"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
06-21-2010, 03:46 PM
#1171
Thank you and all the best.
06-22-2010, 01:52 AM
#1172
- cheehtae
Some tyres/inserts have this problem more then others. There is not much you can do about this. Sometimes it's good to have some grooves, this means you have traction!
- Bigdogracing
Normally a softer chassis is more forgiving when you drive your car. It drives more easy. Set-up changes are more difficult to feel with a soft chassis. A stiffer chassis should be faster, especially in a highspeed section, but a stiffer chassis requires also more tuning and also is more sensitive for different track temps. Start with the topdeck, cut a sleeve in the topdeck and you will notice the differents.
- Bigdogracing,rccartips,
Thanks! Will do my best next week!
- Shaunmac
Thanks! No problem!
- AZ416
At a event and the car is running fine, I normally clean the car and prep. the tyres and leave it till the next heat. Sometimes I check the ride height again. For the next day I always re-check camber, droop, ride heigth and chassis screws.
Jilles
Some tyres/inserts have this problem more then others. There is not much you can do about this. Sometimes it's good to have some grooves, this means you have traction!
- Bigdogracing
Normally a softer chassis is more forgiving when you drive your car. It drives more easy. Set-up changes are more difficult to feel with a soft chassis. A stiffer chassis should be faster, especially in a highspeed section, but a stiffer chassis requires also more tuning and also is more sensitive for different track temps. Start with the topdeck, cut a sleeve in the topdeck and you will notice the differents.
- Bigdogracing,rccartips,
Thanks! Will do my best next week!
- Shaunmac
Thanks! No problem!
- AZ416
At a event and the car is running fine, I normally clean the car and prep. the tyres and leave it till the next heat. Sometimes I check the ride height again. For the next day I always re-check camber, droop, ride heigth and chassis screws.
Jilles
all the best for the worlds next week =) =) =)
06-22-2010, 10:59 AM
#1174
- cheehtae
Some tyres/inserts have this problem more then others. There is not much you can do about this. Sometimes it's good to have some grooves, this means you have traction!
- Bigdogracing
Normally a softer chassis is more forgiving when you drive your car. It drives more easy. Set-up changes are more difficult to feel with a soft chassis. A stiffer chassis should be faster, especially in a highspeed section, but a stiffer chassis requires also more tuning and also is more sensitive for different track temps. Start with the topdeck, cut a sleeve in the topdeck and you will notice the differents.
- Bigdogracing,rccartips,
Thanks! Will do my best next week!
- Shaunmac
Thanks! No problem!
- AZ416
At a event and the car is running fine, I normally clean the car and prep. the tyres and leave it till the next heat. Sometimes I check the ride height again. For the next day I always re-check camber, droop, ride heigth and chassis screws.
Jilles
Some tyres/inserts have this problem more then others. There is not much you can do about this. Sometimes it's good to have some grooves, this means you have traction!
- Bigdogracing
Normally a softer chassis is more forgiving when you drive your car. It drives more easy. Set-up changes are more difficult to feel with a soft chassis. A stiffer chassis should be faster, especially in a highspeed section, but a stiffer chassis requires also more tuning and also is more sensitive for different track temps. Start with the topdeck, cut a sleeve in the topdeck and you will notice the differents.
- Bigdogracing,rccartips,
Thanks! Will do my best next week!
- Shaunmac
Thanks! No problem!
- AZ416
At a event and the car is running fine, I normally clean the car and prep. the tyres and leave it till the next heat. Sometimes I check the ride height again. For the next day I always re-check camber, droop, ride heigth and chassis screws.
Jilles
And the reason you only have to check ride height is cause you don't hit anything!
I personally have to recheck my whole setup after a full run 90% of the time....
06-22-2010, 01:33 PM
#1175
Tire choice
Hi Jilles!
How you think, what rubber better suits for modified on asphalt track - sweep 32, sweep 36, Xenon 32 (looks like sweep 32) or RP30GL (pre-mounted)?
Earlier I successfully used RP30 but on last competition with light JB inserts they were destroyed for 2 heats from new.
May be this inserts don`t suit to RP30 tire and can better use RP30GL or other inserts?
