Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

hey guys i have a question for ya,

i am not running onroad, but i thinki can get the info i need here...

i am running an sc10 indoors on carpet with jumps, some are up to 12 feet long.

we are running 17.5 motors, (mine is a duo 2) my settings are as follows

gearing 21, 78
profile 4
timing 40
ramp 2
start 4700
end 11000
delay.03
no turbo

motor temp 150ish

no drag, push or reverse...

the track is 65x 40, no full straight, lots of 180

the question i have is this

i understand that if the "gap" between start and end rpm is smaller it is more punchy and vice versa

but how do i know where the range should be??? how high is too high, how low is too low???

i hope i put that right......

thanks for the help

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Glad someone has a sense of humor around here.
Thanks again bud.
And I agree, at the Tekin website there are already setups to get most folks started in the right direction.
It would help to streamline things here if more peeps would start there first.

Your base setup would have been just fine all day, but I like to tinker, and actually improved on it for the conditions at our track, for that day.
Temps never exceeded 130f, and that was at the warmest point in the day.

It is also interesting how we used to have to use turbo to get top speed.
Now even without turbo, speeds and acceleration have improved.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

I'll take a stab at this, and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
In general terms...
If the rpm range is too small, you may notice cogging, high temps, and an early dump feel.

If the range is to wide, you may not feel the acceleration, or punch you are looking for, and most likely your temps will be quite cool.

However I really have no idea what the correct settings are for your application as I'm of the direct drive genre.
Oh, the ramp, and delay will have no effect with no turbo activated, I assume you know that, just sayin.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

For offroad I think you're start and end rpm are too low.

Try this: Start of 5442, end of 20,000

You will get more punch when you're working the motor in the right power band and in the right rpm ranges. You're too low right now and I'd bet are overtiming the motor, therefore losing punch.

motomanpat

iTrader: (2)

What is the difference between the RS and the RS Pro???

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

You can run the lowest turn mod motors on the Pro. The regular RS works for everything else.

MetalShield

Problem with my RSpro after applied setting...

I swoop the ESC between two different cars (onroad to offroad and offroad to onroad)... I only have the one esc. Last week I used it for the offroad truck and it worked fine, no problems! This week I'm running onroad (12th)

I got it all installed, reprogrammed the 12th scale setting, wired it to the motor (Tekin 13.5 sensored) all correctly ABC and sensor wire plugged in but no power gets to the motor.... The ESC lights turn on and goes though its normal wakeup flashes but no sounds, I thought that was strange. When I pull the trigger the led lights increase and flash at maximum throttle which is normal, but still no motor. I receive power to the servo and it steers but I don't understand why I'm not getting any current to the motor, it worked great last week.

Could it be a bad sensor wire? Will a sensored motor still run with a damaged or intermittent connection? I noticed some of the plastic coating has worn in a couple of places...

Anyone have any advice??

Amoeba

iTrader: (2)

Just a shot in the dark from a relative RS newbie... Have you gone through the initial setup for your radio sync (neutral/forward/reverse)? It's possible the settings have wandered between the 2 receivers etc. If it's a possible bad sensor wire I believe you can put it in Dual Mode with the 2.03 version. If it works in Dual but not Sensored, your sensor wire may be the culprit.

MetalShield

I have the DX3R and use the dsm2 receivers in each car changing only the model setting. I have done it this way many times. The Bind is ok and I have full control of the throttle and steering, but the motor just isn't receiving any current to spool up.

motomanpat

iTrader: (2)

So by low do you mean a 6.5 or do you mean lower. I am trying to figure out if the pro is worth it but I for sure will never be running anything lower than a 6.5. Is that really the only difference between the two versions?

chris_dono

ok, couple things...

no beeps = can't find neutral, re-bind your handset
one other thing... voltage cutoff (if you're using a 1S Lipo or 4-cell pack).. make sure it's not set to 6v or whatever from the buggy.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

for all practicality, yes that is the biggest difference between the 2 units - actually the RS can run down to a 5.5

oh that and the RS Pro is a 'taller' speedo then the RS - so if you have space constraints and will never run anything lower then a 6.5, you should probably just go with the RS

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I had the same problem 2 weeks ago. I changed the sensor wire and recalibrated my radio. It solved my problem. I found a bad wire on the old sensor wire when I finally got a chance to look at it.

SteveL

iTrader: (23)

Do you have a rx pack in the 1/12 scale car? I'm assuming that your off road is 2s and 1/12 is 1s packs? If your rx pack is not fully charged it will allow the esc to turn on, find the signal and provide steering but no motor. Either fully charge the rx pack or install a booster and you should be good.

Other possibility is that the voltage cutoff is still set at 2s and the 1s pack is not providing enough voltage.

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

thanks ....that would explain the dead fealing it has at times....

i will raise them....