johnbull

Hi Dragon Slayer. Greetings from Malta.

Long way to go!

When I was 40.....long, long time ago, I didn't need reading glasses, I was lots slimmer, I could hear well, etc etc.

But I tell you life is still fun at 56. I suppose life is what you make of it. Three heart operations later I'm still playing with model cars, riding my 1200 Suzuki Bandit, and even racing the real cars still occasionally. And I enjoy every minute of it.

So long as you can keep it up!!!!!! all's well with the World.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

asenna

hello i have a NEW tc3 team kit and when i build it i put on an stand and i had a wobble(thy wher flying everywhere) in 3 wheels i take them of put them back on and it was gone.i ride the car and now is it back .what can i do against it.thanx

D_Ames

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!! Some COOLass Pro driver dude made it for me!!!!



By the way....diff should be done next week!!

Boomer

It sounds like the wheels weren't tightened all the way down, or that the hexes weren't set in right. . .

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!!! Can't wait to give it a go!!!

linger

iTrader: (1)

Hey Tony, when running a locked front diff, how much front kickup/castor do you run?

TC3Nut

By putting the rear shock tower in the front and locking the front diff, would this cause the car to loose corner speed? I currently running a stock motor on a parking lot ashpalt with non prep/spray surface. Do you guys recommend the sway bars?

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

I've built a TC3 up with the locked front diff.

Actually I used one I had tried some time ago on the rear. I have also fitted the rear tower up front.

I haven't tried it on the track yet, but logic tells that:

a) If the car is an inherent understeerer I should have as little front caster as possible to get better turn in.

b) I doubt that the plastic front diff is going to withstand the hammering with hot modified motors on a grippy track.

What are the experiences of you guys that have tried this, on these two points?

Also has anyone tried the new Stratus bodyshell yet?

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

I let a mate of mine play with my old car last friday, we put the tower on, and a locked diff, he took the balls out and it was locked quite easily apparently. First run, awesome accelaration, but we were extremely surprised to find out that the rear end was unstable, after a few changes, and turning down the steering rate considerably it was quite fun to drive. we will try altering the setup over the next couple of weeks, but it seems very promising.

We had smiles ear to ear

Motorsports00

heya
how do u change ur logos andthe lil quote under ur name??
and i think the sway bars on tc3 - the fron ones r the onli ones to use - otherwise u hav OVASTEER

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

TC3Nut: I wouldn't say that you loose corner speed. You will be able to stay on the throttle just a tad bit longer before entering the corner and you will be able to apply a bit more throttle while exiting the corner. The reason for this is because of the rear shock tower on the front, it make the car even more stable then it already is. My first question is how is the traction of the track? If the parking lot yields consistent traction, meaning the car does not break loose, then you can try the sway bars all around. The advantage of using them all around is that the car will respond a little faster when changing directions. However, if you are facing any situation where the car is loose, install the front swaybar only, this will give increase traction in the rear of the car. If the car under-steers, then install the rear sway bar, this will increase the front bite and yield more steering in the car. In conclusion, when adding only one swaybar to the car, at whichever end (front or rear) that you add a sway bar to it effects the opposite end of the car. Although running with no swaybars causes the car to feel a little lazy in the corners because the chassis rolls more, it may be the better option if running on a track that has low bite, and the car breaks loose constantly, this provides maximum traction. If your were just adimate on running swaybars, then you could also play around with different thicknesses of the bar(s). The kit comes with .062 bars, and BRP (Bud's Racing Products) produces a softer bar at .055.

johnbull: I agree with you, since the car develops an understeer issue then decreasing caster in small amounts is one way to counteract the understeer to force the car to turn-in better. Of course softening your front shock setup (oil and spring) and/or stiffening your rear shock setup may also aid in the task. A good setup to start with is Barry Baker's Reedy Race / ROAR National setup. He ran the locked front diff at the Nationals and the car was on rails, believe you me, I was there. Just duplicate his setup and modify it accordingly to your driving style.

Fred Hubbard

Jarrod Langlois

iTrader: (1)

do the diffs in the factory team come with bushings or bearings, because i got a factory team used and i noticed it had bushings when i went to rebuild the diffs.the directions say bearings but i wasnt sure if some kits had bushings in the diffs. also i was going to build a locked diff but will it work very good at all with the old style front arms and standard shock tower up front? if not i will have to find some of the new arms. thanks

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

spaz456: The diffs that are included with the Factory Team Edition contain the bronze bushings. You could drill your current arms to the specs of the version 2 arm, but it could be more trouble than what its worth. The best solution is to purchase the revised arms, Part #3885 Version2 TC3 Front Suspension Arms (Carbon Fiber).

Fred Hubbard

Jarrod Langlois

iTrader: (1)

o ok. ill just pick up some more bushings for when i build a locked diff then. about the arms im just going to order some of the new version arms instead of drilling the old ones i think. thanks fhubbard

Greg Anderson

An idea,
I have a bad one-way bearing in one of my one-way differentials. I removed the bearings from the one way and realized that both sides have two bearings in them for stability and durability. I'm building a locked diff presently and an idea came to mind for the one-way diff to turn it into a locked diff. Take the inside bearings, or outside bearings (your preference) from each side of the one-way and flip them backwards so that each side of the one-way has a bearing that locks in either direction. Voila, a locked diff. This would lock both outdrives under power and off power, without the need of the over-tightened screw and extra heavy diff grease that many have been talking about. I guess the only question is will the bearings hold up under load now that they are no longer doubled up in one direction. I would have tried it, but as I stated before, one of my bearings is bad so I will have to get a replacement before I can complete it. I did put together one side of the diff and it works great. Just a thought, tell me what you guys think!!!!!

Greg Anderson