What your choice of the rubber and inserts if rule resolved any choice?
WBR, Eugene.
How you think, what rubber better suits for modified on asphalt track - sweep 32, sweep 36, Xenon 32 (looks like sweep 32) or RP30GL (pre-mounted)?
Earlier I successfully used RP30 but on last competition with light JB inserts they were destroyed for 2 heats from new.
May be this inserts don`t suit to RP30 tire and can better use RP30GL or other inserts?
What your choice of the rubber and inserts if rule resolved any choice?
WBR, Eugene.
06-23-2010, 03:01 PM
#1176
Tech Initiate
Hey Jilles all the support from a true top 5 racer is great, it would be nice to see some of the other top guys getting involved.
1, My query is about the servo saver, I currently run the TRF blue alloy arm the kit plastic saver and 1 gold and 1 black circular spring. The problem is that the springs do not seem strong enough and saver is giving to easily. Am I better running without the saver and just running a fixed arm or do you build yours up with stronger springs or something?
2, When building shocks I find the plastic oring that goes in the bottom with the silicon oring sometimes is to big and needs sanding down so not to compress the silicon oring on the shock shaft to much which can slow the movement, have you ever had to do this? Also do you use the standard tamiya 3 hole pistons or do you drill the holes out bigger?
Thanks and good luck for the worlds....
1, My query is about the servo saver, I currently run the TRF blue alloy arm the kit plastic saver and 1 gold and 1 black circular spring. The problem is that the springs do not seem strong enough and saver is giving to easily. Am I better running without the saver and just running a fixed arm or do you build yours up with stronger springs or something?
2, When building shocks I find the plastic oring that goes in the bottom with the silicon oring sometimes is to big and needs sanding down so not to compress the silicon oring on the shock shaft to much which can slow the movement, have you ever had to do this? Also do you use the standard tamiya 3 hole pistons or do you drill the holes out bigger?
Thanks and good luck for the worlds....
06-23-2010, 03:23 PM
#1177
You should have 2 gold springs on the servo saver. The tamiya one is very stiff, they need replacing quite often though
jilles has also said previously that he uses a normal oring in place of the plastic one in the shocks. Since reading it here I built a set up like that and they are great
jilles has also said previously that he uses a normal oring in place of the plastic one in the shocks. Since reading it here I built a set up like that and they are great
06-24-2010, 11:57 PM
#1178
Tech Initiate
hi jilles...I'm from Indonesia....hope you remember this pic 
...when you visit indonesia last year 2009........hope you may join us for sometimes again....
if i may know the spring you used last "year end race"... thanks before...
...when you visit indonesia last year 2009........hope you may join us for sometimes again.... if i may know the spring you used last "year end race"... thanks before...
06-25-2010, 03:40 AM
#1179
Tech Initiate
You should have 2 gold springs on the servo saver. The tamiya one is very stiff, they need replacing quite often though
jilles has also said previously that he uses a normal oring in place of the plastic one in the shocks. Since reading it here I built a set up like that and they are great
jilles has also said previously that he uses a normal oring in place of the plastic one in the shocks. Since reading it here I built a set up like that and they are great
I have tried the doulble O Ring trick and its works fairly well but only for indoors as you tend to run a stiffer shock, for out doors in the UK we tend to run the shocks quite light and free so the 2nd oring increases the damping to much, found this out from another trf team driver.
The reason for the question on the shocks and mainly aimed at the pistons is that I am told they run MM 500-600wt oil but when I build mine with this oil my shocks seem much harder and slower hence the thought of drilling out the standard trf pistons from 0.9mm to 1.1mm or something.
Cheers
06-25-2010, 08:35 AM
#1180
Tech Apprentice
416we to 416x
I have a 416we that I want to upgrade to a 416x,I have the upper and lower deck sorted but what els do I need to change to get it to a x. Thanks for the help in advance.
06-25-2010, 10:13 AM
#1181
- Artwork
I use tyres warmers when it is cold or when the rubber isn't soft enough and needs heat to get softer. With tyres warmers the additive goes into the tyre better and is much dryer before you run.
