"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
07-19-2009, 04:37 AM
#421
Hi Jilles,
Thanks for the shock building video. One question about the step where you place the bladder and cap on top and close up the shocks:
In my manual (TA05-R), the directions say to have the shaft/piston all the way at the bottom of the shock body before placing the bladder on top and closing the cap of the shock, but in your video I see that you've got the piston just slightly below the top of the shock before you put the bladder on and cap it off.
I've currently built the shocks per the manual's instructions, but would like to know what the benefit would be to do it per the method you employed in your instructional video.
Thanks!
Thanks for the shock building video. One question about the step where you place the bladder and cap on top and close up the shocks:
In my manual (TA05-R), the directions say to have the shaft/piston all the way at the bottom of the shock body before placing the bladder on top and closing the cap of the shock, but in your video I see that you've got the piston just slightly below the top of the shock before you put the bladder on and cap it off.
I've currently built the shocks per the manual's instructions, but would like to know what the benefit would be to do it per the method you employed in your instructional video.
Thanks!
07-19-2009, 06:03 AM
#422
Hi Jilles,
Thanks for the shock building video. One question about the step where you place the bladder and cap on top and close up the shocks:
In my manual (TA05-R), the directions say to have the shaft/piston all the way at the bottom of the shock body before placing the bladder on top and closing the cap of the shock, but in your video I see that you've got the piston just slightly below the top of the shock before you put the bladder on and cap it off.
I've currently built the shocks per the manual's instructions, but would like to know what the benefit would be to do it per the method you employed in your instructional video.
Thanks!
Thanks for the shock building video. One question about the step where you place the bladder and cap on top and close up the shocks:
In my manual (TA05-R), the directions say to have the shaft/piston all the way at the bottom of the shock body before placing the bladder on top and closing the cap of the shock, but in your video I see that you've got the piston just slightly below the top of the shock before you put the bladder on and cap it off.
I've currently built the shocks per the manual's instructions, but would like to know what the benefit would be to do it per the method you employed in your instructional video.
Thanks!
jilles way little or no rebound
07-19-2009, 07:05 AM
#423
jilles was woundering which bearings you perfer to use
07-19-2009, 08:58 AM
#424
Tech Apprentice
hi jilles,
im racing at the weekend 24th/25th july and the track is a little bumpy, i know you like to use zero rebound generally but would this still apply for a bumpier track or would it be better to have more rebound???
does more rebound make the car react faster as well as make it twichy and less rebound make car react slower but easier to drive??
many thanks
mark
im racing at the weekend 24th/25th july and the track is a little bumpy, i know you like to use zero rebound generally but would this still apply for a bumpier track or would it be better to have more rebound???
does more rebound make the car react faster as well as make it twichy and less rebound make car react slower but easier to drive??
many thanks
mark
07-19-2009, 11:59 AM
#425
Hi Jilles!
Well done on taking the ETS Championship and the Tamiya 1-2-3 at the last round!
Thanks for the great thread! One thing on running zero rebound...
We run foam tyres on asphalt. The track is smooth and mostly has good grip.
What rebound and springs would you recommend for running stock and then for mod?
Thanks
Well done on taking the ETS Championship and the Tamiya 1-2-3 at the last round!
Thanks for the great thread! One thing on running zero rebound...
We run foam tyres on asphalt. The track is smooth and mostly has good grip.
What rebound and springs would you recommend for running stock and then for mod?
Thanks
Last edited by Ricky/C; 07-19-2009 at 01:24 PM. Reason: spelling
07-19-2009, 01:22 PM
#426
JILLES GROSKAMP!!!!!
07-19-2009, 06:18 PM
#429
Tech Master
CONGRATULATIONS!
07-19-2009, 08:19 PM
#430
Tech Apprentice
congrats Jilles!!
i hope next tamiya car would be named 416 JGH Edition.. i would definitely get one of that
i hope next tamiya car would be named 416 JGH Edition.. i would definitely get one of that
Last edited by krat; 08-18-2009 at 05:34 AM.
07-19-2009, 10:51 PM
#431
Congratulation on winning the ETS series, Jilles. Ur the man!!
07-20-2009, 02:48 AM
#433
Congratulation Jilles for taking the ETS 08/09 crown......
wondering how you protect all the electronics when wet race....can you give the pics how you cover all the electronics...
thanks...
wondering how you protect all the electronics when wet race....can you give the pics how you cover all the electronics...
thanks...
