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Old 07-25-2009, 02:24 PM
  #5221  
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Randy- Are you running the TOPGUN race at Norcal? I'm locked in for that race. Sounds like it's going to be a fun one
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Old 07-25-2009, 02:59 PM
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Mike, I too would like to know what motor you have. So far the braking issues has shown a pattern of non Tekin motors being a contributing factor. We should work equally well esc to esc so we're still looking at the braking on large tracks.
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Randy- Are you running the TOPGUN race at Norcal? I'm locked in for that race. Sounds like it's going to be a fun one
So far it looks like it...
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:49 PM
  #5224  
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Hi Randy

Mike is running a RS PRO with TEKIN 10.5.
I do know of another racer that has pulled his RS PRO (he is also using Tekin 10.5) and replaced it with a hobbywing just to get some brakes back.
I am running the RS and 17.5 combo and notice the same issue, not as much due to the lower speed.

We are taking HIGH speed here. The track is very larger outdoor. They run 1/5 and 1/8 IC on it.
Trying to pull the car up at the end of the high speed sections is a bit of a challenge. You need to brake very early and quiet often hit from behind by guys who are using a later braking point, or brake off the idea racing line. Initially there are very little brakes, as the car slow they get stronger to the point of been too strong. So slow speed area they are OK.

All the usual have been checked. Have the same reports from 4 different racers using different cars, radios and setup.

A test is to get a TC with a 10.5, use 198, gear to around 4.8. Go to the parking lot and do some high speed runs (150+ feet) and use FULL brakes to pull the car up. If possible compare to another speedy and you will see the lack of initial brakes. As it gets to the end of the stop it will start to lock the wheels.
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Old 07-25-2009, 04:16 PM
  #5225  
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I'm running an RS with a Tekin 8.5 in a slash with the brakes set at 100% and the brakes physically are much less than desirable. They really feel like they are closer to 50%.

I've got a RS with a Novak Three Eighty motor in a recoil and the car is ballistic but, at high speed the brakes are nearly non-existent. It takes at least twice as long to slow down than it does to accelerate to top speed. At low speed however, the brakes are great.

My touring car, 1/10 pan, 1/12th, and 4X4 buggy, I run RS with Trinity Duos (10.5, 13.5, 17.5, 21.5) and they all brake great.

All of the ESCs are set with the most current software.

I don't use a lot of brakes in the cars that I race but, it would be nice if there was much more brake included and we could just dial it out ourselves.
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:35 PM
  #5226  
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I've only ran throttle profile 3 on my 17.5 combo. Is there a big difference with going up to throttle profile 4 and 5? I know that profile 3 is a linear powerband ... is 4 and 5 more torque for infield punch?
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:45 PM
  #5227  
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Originally Posted by home13oy75
I've only ran throttle profile 3 on my 17.5 combo. Is there a big difference with going up to throttle profile 4 and 5? I know that profile 3 is a linear powerband ... is 4 and 5 more torque for infield punch?
All it does it increase the rate at which throttle in applied. So on profile 3, 1/2 throttle = 50% throttle on the speedo, but on profile 4, 1/2 throttle is like 60%, and profile 5, 1/2 throttle will get you 70% throttle. These aren't real exact figures, just trying to explain how the profiles work. Most radio's also have this feature, called exponential I think.

I found that the cars are easier to control with a linear trigger, but if the tracks grip is mad like and fast flowing, a quicker dip into the throttle with a more aggressive profile may be just what is needed. If traction is low, stick with profile 3 and/or no exponential.
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kn7671
All it does it increase the rate at which throttle in applied. So on profile 3, 1/2 throttle = 50% throttle on the speedo, but on profile 4, 1/2 throttle is like 60%, and profile 5, 1/2 throttle will get you 70% throttle. These aren't real exact figures, just trying to explain how the profiles work. Most radio's also have this feature, called exponential I think.