- Eugene
I personally like the RP30 tyres really much. This tyre is the fastest at the MACH track in Heemstede, my local track. But I recommend a molded inserts and not JB insert as this was designed for carpet racing or when it is really cold outside. Sweep 36 is also pretty good performance and tyre wear is less then RP30.
- Blue247carz
I always use the servo saver from Tamiya but I use 2 gold rings and 1 black one. You need to replace them a couple of times a year. A fixed servo saver is oke but the response isn't good and when you have a big crash the servo or servohorn brakes more easy.
Use fresh o-ring and they will fit perfect together. I never drill the holes bigger. I always use standard 3 hole piston.
-bijono
Hi, how are you! You joined the final race in Indonesia together with your father and brother right? I used on both stock and mod car HPI blue springs.
Hopefully Sadikin from Maxspin invite me again for the end race in Indonesia, big fun!
- charl mac
If you want a full upgrade you need, front and rear bulkheads, motormount, center bulkhead, small bearings for centerpulli shaft, topdeck and chassis.
You can use your WE front bulkheads in combination with both old and new chassis.
Will be back next week after the Worlds!
I use tyres warmers when it is cold or when the rubber isn't soft enough and needs heat to get softer. With tyres warmers the additive goes into the tyre better and is much dryer before you run.
- Eugene
I personally like the RP30 tyres really much. This tyre is the fastest at the MACH track in Heemstede, my local track. But I recommend a molded inserts and not JB insert as this was designed for carpet racing or when it is really cold outside. Sweep 36 is also pretty good performance and tyre wear is less then RP30.
- Blue247carz
I always use the servo saver from Tamiya but I use 2 gold rings and 1 black one. You need to replace them a couple of times a year. A fixed servo saver is oke but the response isn't good and when you have a big crash the servo or servohorn brakes more easy.
Use fresh o-ring and they will fit perfect together. I never drill the holes bigger. I always use standard 3 hole piston.
-bijono
Hi, how are you! You joined the final race in Indonesia together with your father and brother right? I used on both stock and mod car HPI blue springs.
Hopefully Sadikin from Maxspin invite me again for the end race in Indonesia, big fun!
- charl mac
If you want a full upgrade you need, front and rear bulkheads, motormount, center bulkhead, small bearings for centerpulli shaft, topdeck and chassis.
You can use your WE front bulkheads in combination with both old and new chassis.
Will be back next week after the Worlds!
06-25-2010, 12:39 PM
#1182
thank you for information!
and good luck on track!
WBR, Eugene.
and good luck on track!
WBR, Eugene.
06-26-2010, 06:46 AM
#1183
Tech Initiate
@ Jilles
we are fine.. ...actually that's my son picture with you, I was only as a mechanic for him when we had race last year....and yes ...hope some big guy would invite you to come again this year.....and many thanks for assisting how to set this sweet 416.... .... GBU...
regards,
Bijono
we are fine..
...actually that's my son picture with you, I was only as a mechanic for him when we had race last year....and yes ...hope some big guy would invite you to come again this year.....and many thanks for assisting how to set this sweet 416.... .... GBU...regards,
Bijono
06-28-2010, 07:42 PM
#1184
Ever-so-dearest Jilles,
In MOD TC Racing is drag brake setting a matter of personal preference or do all the fastest guys share similar settings?
And how much or little do you use when racing TC?
Regards and continued luck at the Worlds,
-Mr. Sticky Fingaz
In MOD TC Racing is drag brake setting a matter of personal preference or do all the fastest guys share similar settings?
And how much or little do you use when racing TC?
Regards and continued luck at the Worlds,
-Mr. Sticky Fingaz
06-29-2010, 06:13 AM
#1185
@ anyone
are there any plans to reinvent something similar to the pro module arms used on the 415 for the 416?
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...roduct-id=1004
(and as a side note if anyone can answer it - what tracks suit this setup more for a 415, carpet or asphalt and rubber or foam tyres as i've never understood their purpose).
thanks
are there any plans to reinvent something similar to the pro module arms used on the 415 for the 416?
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...roduct-id=1004
(and as a side note if anyone can answer it - what tracks suit this setup more for a 415, carpet or asphalt and rubber or foam tyres as i've never understood their purpose).
thanks