Alvin

slowhand: Just came back. On the way out I was thinking about the lowered CG. I do not feel it is lowered; the CG of the car is about the chassis right? So even if the chassis is "lowered" relative to the suspension arms, in the end we will still need to set a ride height.

Let's say for a 5mm ride height, no matter how the suspension arm spacers are placed, won't the CG still be the same? The front/rear roll centre (ala roll axis) will be affected, it will be raised higher. I can see how this could possible improve traction -> higher roll centre has high roll resistance, so the chassis will roll less in corners, though if the roll axis is too high the car could gain positive camber through corners.

Do let me know your thoughts.

ijnek: I'd say SGD$350-400? I sure would love another 414m chassis if I could afford one!

slowhand

Alvin: The CG of a car is not on the chasis, CG is an imaginary point in space where the mass of the entire car is accounted for. The distance between the CG and the Roll Center (RC) of the car is one important factor determining the handling the car. When a car turning into a corner, the car will try to keep going straight while the tires will try to turn. The sideways force acting on the car can be said to be acting at one point, the CG. The forces resisting the car can be said to be acting at one point, the RC. The further these two points are apart, the greater effect the Roll Moment will have on the suspension, or the more the car will roll.

Alvin

slowhand: I see... anyway, best to the upcoming race. I will be leaving singapore for awhile, will only be back this friday.

slowhand

Alvin: no problem! I wished i could explain in more detail but in much simpler way.
Anyway, I 'll post some pictures of Surikarn's latest modification in my website in the next few days..
Cheers..

Alvin

Sure! Can't wait for it! I hope to be able to obtain just the necessary parts to convert my 414 to the WC edition, apart from the new shocks

slowhand

Alvin: as previously mentioned, you can try with 2mm & 3mm (FRONT) and 3mm & 2mm (REAR) first. You only need to dremel the front belt's path on the front's rear end suspension block so that the front belt do not touch the susp. block.
Keep me posted with your findings..

Alvin

slowhand: Sure thing! But it will be earliest friday when I'm back. I'll give you an update once I do a track test!

Regards,
Alvin

kansasracer

iTrader: (3)

Guys,

I am looking at getting a new car. I have been running a TC3 with the full IRS setup on it for more than a year. Looking at getting the new 414M II (with all the blue alloy pieces)...

Knowing this is a 414 thread, I am not gonna ask if you kike the car, but what do you like about the car.

I just want a car that is responsive to changes, but not too hard to figure out...

Thanks

TRF_SPAIN

slowhand can u post the URL of you webpage??? iīm really interested in!
And if you have time drop me a mail to [email protected] or [email protected]
Thank you!

pUs

Hm, some of you guys are mentioning "the new dampers" for the 414-M2. By that, do you mean the blue-anodized low-friction TRF dampers? On the pictures, I noticed Surikarnīs Tamiya had the old grey-anodized ones. Is there a newer damper than the blue TRF-ones?

marvi

iTrader: (82)

thanks alvin cant wait to run my 414. just finished assembling it yesterday and installed all the electronics. i was thiking of using 48p because the outdoor track that i run in has lots of loose pebbles and bits of asphalt. BTW, will the aluminum pulleys be better than the plastic ones? i think that theyre a bit heavier than the plastic pulleys but will they be more resistant to debris? when i had a pro3 with plastic pulleys, bits of dirt always lodge on them and increase belt wear. thanks again for any info

Jack

hi marvi..
if u are talking about the plastic one way unit..
yes , it will be better if u change those to the alum unit..
they last longer.

marvi

iTrader: (82)

thanks one more thing, is there a way to shield the rear ball diff? i saw the x-ray diff and it has "labryinth-seal flanges." has anyone fabricated something like that without binding the diff outdrives? im thinking of using scrap lexan.
also, what is the wt equivalent of the yellow shock oil? i use 40, 60, or 80wt when tuning my cars but i have no idea how to compare this to the "yellow #400" tamiya oil.

Jack

with regards to the shield..
at this moment i dont think any have done somthing like that yet..
the tamiya #400 yellow is the same as the normal 40wt shock oil

marvi

iTrader: (82)

thanks again