07-20-2009, 04:38 AM
#434
Hello Guys,
Thanks for all the replies on my ETS win!
I will try to answer all questions from the last couple of days:
StickyFingaz,
I use dragbrake nr.2 on the Nosram Speedo, it's not much.
Handling a modified is different then a stock car so try to go not too much with the motors but start with 4.5. I did run some rebound in Roseville last year.
3.1415926,
It all depends on which tyres you use and on which track surface. Most of the time we don't scrubb the tyres, it's just a personal feeling.
Syndrome,
No problem!
1. We use standard plastic parts, black color.
2. Aluminium standard
3. Low Friction sway bars ends? I never heard about this before!
Ed,
I think a shock should have the same length but I think the way I measure it is good enough to have for equal shocks.
94Eg,
When I check the camber I put my car on a set-up board with battery and I check the camber. I also rotate the wheels because most wheels are not perfect straight. I don't push it down or anything else.
Dimitri,
Most of the time I use the old 416 chassis, sometimes the WE chassis. WE is easier to drive but less steering then the old chassis. In general 90% we use the old 2.25 chassis.
IQ0,
Nitro I always use little rebound, feels better.
Encore75,
The futher you push the piston up the less rebound you will get, ( less oil in the shock). TA05 needs more rebound that's why the manual suggest to run more rebound by leeave the shock piston down.
Senna Racing,
I prefer the Tamiya Ceramic Hop-Up bearings.
Mark,
Less rebound has more traction, more rebound car is better for bumpy track.
Ricky/C,
I have little experience with foam on asphalt. I can't say.
t4m1y4niac,
For the rain yesterday I used a gel box. I put the speedo and receiver in the box. I made small holes in it to transfer the wires. I don't have a picture from this.
Oke, tonight I will be heading to Gubbio Italy for the Euros 200mm nitro.
So any reply on this topic can be little delayed!
Jilles
Thanks for all the replies on my ETS win!
I will try to answer all questions from the last couple of days:
StickyFingaz,
I use dragbrake nr.2 on the Nosram Speedo, it's not much.
Handling a modified is different then a stock car so try to go not too much with the motors but start with 4.5. I did run some rebound in Roseville last year.
3.1415926,
It all depends on which tyres you use and on which track surface. Most of the time we don't scrubb the tyres, it's just a personal feeling.
Syndrome,
No problem!
1. We use standard plastic parts, black color.
2. Aluminium standard
3. Low Friction sway bars ends? I never heard about this before!
Ed,
I think a shock should have the same length but I think the way I measure it is good enough to have for equal shocks.
94Eg,
When I check the camber I put my car on a set-up board with battery and I check the camber. I also rotate the wheels because most wheels are not perfect straight. I don't push it down or anything else.
Dimitri,
Most of the time I use the old 416 chassis, sometimes the WE chassis. WE is easier to drive but less steering then the old chassis. In general 90% we use the old 2.25 chassis.
IQ0,
Nitro I always use little rebound, feels better.
Encore75,
The futher you push the piston up the less rebound you will get, ( less oil in the shock). TA05 needs more rebound that's why the manual suggest to run more rebound by leeave the shock piston down.
Senna Racing,
I prefer the Tamiya Ceramic Hop-Up bearings.
Mark,
Less rebound has more traction, more rebound car is better for bumpy track.
Ricky/C,
I have little experience with foam on asphalt. I can't say.
t4m1y4niac,
For the rain yesterday I used a gel box. I put the speedo and receiver in the box. I made small holes in it to transfer the wires. I don't have a picture from this.
Oke, tonight I will be heading to Gubbio Italy for the Euros 200mm nitro.
So any reply on this topic can be little delayed!
Jilles
07-20-2009, 09:42 AM
#435
gefeliciteerd Jilles
great result after a mixed weekend
where did you get the "gel box" for waterproofing ???
and how do you waterproof the motor ?? mainly the sensor part , i have ruined 1 LRP 13.5 by just running on the damp grass !!!
well you be compeating in the Dutch Tamiya Chalange at Hot Wheels ,Deventer on the 2nd of August ????
great result after a mixed weekend
where did you get the "gel box" for waterproofing ???
and how do you waterproof the motor ?? mainly the sensor part , i have ruined 1 LRP 13.5 by just running on the damp grass !!!
well you be compeating in the Dutch Tamiya Chalange at Hot Wheels ,Deventer on the 2nd of August ????