Tekin RS ESC sensored
01-27-2010, 07:30 AM
Problem with my RSpro after applied setting...
I swoop the ESC between two different cars (onroad to offroad and offroad to onroad)... I only have the one esc. Last week I used it for the offroad truck and it worked fine, no problems! This week I'm running onroad (12th)
I got it all installed, reprogrammed the 12th scale setting, wired it to the motor (Tekin 13.5 sensored) all correctly ABC and sensor wire plugged in but no power gets to the motor.... The ESC lights turn on and goes though its normal wakeup flashes but no sounds, I thought that was strange. When I pull the trigger the led lights increase and flash at maximum throttle which is normal, but still no motor. I receive power to the servo and it steers but I don't understand why I'm not getting any current to the motor, it worked great last week.
Could it be a bad sensor wire? Will a sensored motor still run with a damaged or intermittent connection? I noticed some of the plastic coating has worn in a couple of places...
Anyone have any advice??
I swoop the ESC between two different cars (onroad to offroad and offroad to onroad)... I only have the one esc. Last week I used it for the offroad truck and it worked fine, no problems! This week I'm running onroad (12th)
I got it all installed, reprogrammed the 12th scale setting, wired it to the motor (Tekin 13.5 sensored) all correctly ABC and sensor wire plugged in but no power gets to the motor.... The ESC lights turn on and goes though its normal wakeup flashes but no sounds, I thought that was strange. When I pull the trigger the led lights increase and flash at maximum throttle which is normal, but still no motor. I receive power to the servo and it steers but I don't understand why I'm not getting any current to the motor, it worked great last week.
Could it be a bad sensor wire? Will a sensored motor still run with a damaged or intermittent connection? I noticed some of the plastic coating has worn in a couple of places...
Anyone have any advice??
The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?
We need more info to help...
01-27-2010, 07:49 AM
When powered up and after what should be the chime sequence/arming sequence what led's are shown? The led's are very important as they provide diagnostic information.
The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?
We need more info to help...
The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?
We need more info to help...
What we were doing was factory reset + reflash. It worked most of the time.
01-27-2010, 08:00 AM
I have a question.
I just received two replacement RSs from Tekin for dead ones. I hooked them up to the Hotwire to update the ESC to 203 and run the update. It says complete but then gives me the "Unable to communicate after update" error. Great. I try to apply some new settings and it tells me to go to the Tekin site then blank. Great now I have a brand new dead ESC.
So as long as the Hotwire sees the ESC I try updating it and updating it for about five attempts, after the fifth time it is successfully updated, takes the new settings and works in the car (1/12 with 1S).
Now I hook up the second one and have to repeat the same process. Is this normal to get 203 loaded in?
I just received two replacement RSs from Tekin for dead ones. I hooked them up to the Hotwire to update the ESC to 203 and run the update. It says complete but then gives me the "Unable to communicate after update" error. Great. I try to apply some new settings and it tells me to go to the Tekin site then blank. Great now I have a brand new dead ESC.
So as long as the Hotwire sees the ESC I try updating it and updating it for about five attempts, after the fifth time it is successfully updated, takes the new settings and works in the car (1/12 with 1S).
Now I hook up the second one and have to repeat the same process. Is this normal to get 203 loaded in?
01-27-2010, 08:03 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I have a question.
I just received two replacement RSs from Tekin for dead ones. I hooked them up to the Hotwire to update the ESC to 203 and run the update. It says complete but then gives me the "Unable to communicate after update" error. Great. I try to apply some new settings and it tells me to go to the Tekin site then blank. Great now I have a brand new dead ESC.
So as long as the Hotwire sees the ESC I try updating it and updating it for about five attempts, after the fifth time it is successfully updated, takes the new settings and works in the car (1/12 with 1S).
Now I hook up the second one and have to repeat the same process. Is this normal to get 203 loaded in?
I just received two replacement RSs from Tekin for dead ones. I hooked them up to the Hotwire to update the ESC to 203 and run the update. It says complete but then gives me the "Unable to communicate after update" error. Great. I try to apply some new settings and it tells me to go to the Tekin site then blank. Great now I have a brand new dead ESC.
So as long as the Hotwire sees the ESC I try updating it and updating it for about five attempts, after the fifth time it is successfully updated, takes the new settings and works in the car (1/12 with 1S).
Now I hook up the second one and have to repeat the same process. Is this normal to get 203 loaded in?
01-27-2010, 08:05 AM
Odd thing I noticed the last time I tried to re-calibrate. When I went there the modes. Once I got to the final setting of break. My speedo just keeps on beeping. As if it does not read my in a break position. Any clue what is going on.
01-27-2010, 08:08 AM
do you use the brake adjustment point on the TX for brakes,if it is not at 100 it wont read it
01-27-2010, 08:28 AM
I just don't get it. Everything worked so much better before 203.
