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Old 01-27-2010, 08:30 AM   #11281
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Originally Posted by MetalShield View Post
Problem with my RSpro after applied setting...

I swoop the ESC between two different cars (onroad to offroad and offroad to onroad)... I only have the one esc. Last week I used it for the offroad truck and it worked fine, no problems! This week I'm running onroad (12th)

I got it all installed, reprogrammed the 12th scale setting, wired it to the motor (Tekin 13.5 sensored) all correctly ABC and sensor wire plugged in but no power gets to the motor.... The ESC lights turn on and goes though its normal wakeup flashes but no sounds, I thought that was strange. When I pull the trigger the led lights increase and flash at maximum throttle which is normal, but still no motor. I receive power to the servo and it steers but I don't understand why I'm not getting any current to the motor, it worked great last week.

Could it be a bad sensor wire? Will a sensored motor still run with a damaged or intermittent connection? I noticed some of the plastic coating has worn in a couple of places...

Anyone have any advice??
When powered up and after what should be the chime sequence/arming sequence what led's are shown? The led's are very important as they provide diagnostic information.

The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?

We need more info to help...
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:49 AM   #11282
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
When powered up and after what should be the chime sequence/arming sequence what led's are shown? The led's are very important as they provide diagnostic information.

The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?

We need more info to help...
I see the issue he's describing often after drivers update their ESC's to 203 or save new settings after changing motors... It acts just like you are in pit tuning mode but instead of scrolling the LED's back and forth it shows 1,2 + 6,7 flashing (wrong motor type). Even if you use Hot Wire to select the correct motor it stays stuck in pit tuningesq mode (no sound, leds show throttle pull, censor lights flash if you turn motor but no power to motor).

What we were doing was factory reset + reflash. It worked most of the time.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:00 AM   #11283
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I have a question.

I just received two replacement RSs from Tekin for dead ones. I hooked them up to the Hotwire to update the ESC to 203 and run the update. It says complete but then gives me the "Unable to communicate after update" error. Great. I try to apply some new settings and it tells me to go to the Tekin site then blank. Great now I have a brand new dead ESC.

So as long as the Hotwire sees the ESC I try updating it and updating it for about five attempts, after the fifth time it is successfully updated, takes the new settings and works in the car (1/12 with 1S).

Now I hook up the second one and have to repeat the same process. Is this normal to get 203 loaded in?
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:03 AM   #11284
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I have a question.

I just received two replacement RSs from Tekin for dead ones. I hooked them up to the Hotwire to update the ESC to 203 and run the update. It says complete but then gives me the "Unable to communicate after update" error. Great. I try to apply some new settings and it tells me to go to the Tekin site then blank. Great now I have a brand new dead ESC.

So as long as the Hotwire sees the ESC I try updating it and updating it for about five attempts, after the fifth time it is successfully updated, takes the new settings and works in the car (1/12 with 1S).

Now I hook up the second one and have to repeat the same process. Is this normal to get 203 loaded in?
No - this is not normal. I have updated about 10 Tekin RS's for myself and other racers, all updated perfectly the first time around.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:05 AM   #11285
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Odd thing I noticed the last time I tried to re-calibrate. When I went there the modes. Once I got to the final setting of break. My speedo just keeps on beeping. As if it does not read my in a break position. Any clue what is going on.

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Old 01-27-2010, 09:08 AM   #11286
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Odd thing I noticed the last time I tried to re-calibrate. When I went there the modes. Once I got to the final setting of break. My speedo just keeps on beeping. As if it does not read my in a break position. Any clue what is going on.

do you use the brake adjustment point on the TX for brakes,if it is not at 100 it wont read it
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:28 AM   #11287
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No - this is not normal. I have updated about 10 Tekin RS's for myself and other racers, all updated perfectly the first time around.
I sent my PC interface into Tekin and they said it was fine. I removed all the previous Hotwire software installs from my computer and installed the latest version from the website. I even used a different USB cable and I still had to do multiple attempts to get the update to work.

I just don't get it. Everything worked so much better before 203.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:34 AM   #11288
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I've run into a very similar problem in the past, luckily it was an easy fix and I didn't brick an ESC before I fixed it.

Sometimes updating firmware it wouldn't chime afterwards [this happened back with v198 the most], and the RS would act very strange, I had to reflash several times to get everything back to being happy.

I traced it down to the USB cable not fully seated into the hotwire. The bottom part of the hotwire case is too tall, and you can get a very slight comm error if the cable isn't in all the way. I trimmed away part of the case with an xacto blade so the USB cable seats in fully with a very slight "click" feel, without putting pressure on the USB cable end.

Haven't had a single issue since I trimmed the case with updating firmware or getting settings to "hold".