I found that the cars are easier to control with a linear trigger, but if the tracks grip is mad like and fast flowing, a quicker dip into the throttle with a more aggressive profile may be just what is needed. If traction is low, stick with profile 3 and/or no exponential.
Thanks for the explanation.
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:52 PM
  #5229  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
Mike, I too would like to know what motor you have. So far the braking issues has shown a pattern of non Tekin motors being a contributing factor. We should work equally well esc to esc so we're still looking at the braking on large tracks.
I let another racer set mine up once and he put a small amount(like 10) of push in the speedo- I found that I now had no brakes- I took it out the next round and had brakes again- so -- some may find that to be their problem-- it was mine- motor was lrp at the time.
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:48 PM
  #5230  
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I am running on the same track as Mike and Gareth with the RS and I don't feel it is motor dependant. It is only happening at the end of the very long straights and not on mid or short length straight areas.

It is almost like brake fade in a real car where there is nothing until it gets down to a slower speed and then they come on. I tended to drive around it by just carrying more corner speed and different line into those corners, not ideal but avoids cars punting you from behind.

Just as a note I have also tried the below motors with the same results

Tekin 17.5 Redline
Orion Vortex 08 17.5 - With largest tuning rotor, no difference
Trinity DUO 17.5

All motors were run V198 software with 30 Boost on speedy and 0 motor timing. All motors were coming off at the end of 5 minute run at 140-150 degrees farenheight. Also push was set to off, I know of this feature as I used to use it a lot on the FX pro with brushed
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:05 PM
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mabe some drag brake will help? i knwo that raises temps but it may help brake some if you have drag brake and manual brake applied some

Alex
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:17 PM
  #5232  
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try butting some timing on the motor and drop a little on the speedi


My mate had a similar problem yesterday but had 14or more on the motor and 20 boost

drop the motor timing a tad and the it was fine
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:24 PM
  #5233  
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running my 21.5 novak and exponental on my Spektrum at 125% and 100% on speedo my car damn near endos(rear tires come off the ground almost) if i slam on the brakes at full speed....

Alex
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:35 PM
  #5234  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
Mike, I too would like to know what motor you have. So far the braking issues has shown a pattern of non Tekin motors being a contributing factor. We should work equally well esc to esc so we're still looking at the braking on large tracks.
Originally Posted by B4james
I am running on the same track as Mike and Gareth with the RS and I don't feel it is motor dependant. It is only happening at the end of the very long straights and not on mid or short length straight areas.

It is almost like brake fade in a real car where there is nothing until it gets down to a slower speed and then they come on. I tended to drive around it by just carrying more corner speed and different line into those corners, not ideal but avoids cars punting you from behind.

Just as a note I have also tried the below motors with the same results

Tekin 17.5 Redline
Orion Vortex 08 17.5 - With largest tuning rotor, no difference
Trinity DUO 17.5

All motors were run V198 software with 30 Boost on speedy and 0 motor timing. All motors were coming off at the end of 5 minute run at 140-150 degrees farenheight. Also push was set to off, I know of this feature as I used to use it a lot on the FX pro with brushed
Originally Posted by hound_dogs_01
mabe some drag brake will help? i knwo that raises temps but it may help brake some if you have drag brake and manual brake applied some

Alex
(1) This issue has been done to death many pages back in the forum.
It has nothing to do with non-Tekin motors.
Its a hi speed braking issue with the Tekin RS ESC pure and simple.

(2) I have shelved my Tekin RS Pro until a fix is found.
I purchased a Hobbywing Xerun 60A and am using it with the Tekin 10.5T BL and the ** BRAKING IS FINE **. The Xerun with LCD programming box is half the price of a Tekin RS Pro with Hotwire. The Xerun ESC and PC software perform excellently.

Cheers
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:31 PM
  #5235  
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Originally Posted by mikecatts
Hi all..
Any luck with the "high speed" braking yet?
Still aint got no brakes at the end of the high speed straight...plenty of low speed brakes...Its still very frustrating to race with...
Any one?
mike, i am not trying to sound mean so dont take it as that but we just had a guy on here a few pgs back that after 3 pages we found out that it was user error. now a lot of us on here arent having probs with high speed braking. the question i have is what radio are you using maybe that is the way we all can try and help you out with it. i ran the rs in offroad and onroad with novak and tekin motors. the novak 10.5 has the rotor in it 13.5 does not. with those motors and running against my tekins there was no difference in the braking. i am just trying to put this out here so that maybe someone will chime in and we can all try to work with you to get it right. it really sounds like your radio settings may be the culprit. hope you understand i am not ripping on you just trying to help.
Justin
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