kh15: You actually need to break it in at 2 volts, for that same period of time with a fan on the motor to keep it cool. If you have a battery pack assembled so you can see the battery bars, then you can use wire/alligator clips to jump from the positive of one cell, and the negative of the next cell, to the motor. It will be 2.4 volts, close enough to do the job, and using mostly what you already have. The biggest thing would to be sure you discharge all of the cells in the pack in a similar fashion before you try and recharge it. Honestly though, depending on the person building your motor for you, you will likely need to rebuild the motor within 10 runs, so you could actually just run the motor in the car kinda slow for the first few laps of practice. It isnt the "motor builders" way of doing it, but it is the easiest. :)

- DaveW


BTW... JOHNBULL: Hows the racin going? We just had a hurricane run through here, and a few tropical depressions before that, nothing but yucky RAIN! :cry:

yea i have pre assembled team orion 3000mah packs so i will just run my car VERY slow for like 10 minutes and that should do it i'm not to seriouse of a racer yet so if its not the best way to do it but it will work i'll use that technique thanks

Help!!!
 

I have been searching for about 30 minutes now and I can't find the link to the site that sells the milled chassis. Can someone please help this 'old man drawing a blank' out with the link?

Yup...same as before. Give me a call sometime (after 9PMest please:D ).

Re: Help!!!
 

Anyone?

Rafaelli. Greetings from Malta.

It's a very easy job to do your own chassis mods.

When preparing customer chassis (TC3) I do the battery mod to move the cells further towards the centre, I also enlarge the hole below the motor for better cooling, and I round off the top of the former ahead of the motor so it's ready to take a fan.

That's all I do to them. They don't need anything else.

I used to mill them on a milling machine but I now do them freehand. I can almost get one completed in the time it takes to set the chassis up on the milling machine.

The last one I did a couple of days ago took about an hour to do.

Try it. You don't need to hurry. It's easy, believe me.

Good luck.

Re: Re: Help!!!
 

www.speedierc.homestead.com

and

http://www.mistercrash.ca/_themes/pa...ciated_tc3.htm

Johnbull,

How are things in Malta?

I at the end of the last indoor season I milled out the chassis with my dremel and dremel press. It took a couple of hours. I think the results were pretty good. I was looking for that web site for future reference.

I am starting to clena up my car for the coming indoor season and noticed that I may have done a little too far with the dremel in the diff cases. Ooops!

Are you and your group heading to the worlds?

Eric,

Thank you!

okay slowly but surely i'm get my setup right and right now i'm working on just the right setup for asphalt, i have THIS so far but all the stuff that is blank i need help with?

Rafaelli.

No Worlds for us this time.

Can't afford the time or money - more the money actually, to travel half way across the World, even though we would love to.

We'll have to wait till they return to Europe. Hopefully they won't be too far from the Med.

Re: Re: Re: Help!!!
 

People still looking for that website?!?!... :lol:

I have one super dialed-nicely hopped up BMI Tc3 in the for sale section here: Got everything you'll need to be competitive already on it or done to it.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=47457

hey Dave .. the set up ran good on the slower days when the majority of the folks wanted to run rubber .. but when the fast guys demanded foams I had to change it or get run over .. I finally found a good set up for a one way and used that the last race .. and aside from the folks with sponsors I was the second fastest .. so it wasnt a bad weekend ..

have fun racing everyone

E
:deathstar

TC3 Q's:
 

I've been battling this problem with my TC3 for a while now. Hopefully someone knows of a fix for this. The problem is mainly in the rear but sometimes in the front too.

The problem is with the parts that has the grub screw the is supposed to hold the out hinge pin in place. No matter how much I try to tighten the grub screw, the hinge pin still works it's way loose and will eventualy rub on the inner part of the wheel, leaving marks on the wheel itself. After a while the hole for the grub screw becomes stripped from me trying to tighten it too much and I have to change out the molded piece....Is this only happening to me..?

Also, is there an upper bumper plate for the TC3 like the one for the NTC3? I know BMI makes one but I don't think it will match the FT graphite very well...?

Thanks