Tekin RS ESC sensored
#5222
Mike, I too would like to know what motor you have. So far the braking issues has shown a pattern of non Tekin motors being a contributing factor. We should work equally well esc to esc so we're still looking at the braking on large tracks.
#5223
#5224
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
Hi Randy
Mike is running a RS PRO with TEKIN 10.5.
I do know of another racer that has pulled his RS PRO (he is also using Tekin 10.5) and replaced it with a hobbywing just to get some brakes back.
I am running the RS and 17.5 combo and notice the same issue, not as much due to the lower speed.
We are taking HIGH speed here. The track is very larger outdoor. They run 1/5 and 1/8 IC on it.
Trying to pull the car up at the end of the high speed sections is a bit of a challenge. You need to brake very early and quiet often hit from behind by guys who are using a later braking point, or brake off the idea racing line. Initially there are very little brakes, as the car slow they get stronger to the point of been too strong. So slow speed area they are OK.
All the usual have been checked. Have the same reports from 4 different racers using different cars, radios and setup.
A test is to get a TC with a 10.5, use 198, gear to around 4.8. Go to the parking lot and do some high speed runs (150+ feet) and use FULL brakes to pull the car up. If possible compare to another speedy and you will see the lack of initial brakes. As it gets to the end of the stop it will start to lock the wheels.
Mike is running a RS PRO with TEKIN 10.5.
I do know of another racer that has pulled his RS PRO (he is also using Tekin 10.5) and replaced it with a hobbywing just to get some brakes back.
I am running the RS and 17.5 combo and notice the same issue, not as much due to the lower speed.
We are taking HIGH speed here. The track is very larger outdoor. They run 1/5 and 1/8 IC on it.
Trying to pull the car up at the end of the high speed sections is a bit of a challenge. You need to brake very early and quiet often hit from behind by guys who are using a later braking point, or brake off the idea racing line. Initially there are very little brakes, as the car slow they get stronger to the point of been too strong. So slow speed area they are OK.
All the usual have been checked. Have the same reports from 4 different racers using different cars, radios and setup.
A test is to get a TC with a 10.5, use 198, gear to around 4.8. Go to the parking lot and do some high speed runs (150+ feet) and use FULL brakes to pull the car up. If possible compare to another speedy and you will see the lack of initial brakes. As it gets to the end of the stop it will start to lock the wheels.
#5225
I'm running an RS with a Tekin 8.5 in a slash with the brakes set at 100% and the brakes physically are much less than desirable. They really feel like they are closer to 50%.
I've got a RS with a Novak Three Eighty motor in a recoil and the car is ballistic but, at high speed the brakes are nearly non-existent. It takes at least twice as long to slow down than it does to accelerate to top speed. At low speed however, the brakes are great.
My touring car, 1/10 pan, 1/12th, and 4X4 buggy, I run RS with Trinity Duos (10.5, 13.5, 17.5, 21.5) and they all brake great.
All of the ESCs are set with the most current software.
I don't use a lot of brakes in the cars that I race but, it would be nice if there was much more brake included and we could just dial it out ourselves.
I've got a RS with a Novak Three Eighty motor in a recoil and the car is ballistic but, at high speed the brakes are nearly non-existent. It takes at least twice as long to slow down than it does to accelerate to top speed. At low speed however, the brakes are great.
My touring car, 1/10 pan, 1/12th, and 4X4 buggy, I run RS with Trinity Duos (10.5, 13.5, 17.5, 21.5) and they all brake great.
All of the ESCs are set with the most current software.
I don't use a lot of brakes in the cars that I race but, it would be nice if there was much more brake included and we could just dial it out ourselves.
#5227
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I found that the cars are easier to control with a linear trigger, but if the tracks grip is mad like and fast flowing, a quicker dip into the throttle with a more aggressive profile may be just what is needed. If traction is low, stick with profile 3 and/or no exponential.
#5228
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
All it does it increase the rate at which throttle in applied. So on profile 3, 1/2 throttle = 50% throttle on the speedo, but on profile 4, 1/2 throttle is like 60%, and profile 5, 1/2 throttle will get you 70% throttle. These aren't real exact figures, just trying to explain how the profiles work. Most radio's also have this feature, called exponential I think.
I found that the cars are easier to control with a linear trigger, but if the tracks grip is mad like and fast flowing, a quicker dip into the throttle with a more aggressive profile may be just what is needed. If traction is low, stick with profile 3 and/or no exponential.