01-27-2010, 08:34 AM
I've run into a very similar problem in the past, luckily it was an easy fix and I didn't brick an ESC before I fixed it.
Sometimes updating firmware it wouldn't chime afterwards [this happened back with v198 the most], and the RS would act very strange, I had to reflash several times to get everything back to being happy.
I traced it down to the USB cable not fully seated into the hotwire. The bottom part of the hotwire case is too tall, and you can get a very slight comm error if the cable isn't in all the way. I trimmed away part of the case with an xacto blade so the USB cable seats in fully with a very slight "click" feel, without putting pressure on the USB cable end.
Haven't had a single issue since I trimmed the case with updating firmware or getting settings to "hold".
Might be worth a look.
Sometimes updating firmware it wouldn't chime afterwards [this happened back with v198 the most], and the RS would act very strange, I had to reflash several times to get everything back to being happy.
I traced it down to the USB cable not fully seated into the hotwire. The bottom part of the hotwire case is too tall, and you can get a very slight comm error if the cable isn't in all the way. I trimmed away part of the case with an xacto blade so the USB cable seats in fully with a very slight "click" feel, without putting pressure on the USB cable end.
Haven't had a single issue since I trimmed the case with updating firmware or getting settings to "hold".
Might be worth a look.
01-27-2010, 08:39 AM
When powered up and after what should be the chime sequence/arming sequence what led's are shown? The led's are very important as they provide diagnostic information.
The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?
We need more info to help...
The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?
We need more info to help...
Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!
Could it be a bad booster!?
Last edited by MetalShield; 01-27-2010 at 08:54 AM.
01-27-2010, 08:42 AM
I've run into a very similar problem in the past, luckily it was an easy fix and I didn't brick an ESC before I fixed it.
Sometimes updating firmware it wouldn't chime afterwards [this happened back with v198 the most], and the RS would act very strange, I had to reflash several times to get everything back to being happy.
I traced it down to the USB cable not fully seated into the hotwire. The bottom part of the hotwire case is too tall, and you can get a very slight comm error if the cable isn't in all the way. I trimmed away part of the case with an xacto blade so the USB cable seats in fully with a very slight "click" feel, without putting pressure on the USB cable end.
Haven't had a single issue since I trimmed the case with updating firmware or getting settings to "hold".
Might be worth a look.
Sometimes updating firmware it wouldn't chime afterwards [this happened back with v198 the most], and the RS would act very strange, I had to reflash several times to get everything back to being happy.
I traced it down to the USB cable not fully seated into the hotwire. The bottom part of the hotwire case is too tall, and you can get a very slight comm error if the cable isn't in all the way. I trimmed away part of the case with an xacto blade so the USB cable seats in fully with a very slight "click" feel, without putting pressure on the USB cable end.
Haven't had a single issue since I trimmed the case with updating firmware or getting settings to "hold".
Might be worth a look.
The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
01-27-2010, 08:48 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
That is why I tried a new USB cable and sent the Hotwire in to Tekin to check out. They sent it back and said it worked. I'll try your trick.
The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
01-27-2010, 09:07 AM
Tech Addict
Hey Randy, thanks for helping!! OK, esc set to 1S lipo voltage-cutoff set for 1S... I then re-bind the receiver, turn off the esc, removed the bind plug and connected the booster (bat/bind port), , set the radio to 100% brake and throttle settings ... turned esc on again, re-calibrated the esc, turn off/on again, arming sequence starts with no sounds and then finishes on the middle led (NW) solid for 3 seconds then flashes to the first led (DB) then immediately returns back to the middle led (NW) solid again for 3sec and ecs repeats this process.
Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!
Could it be a bad booster!?
Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!
Could it be a bad booster!?
If it works, then I'm gonna guess that you've got a voltage cut-off set (as well as the 1S tickbox set) in the hotwire settings, so when you turn your speedo switch on, it doesn't see enough voltage.
01-27-2010, 09:25 AM
That is why I tried a new USB cable and sent the Hotwire in to Tekin to check out. They sent it back and said it worked. I'll try your trick.
The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
01-27-2010, 10:03 AM
I spoke to the Hotwire guru at Tekin and it may be the USB bus that is the culprit. I started having this issue whenever the computer was in its docking station. AHA!
01-27-2010, 10:14 AM
Hey Randy, thanks for helping!! OK, esc set to 1S lipo voltage-cutoff set for 1S... I then re-bind the receiver, turn off the esc, removed the bind plug and connected the booster (bat/bind port), , set the radio to 100% brake and throttle settings ... turned esc on again, re-calibrated the esc, turn off/on again, arming sequence starts with no sounds and then finishes on the middle led (NW) solid for 3 seconds then flashes to the first led (DB) then immediately returns back to the middle led (NW) solid again for 3sec and ecs repeats this process.
Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!
Could it be a bad booster!?
Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!
Could it be a bad booster!?