NicolaiSorensen

Hey guys.

For 3 years now, i have racing the Xray car - but now i think it's time to try something new, as the Xrays performance outdoor not is good enough (In my opinion), compared with Tamiya and Yokomo.

I have read a lot about the new Yokomo 1/10 touringcar, the BD5W, and i think it's gonna be my next car. so i have a questions for you guys.

which parts of the car is the most often parts that breaks with impackts?

i have write down a list with parts im going to buy, at the moment:

A-arms
front hub
rear hub
Steering blocks
turnbuckles
hingepins
And offcourse a spool (Still haven't figured out the "smart" idea, why it comes with oneway???)

As i said, before i drove the Slovakia tank Xray T3 that almost break nothing even with the hardest impackts. (and yes i have tried it)

So therefore, i don't really know what breaks on a car.

- is there more i need to add to this list?
offcourse i got a lot small accessories on the list also, but i want to know the most importen parts..

Thanks
//Nicolai

Andy63

To add to Nicolai´s question. please do also write down very neccesary hop up parts that need to get upgraded for the best performence. i think the BD5W already is well equiped, but u never know :P hehe

defcone

iTrader: (15)

Buy a pack of shims so you can play with roll centres and wheelbases.

NicolaiSorensen

I already writed that down to. but thanks anyways

My list is on 300$ at the moment, i think it's gonna be hard to add more parts
But yes, hop-up parts would be nice to! i have already added full Hpi spring set on the list, because for what i have read, they in some conditions, are better than the original Yokomo spring..
or maybe im wrong?

vitomon

could somebody post pictures of their car showing the servo mounting and servo horn in combination with the 2 balancing weights in front? i fear that the servo horn will touch the balancing weights but it is hard to move the servo back in my view due to the fixation in the middle of the car. can somebody answer that ?? cheers guys.

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

The BD5W kit comes with two types of servo horns. Its comes with one with a spring and no spring. The manual will tell you in the process of building. I am not using a tamiya servo saver w/aluminum horn an d not the front two weights but rather going for the Yokomo bumper weight set where you add weight plates in the bumper (SD-001WS)

http://www.driftspeed.com/index.php?...oducts_id=2179

P.S. the aluminum yokomo brace that comes with the bumper kit will not fit the BD5 because the holes are 5mm rather than the bd5's 6mm post

vitomon

well, sofar at least ronald is doing fine at the worlds being right at the pace within the top 3. (groskamp, ronald, hara)

kschu

iTrader: (16)

A-arms --- graphite arm very durable...
front hub ---get the plastic c-hub if your graphite c-hub breaking alot
rear hub --- i only break once due crash to the wall
Steering blocks --- get the graphite
turnbuckles --- get the longer turnbuckle for the steering linkage
hingepins --- front & rear + the outer pin
And offcourse a spool (Still haven't figured out the "smart" idea, why it comes with oneway???) ---get ROCHE spool (cheap and reliable)

get the 1 pc stabiliser holder if your budget allow, make your sway bar adjustment easier.

other than that, i didnt add any other things else except for the ceramic bearing which make the car more smoother and better...

vitomon

anybody has access to the setups they used in germany for the worlds? especially hayato and yannic?? still looking for a standard kit setup that will work in medium grip conditions on a more open track with the vtec30x tires.

FrankH

There are always Questions

Read that you are currently in Germany, practicing for the ETS Final in Andernach?

Would be cool if you could share some Setups for the Track

Will be there next week Wednesday

vitomon

hi guys,
just finished building my first yok.
great stuff and it was really fun building it. however, i encountered a problem at the real axle when i fist tested the car. it appears that the blades (and the metall pin) touch the upper bulkhead, causing some strange shatter when throttle is applied.

did any of you have the same problem? any solutions maybe. tried to shime up the upper bulkhead by 0,1mm but didnt go away. dont wanna shim to high, to free up the excenter to much ?!=!

thx for any help

cheers

kschu

iTrader: (16)

is d the dogbone pin hitting the ball stud ??

vitomon

yes i think so

i just put a 0,5mm shims under the rear inner camber link and its all good. changed the rollcenter though

kschu

iTrader: (16)

u need to use the short ball stud to prevent the dogbone pin hitting..

u running on wat kind of track ?

vitomon

i think i did use the short ones. there were 2.

1 pair of darks and 1 pair of silver (short). i did use the silver ones at the rear.

edit: the track is an rather open track with long sweepers and some technical infield.
http://www.rc-laa.at/fotos/luftaufna...ftaufnahme.jpg