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Quote:

Originally posted by Boomer
That will change the geometry of the front arm. . .making it a semi-trailing arm and would make more backward caster as the suspension is depressed. . . the way it looks (slightly slanted upward) it would decrease the amount of caster slightly as the arm moves down. . .

How do you find it affects your steering? The car's behavior?

i tried spacing the height of the torque rod ends so it has the minimum decrease of caster as the suspension moves...maybe making the rod parallel would be better but i ran out of spacers..LOL

Quote:

Originally posted by trf racer
finsy i own a wcr and have driven other peoples tc3 and there just isnt any comparison the wcr just pisses it right up.

also ive tried torque rods and gives less stering due to increase in caster and changes suspesion geomatry when the ride height changes.
i personally dont like toque rods.

i'll ignore you :sneaky:

Quote:

Originally posted by Cracker78
Wouldn't those torque rods cause the suspension to bind up because the rod is trying to pull/push the c-block backward/forwards and the c-block doesnt move that way because of how it is hinge pinned to the a-arm. I suppose it could work depending on how much slop there is in the joint where the c-block and a-arm are hinged. Just curious...

i took off the dampers and moved the arms and it seems to not bind at all...but then again there might be some binding that i cant feel...and with these small cars a slight binding means it's a lot of binding :)

Quote:

Originally posted by Hooked
Sweet ride Finsy ... I think the IRS chassis looks so trick ... I have thought about switching, but haven't as of yet ...

I was going to ask you about the bracing (torque rod) in front but I see that it has been explained ...

dont ask me how both chassis work as i put on the IRS chassis when i got the FTTC3 so i have no idea how the stock graphite chassis perform...but i can say the IRS chassis has more flex than stock(super stiff) so that might help as i'm running aspalt

If any of you guys is gonna try putting a torque rod please let me know...as maybe you could have a better way of mounting it...and also how does it affect the car...i never really noticed anything apart from the stiffer supported front end(i'm a newbie remember?;) )...maybe you guys culd fill it up for me so that maybe by installing/removing the rod could be use as a setup tool

I'll ignore TRF, but after I say one thing. trf- why do you go stirring sh*t on other forums out of the blue? I don't think it makes many people like you, so why don't you go back to your cave and suck on your bottle of warm milk.

Quote:

Originally posted by phatskeemz
do any of you guys know the dc volts and the mh of the fans the ae team ran at the reedy race or what do you run thanks

repost

phatskeemz - i dont know what voltage or amphere the team is using but both 12v and 6v fan works ...i think it's .03amp/h on mine..dont have it on hand so i couldnt confirm

I've got a BRAND NEW graphite chassis milled out (batteries lowered, moved in, servo cut out and motor area opened a tad)...

If interested e-mail me at [email protected]

Torque rods are best used on low suspension travel setups. If used on anything other than... then you will get what some refer to as "reactive caster". The more bite your car runs on... the more likely it is to "chatter" as it goes through the turns... i have noticed it is more profound in cars with a one-way. To avoid binding... just simply make sure the suspension arms move freely up and down without the shocks mounted. Torque rods will help calm this "chatter"... without having to soften the suspension considerably. Yes, it can cause the geometry to change... but like any turnbuckle mounted on an R/C car... it all depends on where you mount it as to how much of the effect you get. The HPI PRO2 benefited well from these rods on carpet... but the TC3 is so agressive and tight... i cant see why anyone would want to add torque rods to it. The ones pictured above are quite straight where mounted... and would effect the geometry very little. Caster would stay very close to setting... and wheel chatter would be minimal. I bet the car is very twitchy to drive though. Dunno... just my .02.
- Dave

Quote:

Originally posted by Finsy
I'm not sure if i can describe it well...but what i did was make a slot using a dremel on the center brace so that it clears the corally plugs...attach is a quick drawing of it...will take pic soon for you if u need it....i did 4 slot so that i could move the batteries forward or backward if i need to

Will this mod make the car more flex??

Hooked: Thanks for your pic.They are very clear.

Quote:

Originally posted by Finsy
Pic of my ride:-

posted specially for "Hooked" ... :D ;)

Is it the IRS chassis?How much is it?

Re: Battery fitting

Quote:

Originally posted by Tsubasa Sakai
Hooked: Thanks for your pic.They are very clear.

Hope they helped ... :)

Quote:

Originally posted by wiley
phatskeemz - i dont know what voltage or amphere the team is using but both 12v and 6v fan works ...i think it's .03amp/h on mine..dont have it on hand so i couldnt confirm

thanks wiley:nod: :nod: :nod: :nod:

freeing up suspension

Hello, I am putting together a ft tc3. I noticed that the suspension was somewhat tight, the arms don't drop after I lift them up (shocks disconnected). What can I use to free up a arm and pin and ballcups? Thanx
Charles Stevens

you need to polish your hinge pins, if not after so many runs they should wear and become free.

Thx Johnny, What compound should I use to polish with? Polish ball cups also?

You can use toothpaste i heard, i cant think of the polish right now, its too late, never polish the ball cups(dont see how you could anyways) or the ball ends, if you do, you create more slop in the suspension system.