I found that the cars are easier to control with a linear trigger, but if the tracks grip is mad like and fast flowing, a quicker dip into the throttle with a more aggressive profile may be just what is needed. If traction is low, stick with profile 3 and/or no exponential.
#5229
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tween a Rock & a Hard Place in Pa.
Posts: 1,279
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I let another racer set mine up once and he put a small amount(like 10) of push in the speedo- I found that I now had no brakes- I took it out the next round and had brakes again- so -- some may find that to be their problem-- it was mine- motor was lrp at the time.
#5230
I am running on the same track as Mike and Gareth with the RS and I don't feel it is motor dependant. It is only happening at the end of the very long straights and not on mid or short length straight areas.
It is almost like brake fade in a real car where there is nothing until it gets down to a slower speed and then they come on. I tended to drive around it by just carrying more corner speed and different line into those corners, not ideal but avoids cars punting you from behind.
Just as a note I have also tried the below motors with the same results
Tekin 17.5 Redline
Orion Vortex 08 17.5 - With largest tuning rotor, no difference
Trinity DUO 17.5
All motors were run V198 software with 30 Boost on speedy and 0 motor timing. All motors were coming off at the end of 5 minute run at 140-150 degrees farenheight. Also push was set to off, I know of this feature as I used to use it a lot on the FX pro with brushed
It is almost like brake fade in a real car where there is nothing until it gets down to a slower speed and then they come on. I tended to drive around it by just carrying more corner speed and different line into those corners, not ideal but avoids cars punting you from behind.
Just as a note I have also tried the below motors with the same results
Tekin 17.5 Redline
Orion Vortex 08 17.5 - With largest tuning rotor, no difference
Trinity DUO 17.5
All motors were run V198 software with 30 Boost on speedy and 0 motor timing. All motors were coming off at the end of 5 minute run at 140-150 degrees farenheight. Also push was set to off, I know of this feature as I used to use it a lot on the FX pro with brushed
#5231
mabe some drag brake will help? i knwo that raises temps but it may help brake some if you have drag brake and manual brake applied some
Alex
Alex
#5232
try butting some timing on the motor and drop a little on the speedi
My mate had a similar problem yesterday but had 14or more on the motor and 20 boost
drop the motor timing a tad and the it was fine
My mate had a similar problem yesterday but had 14or more on the motor and 20 boost
drop the motor timing a tad and the it was fine
#5233
running my 21.5 novak and exponental on my Spektrum at 125% and 100% on speedo my car damn near endos(rear tires come off the ground almost) if i slam on the brakes at full speed....
Alex
Alex
#5234
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I am running on the same track as Mike and Gareth with the RS and I don't feel it is motor dependant. It is only happening at the end of the very long straights and not on mid or short length straight areas.
It is almost like brake fade in a real car where there is nothing until it gets down to a slower speed and then they come on. I tended to drive around it by just carrying more corner speed and different line into those corners, not ideal but avoids cars punting you from behind.
Just as a note I have also tried the below motors with the same results
Tekin 17.5 Redline
Orion Vortex 08 17.5 - With largest tuning rotor, no difference
Trinity DUO 17.5
All motors were run V198 software with 30 Boost on speedy and 0 motor timing. All motors were coming off at the end of 5 minute run at 140-150 degrees farenheight. Also push was set to off, I know of this feature as I used to use it a lot on the FX pro with brushed
It is almost like brake fade in a real car where there is nothing until it gets down to a slower speed and then they come on. I tended to drive around it by just carrying more corner speed and different line into those corners, not ideal but avoids cars punting you from behind.
Just as a note I have also tried the below motors with the same results
Tekin 17.5 Redline
Orion Vortex 08 17.5 - With largest tuning rotor, no difference
Trinity DUO 17.5
All motors were run V198 software with 30 Boost on speedy and 0 motor timing. All motors were coming off at the end of 5 minute run at 140-150 degrees farenheight. Also push was set to off, I know of this feature as I used to use it a lot on the FX pro with brushed
It has nothing to do with non-Tekin motors.
Its a hi speed braking issue with the Tekin RS ESC pure and simple.
(2) I have shelved my Tekin RS Pro until a fix is found.
I purchased a Hobbywing Xerun 60A and am using it with the Tekin 10.5T BL and the ** BRAKING IS FINE **. The Xerun with LCD programming box is half the price of a Tekin RS Pro with Hotwire. The Xerun ESC and PC software perform excellently.
Cheers
#5235
Justin