced over time for those on a budget with aluminium ones.
This is my first post on here, but have been keeping an eye on this 416 copy or clone etc etc. I ordered one from RCMarket and it arrived in 4 working days from Hong Kong, which is pretty quick (as usual for RCMarket!)
On first inspection, the Chinaman put the c hubs on the wrong way round, so the tops of the hubs were pointing towards the bumper. I also looked at a few other issues, like the shocks and they felt a bit wrong in feel. I thought looking at this thing so far, i'd better undo the whole thing and put it back together.
I thread locked in all the bottom screws. Shimmed everything in the steering rack so the least amount of play was left. The diffs problem which was already pointed out on here, was the long screw which actually only works how the Chinaman did it -the wrong way round, so the thrust bearing is in on the other side. The only downside in this, is that the diff cannot be adjusted quickly. I actually undone it and replaced the balls with tungsten ones and sanded the plates flat on both sides. I greased it all and also even greased the crappy thrustbearing and plates that came with it with Tamiya Antiwear grease. (Which is my favourite grease in RC because its incredible on my 1/8scale on road driveshafts, incredible lack of wear when applied right.)
The shocks I checked and the bodies look remarkably good quality. I thrown out the red o rings and put in clear ones. I then changed the oil caps with old TRF ones that I already had. I also had old tamiya shock rods that I feel are better than the gold ones that come with it and I had them already too!
Next, I filled them all with 50wt oil and they actually rebound well and dont squeak at all. They are very very smooth if done right and actually feel like TRF shocks with proper rods/o rings/oil seals.When I finished the car, I spent nothing extra on it, as I had the parts already. The car looks amazing. I have a feeling the anti roll bar cups are too loose, so they will probably pop out. Also the cups on everything else are possibly too likely to pop out on impacts. Apart from those things, the car should handle brilliantly as everything is made well enough.
So things I did -
Replaced all o rings and oil seals for dampers.
Replaced shock rods with standard tamiya ones.
Used tons of anti wear grease on the thrust bearing and plates, but I would replace the thrust bearing with the original and get the correct screw.
smimmed the steering rack to try and remove play.
Anti wear greased the cvds fully.
Hopefully the car lasts a full race meeting on Thursday and will let you know how it went. The handling should be great but my only concern is the diff and if the car is fragile. All in all the car is easily worth the money, even with the changes that need to be made. Even if the car breaks the c hubs/blocks easily, they can be replaced over time for those on a budget with aluminium ones.