That depends on the type of ball cups you use ... would you race like this ??

I filed my RPM ball cups a little and it was fine. As long as I can freely rotate the whole camber link back and forth on its balls with my fingers I know it's working fine. Or you could dremel the tower a little, or both. Not enough of a problem to justify the purchase of 2 shock towers IMHO. I already have a bunch of TC3 front towers I'll probably never use again, no need to render the rears obsolete as well ;- )

You might want to cut the inner part of the braces to gain some flex. You probably know about it anyway. That doesn't get you nearly as much flex as today's cars but still better than the ultra-stiff stock setup.

One day I'll have to experiment a bit more to try and get torsional flex out of the stock chassis. Even the composite version too stiff. Maybe mill down the center webbing, of lower the sides of the bathtub... or both... Maybe cutouts on the electronics side...don't know yet. One day...

I already use a center brace between the F and R gear cases so I'm not worried about longitudinal flex.

No, but I wouldn't race with rusty anti-sway bars and screws on my car either. :ha: :D ......... J/K with you ;)

I do however see your dilemma with using RPM ball cups.

Like I said before the TC4 towers are not necessarily needed. For example the guys at our track running TC3 towers and TC4 braces are using the stock ball cups so there is no interference issues on their cars like you are having.

Here's our three TC3's. The first one is our best and runs really great in VTA. I've worked on it and had some help from IndyRCRacer on it too. Drives great and can win in the the A Main in the hands of a better driver than me.

The second one is set up for "Sportsman" class which uses a silvercan motor (21.5 equiv.). That class has passed in Indy, so I'm going to convert this one over to another VTA car. My son is currently using it for a drifter on carpet. Works great for that too. :)

The last one is not being used right now. Its your basic TC3. I'm planning on keeping it for parts or maybe a chassis for a scale build I'm planning. Not sure. Right now, I've got a Parma '34 Ford Truck body mounted on it (bottom pic). Its a perfect fit. So, I may just put some basic components in it, all my old stuff, and get it drivable.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...3chassis-1.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...3chassis-2.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...3chassis-3.jpg

http://www.indyhobbies.com/34FordParma_003R.JPG

I pulled the guts from my TC5 that was set up for VTA, and have put them into my #2 TC3. I just haven't been happy with the TC5 in comparison to my TC3. Seems crazy that the older car works better, but it does.

Worked on it on and off over the weekend. Since my long time VTA TC3 has been so good, I decided to try to match it, setting for setting, degree by degree on this other TC3. We'll find out Friday night how successful I was and if its as good as my other car.

Using a new 25.5 Ballistic Novak with a Havoc Pro ESC. Steering servo is a Futaba S9452. I've got three of these and really like them.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...3vta-2car-.jpg

I've got a couple of them as well and love them. It seems it's often overlooked by racers in favor of the low-profile S9551.

gearing help
 

Hi guys,
I recently picked up a used TC3 for VTA use. Never had a sedan type car before (pan and F1 guy). While there is great info on this thread, slogging through almost 12,000 post is a bit much (plus my search skills are lacking).


Indy, I see in your pics that you mark your spur/pinions on the chassis (thanks). In the last pic, is that an 84/55 for a FDR of 3.81?

I'll be running carpet, and some parking lot asphalt, and research seems to lead me this FDR may be in the ballpark.

My car came with the stock 48p (72t?) spur and I don't believe I can fit a big enough pinion to get where I need to be. I'll be swapping to 64p and here is my question:

Will a standard 64p Kimbourgh spur work on the TC3 or do I need to order an "AE" specific one? Where would one get them from? Any mods needed to run that big of a pinion?

If it matters, I'l be running the Novak 25.5 ballistic.

Any other gearing tips appreciated, especially from the Austin/Porter/EOS gang (RJ?).

Thanks!

A 76 tooth Kimbrough will bolt right in and give you a nice range with just a few different pinions for VTA racing. You may have to take down the chassis webbing under the pinion gear to work with the larger pinion sizes.

Yes that's the FDR exactly. That seems to be about right for the track I've been running on. Like Beemer said above, I've had to use the dremel to remove some webbing below the gear. Not a problem, just a quick little modification.

The Kimbroughs fit just fine.

:)

here's a pic of my tc3 before I sell it. closest track is over a hour away and that doesnt work with my schedule so I've decided to let it go

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps55608b99.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps0acc724d.jpg

How much do you want for it?

You have a pm

decided to keep my tc3. I sold my tc4 instead. front diff is bad so I need to rebuild. I don't plan on racing it much but at least it will be ready when I do. one thing I am missing is a motor cam so I am looking for one

Stormer Hobbies has in stock...Part #ASC3930 or try Fleabay, search associated TC3 in toys and hobbies. Good luck!!!:sneaky::sneaky: