New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
#2057
Tech Adept
spring rates
as far as i know it is something like this:
yokomo/hpi
pink/blue
green/silver
orange/pink
as far as my experience, i find the yokomo springs work better when temperatures are low (around 20°C). when its a hot day like 30°C then i found
the hpi springs work better.
yokomo/hpi
pink/blue
green/silver
orange/pink
as far as my experience, i find the yokomo springs work better when temperatures are low (around 20°C). when its a hot day like 30°C then i found
the hpi springs work better.
#2058
This is my setup, nothing of really "strange"
Grip was medium high during the morning but in the afternoon was became really hot and grip is went down. Basically what i found change my car has been switch from 3° rear toe-in to 2,5°
I don't used the alluminium "bridge" (i don't know how to call it) over my steering. Feeling, may be wrong, was to have more front torsion.
At the rear i'm using since 2/3months ago the old BD/SD sway bars, seems they are working better respect to the original, may be a long leverage is working in a better way. Next time i want to try the R8 steering plate
I know for someone my oil could be too much thin, but i tryed to work changing few things starting from my basic setup for don't have a drastic change on my car.
Also i don't use the small foam inside my suspension because i think for to have a 0 rebound is better don't have it.
Hoping this can help you to find a better setup, i think is possible improve it.
I have attached a photo of my car, may be a photo explain better than my English, i'm sorry for this.
Grip was medium high during the morning but in the afternoon was became really hot and grip is went down. Basically what i found change my car has been switch from 3° rear toe-in to 2,5°
I don't used the alluminium "bridge" (i don't know how to call it) over my steering. Feeling, may be wrong, was to have more front torsion.
At the rear i'm using since 2/3months ago the old BD/SD sway bars, seems they are working better respect to the original, may be a long leverage is working in a better way. Next time i want to try the R8 steering plate
I know for someone my oil could be too much thin, but i tryed to work changing few things starting from my basic setup for don't have a drastic change on my car.
Also i don't use the small foam inside my suspension because i think for to have a 0 rebound is better don't have it.
Hoping this can help you to find a better setup, i think is possible improve it.
I have attached a photo of my car, may be a photo explain better than my English, i'm sorry for this.
#2060
Yes,
If you want you can update the screws with the Yok. Titanium Kit, is not so expansive and car became more light. I use the steels screws only for to fix my motor and with a Mazda6 Speed light i'm around at 1330/1340g (20g are only in the middle of chassis)
If you want you can update the screws with the Yok. Titanium Kit, is not so expansive and car became more light. I use the steels screws only for to fix my motor and with a Mazda6 Speed light i'm around at 1330/1340g (20g are only in the middle of chassis)
#2062
Tech Rookie
Sweet! Thanks! I'm looking forward to it. Do you know the price range it's going to be in?
#2063
Tech Adept
This is my setup, nothing of really "strange"
Grip was medium high during the morning but in the afternoon was became really hot and grip is went down. Basically what i found change my car has been switch from 3° rear toe-in to 2,5°
I don't used the alluminium "bridge" (i don't know how to call it) over my steering. Feeling, may be wrong, was to have more front torsion.
At the rear i'm using since 2/3months ago the old BD/SD sway bars, seems they are working better respect to the original, may be a long leverage is working in a better way. Next time i want to try the R8 steering plate
I know for someone my oil could be too much thin, but i tryed to work changing few things starting from my basic setup for don't have a drastic change on my car.
Also i don't use the small foam inside my suspension because i think for to have a 0 rebound is better don't have it.
Hoping this can help you to find a better setup, i think is possible improve it.
I have attached a photo of my car, may be a photo explain better than my English, i'm sorry for this.
Grip was medium high during the morning but in the afternoon was became really hot and grip is went down. Basically what i found change my car has been switch from 3° rear toe-in to 2,5°
I don't used the alluminium "bridge" (i don't know how to call it) over my steering. Feeling, may be wrong, was to have more front torsion.
At the rear i'm using since 2/3months ago the old BD/SD sway bars, seems they are working better respect to the original, may be a long leverage is working in a better way. Next time i want to try the R8 steering plate
I know for someone my oil could be too much thin, but i tryed to work changing few things starting from my basic setup for don't have a drastic change on my car.
Also i don't use the small foam inside my suspension because i think for to have a 0 rebound is better don't have it.
Hoping this can help you to find a better setup, i think is possible improve it.
I have attached a photo of my car, may be a photo explain better than my English, i'm sorry for this.
do you have a homepage or any pics from your track??
#2064
http://www.automodelli.it/forum/topi...TOPIC_ID=38197 here you can find some photo about the track, one of the best circuits that we have in North Italy
#2065
#2068
Quick question on the black rubber shock diaphragms in the BD5 (YS-8HD). Are these a clean fit and an easy build?
I'm having problems with some recently-bought silicone diaphragms (YS-8DMH) expanding on contact with shock oil, getting caught up in the cap threads, and making the shock hard to build consistently. Never seemed to be a problem in the very first bladder shocks I had on my SD.
And how do you find the new blue o-rings (YS-7HG)?
I'm having problems with some recently-bought silicone diaphragms (YS-8DMH) expanding on contact with shock oil, getting caught up in the cap threads, and making the shock hard to build consistently. Never seemed to be a problem in the very first bladder shocks I had on my SD.
And how do you find the new blue o-rings (YS-7HG)?
#2069
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
Quick question on the black rubber shock diaphragms in the BD5 (YS-8HD). Are these a clean fit and an easy build?
I'm having problems with some recently-bought silicone diaphragms (YS-8DMH) expanding on contact with shock oil, getting caught up in the cap threads, and making the shock hard to build consistently. Never seemed to be a problem in the very first bladder shocks I had on my SD.
And how do you find the new blue o-rings (YS-7HG)?
I'm having problems with some recently-bought silicone diaphragms (YS-8DMH) expanding on contact with shock oil, getting caught up in the cap threads, and making the shock hard to build consistently. Never seemed to be a problem in the very first bladder shocks I had on my SD.
And how do you find the new blue o-rings (YS-7HG)?
http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...ha_filter_id=0