Might be worth a look.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:39 AM   #11289
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
When powered up and after what should be the chime sequence/arming sequence what led's are shown? The led's are very important as they provide diagnostic information.

The guys are right that you should re calibrate the esc to the radio first. Did you go from your 2s offroad to a 1s onroad application?

We need more info to help...
Hey Randy, thanks for helping!! OK, esc set to 1S lipo voltage-cutoff set for 1S... I then re-bind the receiver, turn off the esc, removed the bind plug and connected the booster (bat/bind port), , set the radio to 100% brake and throttle settings ... turned esc on again, re-calibrated the esc, turn off/on again, arming sequence starts with no sounds and then finishes on the middle led (NW) solid for 3 seconds then flashes to the first led (DB) then immediately returns back to the middle led (NW) solid again for 3sec and ecs repeats this process.

Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!

Could it be a bad booster!?
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Last edited by MetalShield; 01-27-2010 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:42 AM   #11290
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I've run into a very similar problem in the past, luckily it was an easy fix and I didn't brick an ESC before I fixed it.

Sometimes updating firmware it wouldn't chime afterwards [this happened back with v198 the most], and the RS would act very strange, I had to reflash several times to get everything back to being happy.

I traced it down to the USB cable not fully seated into the hotwire. The bottom part of the hotwire case is too tall, and you can get a very slight comm error if the cable isn't in all the way. I trimmed away part of the case with an xacto blade so the USB cable seats in fully with a very slight "click" feel, without putting pressure on the USB cable end.

Haven't had a single issue since I trimmed the case with updating firmware or getting settings to "hold".

Might be worth a look.
That is why I tried a new USB cable and sent the Hotwire in to Tekin to check out. They sent it back and said it worked. I'll try your trick.

The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:48 AM   #11291
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That is why I tried a new USB cable and sent the Hotwire in to Tekin to check out. They sent it back and said it worked. I'll try your trick.

The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
Have you tried a different PC/Computer? This is a variable that Tekin has Zero control over, and if you got something jacked up on your computer, or if you have some bad or glitchy hardware, it could be the cause.
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:07 AM   #11292
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Hey Randy, thanks for helping!! OK, esc set to 1S lipo voltage-cutoff set for 1S... I then re-bind the receiver, turn off the esc, removed the bind plug and connected the booster (bat/bind port), , set the radio to 100% brake and throttle settings ... turned esc on again, re-calibrated the esc, turn off/on again, arming sequence starts with no sounds and then finishes on the middle led (NW) solid for 3 seconds then flashes to the first led (DB) then immediately returns back to the middle led (NW) solid again for 3sec and ecs repeats this process.

Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!

Could it be a bad booster!?
Try it again with the booster, but leave the ESC switch off, just turn on the booster switch.

If it works, then I'm gonna guess that you've got a voltage cut-off set (as well as the 1S tickbox set) in the hotwire settings, so when you turn your speedo switch on, it doesn't see enough voltage.
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:25 AM   #11293
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
That is why I tried a new USB cable and sent the Hotwire in to Tekin to check out. They sent it back and said it worked. I'll try your trick.

The setting held with no problem. The issue is that I needed to try multiple loads to update the ESCs. I even used a different USB port too.
Yeah, give it a try. Updating requires a longer comm interval than just updating settings, so a good connection with the hotwire is a must.
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:03 AM   #11294
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Yeah, give it a try. Updating requires a longer comm interval than just updating settings, so a good connection with the hotwire is a must.
I spoke to the Hotwire guru at Tekin and it may be the USB bus that is the culprit. I started having this issue whenever the computer was in its docking station. AHA!
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:14 AM   #11295
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Originally Posted by MetalShield View Post
Hey Randy, thanks for helping!! OK, esc set to 1S lipo voltage-cutoff set for 1S... I then re-bind the receiver, turn off the esc, removed the bind plug and connected the booster (bat/bind port), , set the radio to 100% brake and throttle settings ... turned esc on again, re-calibrated the esc, turn off/on again, arming sequence starts with no sounds and then finishes on the middle led (NW) solid for 3 seconds then flashes to the first led (DB) then immediately returns back to the middle led (NW) solid again for 3sec and ecs repeats this process.

Also, with the above process completed on a 1S Lipo (tried two different batteries, full charge)... I have steering NO motor.
I then tried turnning off the esc unplugged the 1S and connected a 2S (with all the same setting as above and removed the booster), funny thing the sounds chime esc arms itself and power to everything. Motor spools up and all works fine!

Could it be a bad booster!?
OK does it NOT chime when u have the 1c application, but the steering works, AND the leds on the esc, just no motor OR chime, if so i have the answer..
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