Trixter

Check all of the wheel bearings, one might be hanging up, if all are ok you might have to check the bearings at the output shaft of the diffs.

NOZ69

Try Again..

http://ca.geocities.com/[email protected]/index.htm

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

Ok, my Factory TC3 is going straight now but the setting I used is messed up. The left front is about 1 degree toe-in and the right front is half a degree toe-out. Weird. But it pretty much goes straight. But it doesn't go straight going in reverse??? It veers to the right in reverse.

The steering rack is fine. There's no bind at all.

I did set the shocks the same length but the droop gauge I haven't used yet. Droop looks almost the same just by counting the threads showing - but not exactly reliable.

Camber is 3 degrees all around. I tested it using the camber measuring device or whatever you guys call it...lol...

I'll take the thing apart this weekend and clean out the wheel bearings and recheck the droop. Those are the only things I haven't cleaned 'cause it was a pain in the ass getting the axle pins out in the Touring TC3 (traded that one to my brother for a MR4TC Special) that I decided to skip that part with this one. I just got the factory pins in. That should be easier to install after I rip the other ones out. The diffs are no problem. I cleaned them out before - no binding in them.

Last, but not least, I'll have to try it out with a new set of tires. The tires may be worn but it didn't look it to me.

Anything else that I can look into?

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. You're a great bunch... Thank God for these forums!!!

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

While we're on the subject of helping me dial in my TC3, can you guys give suggestions on tools? The hex wrenches that came with the TC3 are stripping and in turn they are stripping my screws. Can you guys suggest any affordable tools? I don't want to dish out $40 for an Associated set of tools. Are the DuraTrax Precision Ball Hex Drivers any good? They're $3 a piece. It beats paying $9 for a single Associated hex driver or $8 for a DuraTrax Ultimate driver. I'm thinking of just getting the more commonly used sizes like 3/32, 1/16 and 2.0mm for my Yoke.

I know the tips can't be changed on these cheaper ones but how often do the tips go bad on these? Will they last long enough and are more reliable than the L shaped hex wrenches? My brother is a mechanic so he seems to think I should get the expensive ones. All his tools are top notch. My point is I'm not working on a real car but not working on a toy either so I want something better than getting a new set of L-shaped hex wrenches that's not gonna cost too much. I still have to buy a high torque servo. Thanks again.

Charles Leto

i'd go for the red dynamite wrenches all i've had and never stripped one out

about 6 or 7 per each and you can get them in Us and Metric sets

Charles Leto

has anyone tried the TC4 shock towers on the TC3 for more tunability since there is an extra hole?????

they are a direct fit but i havn't tried it

rcracer333

I dont know i think it would be perty cool if they worked thou.

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

Good call!!! MY Obsessive-Compulsive behavior forced me to wake up early this AM and take your advise. The right bearing was binding really bad. I don't know if cleaning it will be enough. I may just have to replace it. The previous owner of the car had taken off the bearing covers to both sides of the bearings, not just one side, exposing them to dirt, etc. Hopefully this solves the problem.

JWATT

If all the wheel bearings have no shields, you might as well by a set (better price) and change them all. It's going to be a constant problem if you do not. IMHO

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

Right now I have the front and rear TC4 shock towers, the front and rear chassis braces and the NTC3 steering "system".

I like them...

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

I was thinking the same thing. I read in the forums that you should only take the cover off of one side and have the covered side facing the outside. I just bought a set on eBay...

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

Couldn't find them in tower. What do you think of the Hobbico hex driver set? Have any of you guys used these? Here's a link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

xxmerlynxx

i'm curious if anyone's using the FT TC4 aluminum arm mounts (part #'s - 31064-31069) on their TC3. I'd like to get some, but am reluctant to just buy them without any input as to whether they'll fit or not. I contacted Associated & they said "If the holes line up, it should be fine." ....not exactly the well-defined answer I was looking for, so this was of course the next stop. I did a search & came up with too many results to wade thru. Please help me before I blow $40 on these parts for no reason.

Also, is there anyone using the 3Racing SSG/CF TC4 shock towers? I was thinking about upgrading to some CF towers & these are the only ones I've seen in SSG, which will match my new chassis (Xtreme SSG TC3, if anyone's interested), or if anyone knows of any other TC3/TC4 shock towers in SSG. I know that Nova F1 Racer is using the TC4 towers w/o any problems & that these are supposed to bolt right up, so there shouldn't be any hold ups, but, again, I'd like to run it past this group of experts prior to shelling out the dough unnecessarily.

Sorry for making this so long, but thanks in advance for the help.
Adam

Charles Leto

whats the advantages of using the TC4 chassis braces

i know the TC4 towers would be good for better tunabilty

are you using the nTC3 rack on the stock TC3 chassis?

xxmerlynxx

advantages:
-they should be stiffer (more rigid) than the carbon ones there now
-should mate up well with the titanium hinge pins
-but the main reason is looks & uniformity... as the rest of the car will be in alum/titan/CF/SSG, those would help to "complete" the package

yes, the TC4 towers offer more tunability, which is a plus, but again, not the main reason.

I'm not using the NTC3 rack (should I make the switch? what's the reasoning behind changing? more durable? less prone to get sh*t stuck in it? any benefit?), but i had planned on using an alum version of the stock TC3 rack and, no this won't be on the stock chassis, it'll be on an Xtreme SSG chassis (which is drilled for both NTC3 & ETC3, so either should be a viable option).

I'm not as interested in the benefits one might see on the track with these upgrades as this one will only rarely get run... it'll be more for show than anything else (but, hey, if it's fast, that's not a problem for me :P )

Again, thanks for your time and help here, it is truly appreciated.

Adam