Simon A

Yes the shock will rebound quicker with lighter oil but the car will fell more responsive with heavier oil.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

You will have more pack, so the initial reaction will be quicker, but it will not generate as much traction as softer oil.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

anyone have the part number for the new tamiya tuned springs? they all come in white, but have small paint dots that lets you tell them apart (blue, yellow, red, etc)

thanks guys!

Stein Tumert

See post Post #13093 from a few days ago...
Stein

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Well as i checked last night, i realised i was using 20wt oil , so the bounce from the springs seems like the main culprit. Would you say that on a bumpy surface, you should use a heavier weight oil than u normally would, and you can adjust springs from there, or would you still want to keep the heavy springs with heavy oil and vice versa? Ive changed to 60wt oil using the same springs. Ill try tamiya blues and whites next also.

OK raising roll centre. Every description ive read of roll centre shows a diagram where your trace the top link and arm to a point. what do you guys do if the a arms are like \ / instead of / \? I can understand the theory if your arms look like / \, but how can you get the intersection of your top link and a arms if your arms look like \ / ??? Do you guys run like 3mm of spacers under the blocks or something? Thats the only way i can see to adjust it. The T2's arms can easily be seen to be / \. I noticed the difference between the T2 suspension and the 415, was the vertical distance between the rear axle, and the hub pivot point, where it pivots on the a arm, was alot less on the 415. there is a difference of about 2mm, which means the T2 hub pivot point, was 2mm further below the axle, which means for the same ride height the T2's arms were / \ and the 415 was \ /.

As you can probably tell im still relatively new to all this, but starting to think i should ignore the theory and just keep trying things?

Do you guys think 2deg toe out on the rear is excessive also? I was running 1 deg on my 05, and it was nice, with some small adjustment of the front inner linkage to reduce the steering. Thanks for all the replies guys

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

I coplied this from my earlier post dated 03/07

My set-up was close to Marc R. Las Vegas Set-up, which I downloaded from the Tamiya site, with the following exceptions:

Stock 2.5mm Chassis – 4mm not yet available
Springs 30 lbs front / 25 lbs rear
Blue front sway bar
Droop or Up-travel: 1.5mm front / 3.0mm rear
Rear block: A/C (only because I ran out of D blocks –otherwise would have used B/D)
Rear Toe in: 2 degree (used a 1 degree hub)
Front Block: D/D (use a 4mm wheel hex, no spacers)
Track width: 190mm for both (need wheel spacer & 5mm wheel hex in the rear to achieve 190mm width)
All other setting are the same as Marc R’s.

JACO 2-satge 2x Pink Orange Fr / 2x Pink Rears (57mm)
Roll-out 26.5-27.2mm stock
Roll-out 29mm 19T

Biggest benefit: was the chassis braces I used from an old 415 standard kit attached to the front & rear chassis post to stiffen the overall chassis.

Stein Tumert

Do you mean Toe in? I don't think you would want toe out at the rear...
2 deg toe in on the rear is not excessive.

If you mean 2 deg toe out for the front, it is probably excessive...

Stein

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

[QUOTE=axle182]

OK raising roll centre. Every description ive read of roll centre shows a diagram where your trace the top link and arm to a point. what do you guys do if the a arms are like \ / instead of / \? I can understand the theory if your arms look like / \, but how can you get the intersection of your top link and a arms if your arms look like \ / ??? Do you guys run like 3mm of spacers under the blocks or something? Thats the only way i can see to adjust it. The T2's arms can easily be seen to be / \. I noticed the difference between the T2 suspension and the 415, was the vertical distance between the rear axle, and the hub pivot point, where it pivots on the a arm, was alot less on the 415. there is a difference of about 2mm, which means the T2 hub pivot point, was 2mm further below the axle, which means for the same ride height the T2's arms were / \ and the 415 was \ /.

QUOTE]

Per Martin Crisp:
A high roll center (which reduces the roll) can be achieved by either adding shims under the hinge pin blocks or removing shims from the upper link on the inside attachment point. In other words you want the inboard end points of the lower A arm and the upper link closer together than the outboard end points of the A arm and the upper link.

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Sorry i meant toe in. thanks.

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Well on my car, i already have 1mm shims under the blocks, no shims under the inner linkage point, and about 3mm of shims under the outer upper linkage point. My question was more of the / \ versus \ / when looking at the rear or front arms. I just noticed that the T2 is alot different than the 415 in this area. I was ondering if anyone has tried T2 hubs on the 415? Anyways, ill see what the oil change in the shocks will do, and go from there. Thanks guys

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

I had a t2 and sold it...no need to change the hubs...especailly consider that the t2 had molding issues with their hubs....

Martin Crisp

I believe some guys at my local track are running tamiya rear hubs/uprights on their T2, while they wait for xray to fix the molding issue.

Stein Tumert

We currently run 2.5 deg toe in at the rear (indoor carpet/rubber tires) which works well...

Stein

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi guys, just to let you know, there is a little skype contact button on my front page now...
Cheers
Ed

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

You are going to regret doing that