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Old 06-17-2009, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SCD WldCrd
Those who run 17.5 brushless on their f103, I would like to know the gearing to start. I may give the brushless a shot on mine.
17.5 in the F103 has been great. I've been running this combo for the past few months. After playing around with gearing for a few weeks, I've settled on 93/30 (FDR = 3.10).
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:12 PM
  #2042  
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Not sure if it's been asked, but does anyone know if the F104 body will fit the F103RM ?

Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:39 PM
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...s-one-run.html
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:49 AM
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I managed to rummage into my LHS' old stocks and they still had an old Titanium Rear Shaft Tamiya P/N 53396. It's cheaper than the carbon shaft too. Checking on Tamiya's site, this part is already discontinued.

Just wanna ask, what's the biggest effect in using a lighter rear shaft?
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mailboxck
I managed to rummage into my LHS' old stocks and they still had an old Titanium Rear Shaft Tamiya P/N 53396. It's cheaper than the carbon shaft too. Checking on Tamiya's site, this part is already discontinued.

Just wanna ask, what's the biggest effect in using a lighter rear shaft?
Sometimes the metal shafts bend, even very very slightly. It can be hard to spot. Carbon or fiberglass usually is either good or broken.
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mailboxck
I managed to rummage into my LHS' old stocks and they still had an old Titanium Rear Shaft Tamiya P/N 53396. It's cheaper than the carbon shaft too. Checking on Tamiya's site, this part is already discontinued.

Just wanna ask, what's the biggest effect in using a lighter rear shaft?
Car will spool up faster on acceleration, but you might want to think twice about running the titanium shaft, it is light, but also very soft and has a tendency to bend. The carbon axle is more expensive, but is tougher than you might think
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:46 AM
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Im not sure why im even responding to this, but I looked at the post that you linked to, and let me tell you, save yourself the trouble and get out of the hobby before you burn alot of money. You drove the car for two minutes and it didnt feel right? so its for sale? Dude I looked at the pics u posted and that car needs a lot of work just from what i can see, not counting what isnt evident from the pics. Im not talking about throwing good money after bad, im talking about building and preparing the car properly. Biggest thing is to mount the electronics on the lower chassis to keep the CG down. Your wiring is a rats nest, you need to be cleaner with things like that. Cut the wheel wells out of the body, I guarantee you that you are limiting the movement of the wheels and that is why the car doesnt feel right. I would go to a touring car or GT type body if I were you , but im trying to help you with what you have. These cars take hours to tune in to where you like the way they work, and thats after starting with a good build job off the bat.
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW
Im not sure why im even responding to this, but I looked at the post that you linked to, and let me tell you, save yourself the trouble and get out of the hobby before you burn alot of money. You drove the car for two minutes and it didnt feel right? so its for sale? Dude I looked at the pics u posted and that car needs a lot of work just from what i can see, not counting what isnt evident from the pics. Im not talking about throwing good money after bad, im talking about building and preparing the car properly. Biggest thing is to mount the electronics on the lower chassis to keep the CG down. Your wiring is a rats nest, you need to be cleaner with things like that. Cut the wheel wells out of the body, I guarantee you that you are limiting the movement of the wheels and that is why the car doesnt feel right. I would go to a touring car or GT type body if I were you , but im trying to help you with what you have. These cars take hours to tune in to where you like the way they work, and thats after starting with a good build job off the bat.
I did tune it but the car still spins out on full acceleration, also my wire look like a "birds nest" because i had to take out my esc because it went coo coo so i had to take the zip ties in order to do that, another thing the body is bigger then most 1/10 so i can use it without cutting the wheel wells, another thing VSM doesn't fit anywhere on the chassis.
TAMIYA F103 RM-0621091142.jpg
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW
Car will spool up faster on acceleration, but you might want to think twice about running the titanium shaft, it is light, but also very soft and has a tendency to bend. The carbon axle is more expensive, but is tougher than you might think
Thanks for the heads up! For the longest time I was thinking that the carbon axle is a big no no as some of our local racers do not suggest it if you have a tendency to hit walls and other drivers.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:57 AM
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How bout a link to the killer setup page for my new F 103 RM.
Has alum upgrades, motor plate, shock, hub, chassis upper and lower.

I'm gonna run carpet at OCRC and maybe the Tamiya track if possible.
Got a couple base setups with gearing tips?
Thanks to any F 1 tech'ers
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:08 AM
  #2051  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
How bout a link to the killer setup page for my new F 103 RM.
Has alum upgrades, motor plate, shock, hub, chassis upper and lower.

I'm gonna run carpet at OCRC and maybe the Tamiya track if possible.
Got a couple base setups with gearing tips?
Thanks to any F 1 tech'ers
DAMN IT, CUDA!!!!!!!!!!! IF I'D KNOWN YOU DECIDED TO GET AN F103 I WOULD RACE WITH YA THIS SATURDAY BUT I'LL BE IN THE TCS RACE!!!!!!!!!!! HA CHA CHA CHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway, if you go on Saturday, you can ask Ian at the store and he'll help you out on the setup. If you'll be at OCRC tomorrow, I'll be stopping by to see your new baby and maybe provide you my setup.... if you're running Mabuchi. Have fun, man.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:38 AM
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Wildman,
isn't TCS at the Tamiya in Aliso Viejo?
If so I wanna go!
It's in my back yard, I could walk there in 10 minutes.
I need a setup for there if they'll let me race on such short notice.
Hot CHA CHA CHA that amigo!
Besides, OCRC has their Saturday series racin offroad this Saturday, no onroad anyway.
I'm gonna try to get to OCRC tonite as well as tomorrow nite.
Stop by and help me out!
Bring $9 ha ha ha ha.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:48 AM
  #2053  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
Wildman,
isn't TCS at the Tamiya in Aliso Viejo?
If so I wanna go!
It's in my back yard, I could walk there in 10 minutes.
I need a setup for there if they'll let me race on such short notice.
Hot CHA CHA CHA that amigo!
Besides, OCRC has their Saturday series racin offroad this Saturday, no onroad anyway.
I'm gonna try to get to OCRC tonite as well as tomorrow nite.
Stop by and help me out!
Bring $9 ha ha ha ha.
If you're still looking forward to TCS then register online at Tamiya America. No limit on entries which is a good thing. I'll bring $9 if you have change for a hundred. HA CHA CHA CHA back at ya.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:51 AM
  #2054  
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Default F104 Diff in a F103

Hy there!

Wanted to share with you that the F104 Carbon rear shaft and the diff set is a direct fit in any F103 Chassis.

Take a look at the pictures!

TAMIYA F103 RM-25062009781.jpg

TAMIYA F103 RM-25062009782.jpg

TAMIYA F103 RM-25062009780.jpg

Hope it works as well as it looks !

Greetings Blueman
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:22 PM
  #2055  
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Originally Posted by SCD WldCrd
If you're still looking forward to TCS then register online at Tamiya America. No limit on entries which is a good thing. I'll bring $9 if you have change for a hundred. HA CHA CHA CHA back at ya.
Can I sign up at the track?
Not sure if I can make it.
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