Jules

Thanks. It's good to feel welcome.

Hopefully the motor, speedo and radio gear should arrive tomorrow.

Jules.

Bitoy

Jules

As for me, pinion gears ranging from 19T - 23T should be the size for 03s, more or less than that gives me headache.

19T for mod and 23T for 27stockers

Jules

Hi All,

Got my box of bits through the post this morning! Only to find the pinion on back order. I wanted to have a go today! Oh well....

I've fitted the receiver, steering servo, motor, and ESC.

Here's some pix of where I've got to.

http://www.cybernaught.co.uk/jules/R..._a_TA-03R.html

Cheers,Jules.

P.S. How do I hold the main battery in? I'm guessing I'm missing a part?

Bitoy

Jules

Yap, you're missing one.

If u don't have the piece that hold the batteries in place at the end of the slot (see the end of the holder with 3 holes in it), u have to tie ur battery wires in one of the holes so it won't fall out.


just a piece of. . . . . . . . . . .

Jules

Thanks for that Bitoy.

It wouldn't be part E.4 would it?

http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58214e.pdf

j.

Dayten

Jules

Looks like that's the part that you are missing. Part E4.

psycho

Jules

What's with the receiver pack? You don't need that. It just adds weight and a 4 cell pack will make the steering pretty slow. I would suggest you lose the bullet connectors on your motor too. It's best to hardwire the esc to the motor to reduce resistance. You can also make the wires the exact length you need to neaten things up. I would also recommend that you use a higher current battery connector like Deans connectors or power pole connectors. If you use side-by-side battery packs, you can also direct solder the leads easily. If you use Tamiya connectors, they have a tendency to arc and fuse together which makes them tough to get off. The plastic housing may melt too. If you don't have a good connection on your battery and motor, it can add to the electrical noise that your receiver picks up and cause glitching where your car suddenly veers left or the throttle acts weird, etc. Are you nervous about racing electric yet? Those little things make your racing experience much more pleasurable since you aren't having to chase your tail fighting elecrtical problems.

I can't tell from the picture, but there are a couple other things that you can do to reduce glitching and improve efficiency. If your speed control does not have reverse, you should add a schotke diode on the motor. If your ESC has reverse, DO NOT USE A DIODE. The silver stripe on the diode goes on the positive side of the motor and the other end goes on the negative side of the motor. This will improve the system's efficiency since the ESC doesn't have to fight the voltage that the motor creates when it is spinning. Also, if your motor doesn't have built in capacitors, you can solder them on to help reduce glitching. Look on the motor endbell and see if you see .10 micro(it's actually the symbol for micro, the little "u" with a tail on it) F. If you see that, you already have caps on the motor. Most of the current Trinity and Peak motors have them built in. If you don't have them, you should install them by soldering one between the + and - side of the motor, tie one lead from each of two caps together and solder it to the eye on the motor or scratch off the paint from the can and solder directly to the can. The other lead of each cap, solder one to the + side and the other to the - side. Good luck!

Dayten

Psycho

Great suggestions.

Jules

Psycho has a lot of great suggestions and information. I race againt him at our local track and he has helped me a lot with the setup of my car. Psycho, I think you need to go to the expert class.

psycho

Dayten

I like racing in the a-main! Besides, I'll wait until I'm invited to race the expert class! Seriously, I need to work on my consistancy before I'm invited to the porch with the big dogs. That reminds me, you missed an awesome race in the expert b-main. Jaime started 10th on the grid and carved his way through the field to the 2nd spot. Cam and Jaime were battling it out the last few laps of the race for the 2nd spot and they both came across the line right next to each other. Jaime ended up taking 2nd and Cam 3rd. Their times were separated by .06 seconds. That was a cool race to watch!

Dayten

Psycho

Wow that sounds like an awesome race. Sorry I missed it. I hope to make it next month. Looks like the Castle Cup will be a good show. I'll most likely stop by just check out the action.

dugrant153

JUST GOT A TA03F.

DAVID JUN EDITION! WOOHOO!!!

Need tips, guys

Bitoy

in need

Guys;

right now i'm using my old rusty NOVAK M1 (ESC)

got no budget for micro's


question is, do I have to put .10microfarad/16V capacitor the way you guys use to with your newer ESC's?

mine is quite big that i can barely find place with my kit

Dayten

dugrant153

What type of tips are you looking for? Setup? I have a baseline setup for the TA03 at home so l'll post it a little later.

bitoy

Are you talking about capacitors for the motor? If you are, I always solder on capacitors to my motors to reduce glitching. Psycho has a good discription on what to do. I have the Newer Novak TC2 and it came with a capacitor when I purchased it. I would refer back to your owners manual for your ESC if you need one or not.

Jules

Wow! I wasn't expecting a master class!

Yep, there already are capacitors connected to the motor. I don't want to solder the ESC to the motor just yet, as it's a 'stock' 27 turn motor and cheap ESC, so they will be replaced in the future.

I haven't been to any race meets yet. It's only been car parks are the moment... ;-)

As for the batteries, the BEC circuitry in my receiver isn't very good. It stops working before the motor does... so I have to run after the car... or it crashes... not nice.

j.

psycho

Jules

Hmmm... sounds like a fun project! Good luck!