Tekin RS ESC sensored
08-25-2008, 08:54 PM
#856
Word.
08-25-2008, 11:51 PM
#857
Tekin Rs and Rs pros back in stock
Rs pros $209.99 shipped to your door!!
www.highvelocityracing.com
Rs pros $209.99 shipped to your door!!
www.highvelocityracing.com
08-26-2008, 09:58 PM
#860
Had my RS mounted on the goofy aluminum motor "scoop" that Tamiya uses on their chassis. Mainly to give it more surface area to mount on, since the chassis cutouts in that area are pretty big. The car shut off in my first run a few minutes in (servo and all) and then came back on for a few seconds, and then shut off again. I removed it from the scoop for the next round and it's been fine since. I had an LRP do goofy things when mounted on a scoop a while back, so I kind of suspected that was the issue. I don't know what the deal is, really, maybe static? Anyway, just a heads up.
08-27-2008, 08:26 PM
#862
I guess it's not necessary, but I would think that if you're racing you'll want it. Without it you can still change drag brake, rev/brake strength, current limit, neutral width, throttle profiles, motor type, and voltage cutoff. The big things you can't do (AFAIK) are adjust the ESC timing and toggle "sensored only" mode.
So, the short answer to your question is that yes, it'll be "good" out of the box, but the Hotwire makes it "great".
So, the short answer to your question is that yes, it'll be "good" out of the box, but the Hotwire makes it "great".
08-28-2008, 09:27 AM
#863
Reen is correct. It will be good out of the box. There are a lot of options that can be adjusted with the onboard interface. However motor timing and sensored only mode must be accessed by a Hotwire.
If you are trying to maximize the RS or any other current Tekin esc you should pick up a Hotwire.
If you are trying to maximize the RS or any other current Tekin esc you should pick up a Hotwire.
08-28-2008, 10:07 AM
#864
Reen is correct. It will be good out of the box. There are a lot of options that can be adjusted with the onboard interface. However motor timing and sensored only mode must be accessed by a Hotwire.
If you are trying to maximize the RS or any other current Tekin esc you should pick up a Hotwire.
If you are trying to maximize the RS or any other current Tekin esc you should pick up a Hotwire.
Also, any news when the new software release will be available?
08-28-2008, 10:19 AM
#865
To answer the first question: YES Right now running the motor with full mechanical timing and in SENSORED ONLY mode you will get about 39 degrees of timing depending on the motor.
In Hybrid mode you will get about 30 degrees of timing regardless of the motor timing. We aren't using the sensors for motor timing once we're rolling in Hybrid mode. This is why you will get a smoother throttle feel in hybrid mode.
In Hybrid mode you will get about 30 degrees of timing regardless of the motor timing. We aren't using the sensors for motor timing once we're rolling in Hybrid mode. This is why you will get a smoother throttle feel in hybrid mode.
Could you please elaborate on how the timing in hybrid mode works for me? If I understand you correctly when in sensored only mode the speedo timing is not used at all. From the post above it sounds as though the timing is fixed @ 30deg at some point so where does the speedo timing setting factor in and does mechanical timing have any impact?
Mark
08-28-2008, 10:49 AM
#866
Could you please elaborate on how the timing in hybrid mode works for me? If I understand you correctly when in sensored only mode the speedo timing is not used at all. From the post above it sounds as though the timing is fixed @ 30deg at some point so where does the speedo timing setting factor in and does mechanical timing have any impact?
Mark
Mark
There was a lot of discussion on this a few pages back. Here was Randy's answer:
Sorry for any confusion. When in sensorless mode the motor timing adjustment in the Hotwire will be added to the motor timing that is measured during the comutation. So, the timing will become reactive based on the real commutation point of the motor. This is why you will get a very smooth power band using this mode. It's great for mod.
In sensored only mode we use the motor timing only. So if you have your motor turned all the way up, we're simply adding a base figure to it(I'm not sure if I'm allowed to give this figure up).
I hope that clears it up. There will be more adjustments added to the Hotwire regarding timing as well. We're looking at doing a little extra something something to it!
In sensored only mode we use the motor timing only. So if you have your motor turned all the way up, we're simply adding a base figure to it(I'm not sure if I'm allowed to give this figure up).
I hope that clears it up. There will be more adjustments added to the Hotwire regarding timing as well. We're looking at doing a little extra something something to it!
08-28-2008, 05:58 PM
#867
Thanks for reposting the already stated. I know it can be a pain to read all the thread pages, so thank you.
I tend to run dual mode when running the mod motors. For instance I'm running a Tekin Redline 8.5 in my XXXT Cr truck geared 86/22 with motor timing set at 12(right out of the package) and esc timing around 50. I run on a track that can be slippery in certain rounds. The feel of dual mode is much smoother. You don't get that wheel spin that can cause loop outs. If I had more traction I might run sensored only with more timing but I also might drop in a hotter motor.
My 13.5 set up is the opposite(sort of). I run max timing on the motor and the esc in Sensored Only. This gives me max timing. I run one tooth lower then the guys running Lrp's, Novak's, or Orions(old and new). This gives me a little more coming out of the hole and equal top end. Our current layout has a lot of 180s and quick jumps where I like more bottom end. We run 10 minute mains and my motor comes off 170 esc at 3 led's(Rs non Pro), running a Tekin 3400 Power Cell.
I tend to run dual mode when running the mod motors. For instance I'm running a Tekin Redline 8.5 in my XXXT Cr truck geared 86/22 with motor timing set at 12(right out of the package) and esc timing around 50. I run on a track that can be slippery in certain rounds. The feel of dual mode is much smoother. You don't get that wheel spin that can cause loop outs. If I had more traction I might run sensored only with more timing but I also might drop in a hotter motor.
My 13.5 set up is the opposite(sort of). I run max timing on the motor and the esc in Sensored Only. This gives me max timing. I run one tooth lower then the guys running Lrp's, Novak's, or Orions(old and new). This gives me a little more coming out of the hole and equal top end. Our current layout has a lot of 180s and quick jumps where I like more bottom end. We run 10 minute mains and my motor comes off 170 esc at 3 led's(Rs non Pro), running a Tekin 3400 Power Cell.
08-28-2008, 06:04 PM
#868
I'm running a LRP 13.5T with my RS in the default Hybrid mode. The motor timing is at it's default and the ESC timing is set to 80. I'm allready running a tooth or 2 lower then the Novak guys (LHS has a very limited pinion selection). Last I temped it it was coming in around 160 to 165. Would you reccomend trying the ESC in sensored only mode and cranking up the timing on the motor?
08-29-2008, 01:42 AM
#870
Just to check, when in brake/reverse mode, full brake is all LEDs blinking, and full reverse is just all LEDS on solid?
cheers!
cheers!