John.C

iTrader: (37)

I took a break from RC for a couple of months and it appears I've missed out on some things (some good and not so good). I can't wait to get the A700 out again at my favorite indoor asphalt track. Anyone try Steen's aspahlt setup? I'm looking for a good 17.5 stock setup for a technical, high bite, asphalt track.

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys I got an A700 coming shortly thinking about putting a savox servo in it ....any reccomendations.... should it be low profile?

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

I would need to spend a couple weekends there. My initial runs were pretty tough on the car there. You are better off starting with Freddys setup with the following changes;

• Mazda6 body
• Front long camber links / medium rear camber links
• Solid top deck
• Front gear diff with 500k
• 2.5 rear toe
• Front arms raised 1.5mm / rear arms flat
• Black front swaybar / brown rear swaybar

• Any brand of the low profile work fine. Preference is the Spektrum, RadioPost, Futaba. I found that the low profile will give you the most flexibility of forward mounting the ESC to get a better weight balance

John.C

iTrader: (37)

Thanks Mark!! I'll take a look at Freddy's setup sheet and make the appropriate changes.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

The goal is to soften the car as much as possible. Take away initial steering and front bite, start with the spool - if it lacks steering try the gear diff.

The front roll center for the C is better when it is higher than what we usually run.

John.C

iTrader: (37)

After struggling at my last race (couple of months agao at MRH) I posted my setup. Oleg chimed in to confirm that I had made an error in setting my spring tension. My setup was SRS/RHS ARR I but I was using the SRS/RHS ARR II values resulting in a very stiff car (120+ gF/mm). As a result, I struggled mightly with rear grip, twitchy handling, and traction roll issues. I've since corrected this and I'm now in the appropriate range (60gF/mm - 80gF/mm) both front and rear. I'm cautiously optimistic at my chances for a better showing/result at my next outing.

bozzplayer

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys was hoping anyone can help me measure all the different ways of the shocks, example I'm looking to achieve this shock setting 100.2gf/mm 1.6mm(setting B) and 5mm(setting A) I'm using screw arrangement 2, i know how to setup setting B, but was hoping someone can make it little clear how to do all these settings and in what order, thanks for any help guys.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I always setup the A value first, as this also affects the damping rate, so use that to achieve the damper level I'm after. A is in effect the corser adjust, because it tunes both spring and damper.

Secondly, I'd set the B value, as this only affects the spring rate, so use this more as the fine tune to get your springing right.

HiH
Ed

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I'm looking to replace the (AT21) pivot ball with traditional ball studs in some areas. Has anyone found an suitable replacement ball stud that works/fits the (P13-x) ball end?

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Kyosho

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys is it normal for the drive shaft to have wear on it where it sits up against the bearings?

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Are you using the shaft/bearing guides mid chassis?

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Yes thats wear the wear is ....is it normal to have wear on the driveshaft wear it sits up against the bearings on the mid chassis bearing guide.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Both of my cars have some shadow of a wear line near the bearings. Sure that it is the natural rotation of the shaft at high speed with the way the chassis works.

I have not had any issue with it. Lots of miles on my cars without any case to worry.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Same here.